All convection involves motion by definition. There is no such thing as convection without moving air.

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=convection

The act or process of conveying; transmission.

Physics.

1. Heat transfer in a gas or liquid by the circulation of currents from one region to another.
2. Fluid motion caused by an external force such as gravity.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convection

Free and forced convection

In heat transfer, a distinction is made between free and forced convection.

Free convection is convection in which motion of the fluid arises solely due to the temperature differences existing within the fluid. Example: hot air rising off the surface of a radiator.

Forced convection happens when motion of the fluid is imposed externally (such as by a pump or fan).



It is true that Newton's equations for heat transfer state that air speed should not matter. I should have stated that in practical terms, above a certain point installing more fan throughput won't help, not that it would retard convection. My error.

 

Off of the JL website:

"Amplifier mounted horizontally, but upside down: Fair (not recommended if there is less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) clearance above the amplifier heat sinks)

 

1) The JL amp has an auto turn-on feature that senses the presence of audio at the input so you don't need a separate turn-on lead.

2) You need a set of RCAs that you can take apart and solder. Most high-end RCAs are this way, or you can buy just the RCA connectors at a place like Radio Shack that are ready for soldering.

3) I believe I'm at -12 dB/dec, ~120 Hz low-pass frequency, infrasonic filter off, input voltage low, signal sensing on, ~1/3 of the way up on input sensitivity.

4) Teal and Purple for Real Left + and -, Blue and Pink for Rear Right + and -.

5) If I Recall Correctly

 

It's probably okay, though I'd argue it's not much better than my mounting location, especially since you are mounting it on top of existing hot electronics.

Pretty much. I ran it along the edge of the door sill and up under the rear seats and through the plastic jack holder. With the car on, I get no dimming of any interior lights when the bass is all the way up. However with the engine off, I do get a little flickering.

 

I noticed that in the manual, and I've got more than one inch above the heatsinks, but it's still trapped in a cavity. Oh well, we shall see.

 

IIRC you are NOT suppose to route the ground and power on the same side or else you get interference (static) or do I have that confused with RCA and power?

Also can you still use your cargo net?

Either way you have inspired me to install a sub in my trunk since I will not lose trunk space.

 

Its RCA and Power, the Ground should only be less than a foot long, it doesn't run all the way back up to the battery

 

I think some people ground to the battery...why? f**k if i know...its easier to just ground to the trunk...

MechEE:
Isnt the bass too much at that freq? I find it fighting (and winning) with the 6x9's at that point...then again I got a 500/1 and 10w6v2 so that might be why...

 

Ah, but with differential signaling it's not much of an issue as long as the signals are routed together. Cross-talk from power lines will be common to both signal lines and will get subtracted right out. I can still use the cargo net, but it's pinched together on the subwoofer side.

It's a tough call, depends on the sound you want I guess. I could stand to drop it down a bit. I had it down around 80 Hz and it seemed like there was a bit of a gap in the response, so I moved it up. I'm sure I'll tweak it little by little as time goes on, but this was a good starting point. The only real pain with my setup is that I need to pull the box out to adjust the amp. Luckily the box pulls out in 10 seconds.

 

What do you put the the bass and treble settings at on the HU?

 

I move it around a little depending on the music. I adjusted the amp so that I have a good range of bass adjustment on the headunit, so it usually stays around 0. The treble is generally at +2 or so.

 

This made me think, the 250/1 amp doesnt have a optional sub volume control?

 

Nope, no remote sub control option on the 250/1.

In other news, I just got back from two 4 hour trips in the car with no overheating problems with the amp.

 

wow...my 500/1 gets kinda hot after about ~35 min or so of use. Luckily its got plenty of breathing room

 

Or you could probably make a a few simple L brackets and mount it right side up also?