DIY : Possible creaking seat fix
#31
Thanks Dave. I didn't have the seat squeak but had a slight movement that has developed over the past few months. It seems to be since I put a couple of washers under the 14mm bolt that retains the right rear in order to level the seat. From the factory these seats have a terrible cant to the right that makes the right leg/hip seat control thing even worse.
This Dave TSB seems to have tightened up my seat so much better.
This Dave TSB seems to have tightened up my seat so much better.
#32
Originally Posted by rockd
this fix worked at first, but then the creak/squeak came back. tried it again numerous times, but it's still there... i'm going nuts, seriously...
I fix it (adjust nuts) and it goes away for 2weeks. Then one day starts out of the blue. Fix it again, goes away for 2weeks and comes back.
Very frustrating. I'm going to try putting washers underneath the nuts and seeing what happens.
#33
Is there a fix for the other side of the seat? I have a RHD coupe, so I am not sure if the seats have been 'reversed', but going by your photo, that bracket is on the right hand side (closest to the door). My creak is coming from the left side of the seat (closest to centre console) but I just had a look and its a real pain to get to, and the bracket is different on that side.
Any ideas? Its basically slight movement which seems to be coming from the rear left of the seat, whenever I brake suddenly or accelerate suddenly. Sounds like a creak/pop/whatever. Any suggestions?
Any ideas? Its basically slight movement which seems to be coming from the rear left of the seat, whenever I brake suddenly or accelerate suddenly. Sounds like a creak/pop/whatever. Any suggestions?
#34
#35
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Originally Posted by sark6871
I must be dense, but I can't make heads or tails out of that picture. Where are those bolts located? Do I slide the seat all the way forward or all the way back? For the life of me I don't know what screws to take out to get to those bolts.
My driver seat is squeaking like mad, annoying.
My driver seat is squeaking like mad, annoying.
#36
#37
excellent thread
DaveB - You are a god to me. This creaking noise was driving me crazy and now it's like i have a new car. I took my drivers seat out no less than three times to find the source and i can say this is the last place i would have considered to be the source.
While I had the seat out i went ahead and put a piece of rubber (old bicycle tube) between the seat supports AND the nuts and haven't heard the squeek since (Knock on wood).
Like others my seat was also rocking which I didn't realize was so annoying until i fixed it. while i had the seat out i noticed a bolt on the right side's cross brace was missing completely. I put a new one in and the seat is as solid as day one. thanks g35driver and daveb
While I had the seat out i went ahead and put a piece of rubber (old bicycle tube) between the seat supports AND the nuts and haven't heard the squeek since (Knock on wood).
Like others my seat was also rocking which I didn't realize was so annoying until i fixed it. while i had the seat out i noticed a bolt on the right side's cross brace was missing completely. I put a new one in and the seat is as solid as day one. thanks g35driver and daveb
#39
thanks for the pics...I haven't noticed anything like that on mine. Are you going to fix it?
Since my last post in this thread the creaking noise came back..with a vengence. I figured I just needed to tighten some bolts but after that the noise was even worse. Finally, extremely frustrated, I took a 2x4, cut it to the width of the bottom of my seat, placed it under the rear of the seat and lowered it until I heard a nice 'wood against metal' crunching noise. That, going on 4 weeks so far, has been the only, i repeat: ONLY, sure-fire fix for this ANNOYING problem. Best part is the 2x4 slides with the seat when you move it so it doesn't fall out or anything. Also, if you're tall/short just cut the 2x4 until you find the right height.
For those of you that are at your wits end with this problem, give it a shot.
Since my last post in this thread the creaking noise came back..with a vengence. I figured I just needed to tighten some bolts but after that the noise was even worse. Finally, extremely frustrated, I took a 2x4, cut it to the width of the bottom of my seat, placed it under the rear of the seat and lowered it until I heard a nice 'wood against metal' crunching noise. That, going on 4 weeks so far, has been the only, i repeat: ONLY, sure-fire fix for this ANNOYING problem. Best part is the 2x4 slides with the seat when you move it so it doesn't fall out or anything. Also, if you're tall/short just cut the 2x4 until you find the right height.
