Anyone looking for help or a full assitance on this that is near me feel free to PM me. If not just post on here and I'll help with what I can.

This write-up is in work and will have photos and a step by step of how to do it.


NOTE: All items listed below may be substituted for a similar item and still function. I've posted links to make it easier on you to see some options available to you to make it a quicker and easier process.


ITEMS NEEDED:

2 EA Front Brembo Calipers (RH + LH)

2 EA Rear Brembo Calipers (RH + LH)

4 EA Brembo Rotors (FR + FL + RR +RL) $408.00 + Shipping

1 EA Brake Pad Set $75.00 + Shipping

4 EA Rear Caliper Mount Bolts $13.12 + Shipping

2 EA DOT 3 $8.58 + Shipping or 2 EA DOT 4 Brake Fluid $38.00 + Shipping

8 EA Speed Bleeders $79.04 + Shipping (Optional but HIGHLY recommended.)


POSSIBLE ITEMS NEEDED: (Should not need these for OEM wheels but possibly needed for aftermarket wheels to clear calipers.)

4 EA Wheel Spacers $60.00 + Shipping

20 EA Nismo 60mm Wheel Studs $136.00 + Shipping

20 EA Open Lugs $24.00 + Shipping

OPTIONAL ITEMS:

The dust shields below are from courtesy parts, they have been fit tested and fit great.

1 x [44020] PLATE ASSY-BACK,REAR BRAKE RH - 350Z (Z33) 2005 Coupeoupe (! 35th), 2003-2005 Coupe.M/T (! Track), 2004 Coupeoupe (! Bre (44020-Z33002) = $71.67

1 x [44030] PLATE ASSY-BACK,REAR BRAKE LH - 350Z (Z33) 2005 Coupeoupe (! 35th), 2003-2005 Coupe.M/T (! Track), 2004 Coupeoupe (! Bre (44030-Z33002) = $71.67

TOOLS NEEDED:

10mm combo wrench (to break hard brake line)

11mm combo wrench (to bleed calipers)

19mm? socket or wrench (front caliper mount bolts)

12mm combo wrench (brake lines mount bolts)

more to come..


THE SWAP:

Removal-
1. Disconnect Ground From Battery.
2. Jack up vehicle and support on jack stands.
3. Remove all wheels.
4. Remove 2 ea bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket on all 4 corners.
5. Remove old pads.
6. On front remove 2 ea bolts on each side that hold bracket for brake line to suspension, save 1 for later use.
7. On front remove 1 ea nut on each side that hold brake line to shock, save for later use.
8. Set all 4 old calipers aside to be removed later.
9. Remove the caliper mount brackets from spindle on all 4 corners, may take a breaker bar or hammer to free them.
10. Remove all 4 rotors, spray pb blaster near center hub, using a decent size hammer, pound in-between the lugs going from one side to another (this may take some time). You do this until you see rotor pop away from hub. Now pull the rotor off. Note: some rotors have a small threaded hole that you can use a bolt to pop them off. Also, on the rear rotors there is a small rubber plug, remove this with a flathead and save for later use.
11. On rear you need to trim the dust shield lip for fitment of rotors, you can do this many ways, ie.. cut-off wheel, dremel or tin snips.
-The removal portion is done with an exception on the brake lines to hard lines which will be done during installation.

Installation-
1. If you are going to be using a spacer for your aftermarket wheels to clear the front rotors now you will want to remove all of the studs, on the front you will see a 1/2 circle looking cutout for when you pound them out you can pull them free.
2. Now you will install the new ones the reverse way, pull them through and use an open lug to tighten them down to the spindle and lock them in place.
3. Now the new rotors can go on, you will want to also use an open lug to pull the rotor to the spindle (2 lugs will work at opposite sides). You don’t want to torque these down too tight, just enough to pull in the rotor.
4. Install your new pads in your calipers
5. Install the calipers over the rotor and install the 2 ea old mount bolts on each front, and 2 ea new on each rear, if the caliper won't fit over the rotor push on the pads to reset the piston back.
6. Now you will want to install your ss lines starting with the banjo nut, on the