For those of you that are at your wits end with this problem, give it a shot.
#40
thanks for the pics...I haven't noticed anything like that on mine. Are you going to fix it?
Since my last post in this thread the creaking noise came back..with a vengence. I figured I just needed to tighten some bolts but after that the noise was even worse. Finally, extremely frustrated, I took a 2x4, cut it to the width of the bottom of my seat, placed it under the rear of the seat and lowered it until I heard a nice 'wood against metal' crunching noise. That, going on 4 weeks so far, has been the only, i repeat: ONLY, sure-fire fix for this ANNOYING problem. Best part is the 2x4 slides with the seat when you move it so it doesn't fall out or anything. Also, if you're tall/short just cut the 2x4 until you find the right height.
For those of you that are at your wits end with this problem, give it a shot.
Since my last post in this thread the creaking noise came back..with a vengence. I figured I just needed to tighten some bolts but after that the noise was even worse. Finally, extremely frustrated, I took a 2x4, cut it to the width of the bottom of my seat, placed it under the rear of the seat and lowered it until I heard a nice 'wood against metal' crunching noise. That, going on 4 weeks so far, has been the only, i repeat: ONLY, sure-fire fix for this ANNOYING problem. Best part is the 2x4 slides with the seat when you move it so it doesn't fall out or anything. Also, if you're tall/short just cut the 2x4 until you find the right height.
For those of you that are at your wits end with this problem, give it a shot.
Love to see how you put the wood in there, can you still lower the seat to it's lowest height? Not a bad idea at all, I can see putting something there at the very least until I replace the risers. Pretty annoying tilting back every time you push the pedal hard at all. I thought about running a metal strap around the front bar to base for now just to keep it level.
That's the irony of mine breaking, 99% of its life I have the seat height and seat tilt all the way down, rarely use the tilt and never used the height adjustment. I'm only 5'11" so it's not for any reason other than that's where I like my seat. My 350Z's seat cushion top sat almost 3" closer to the pavement, it's all the tilt and height crap in the G that forces the seat higher than it needs to be. High enough that my head with a helmet hits the roof next to the sunroof. Probably a good thing, so I don't track it, I have my SE-R's for that.
#42
Ordered my parts to replace the lifter assemblies
Ordered my parts this week from a dealer in Peoria, IL for half the cost my local dealer quoted to me. The front and rear lifters have to be replaced. This is on a 2004 Coupe, the 2003 is different. $140 shipped with the new tape ($8 splurge since it does cover the switches).
Thankfully engine removal is not required, but it seems like pretty much everything else
Here's the front page of the TSB. In my case the front lifter is broken. The TSB artfully dodges the question of what exactly constitutes failure but in this case I am pretty sure I need to replace that part...
I'll post some pics when I take it apart and put it back together later this next month. Nothing too complex, just a lot of work. I can see why they quoted 4 hours for the job, but that does not mean I am willing to pay $110-120/hr for someone to do it.
As usual the allowable warranty hours are a joke, I'd like to see someone do that TSB in less than 2 hours. The Warranty Claim allows 1.7 hours for the Coupe to replace BOTH front and rear lifters. Sure...
Thankfully engine removal is not required, but it seems like pretty much everything else
Here's the front page of the TSB. In my case the front lifter is broken. The TSB artfully dodges the question of what exactly constitutes failure but in this case I am pretty sure I need to replace that part...
I'll post some pics when I take it apart and put it back together later this next month. Nothing too complex, just a lot of work. I can see why they quoted 4 hours for the job, but that does not mean I am willing to pay $110-120/hr for someone to do it.
As usual the allowable warranty hours are a joke, I'd like to see someone do that TSB in less than 2 hours. The Warranty Claim allows 1.7 hours for the Coupe to replace BOTH front and rear lifters. Sure...
#44
Just a thought but has anyone tried using Loctite to keep the bolts from loosening up? The risky part is that it doesn't work and the Loctite doesn't want to let the bolt loosen up. I'd try 262 RED Loctite, its the color used for when rework may be needed... blue loctite doesn't like to let go. I'd only try this if you find that the bolts are loosening up over and over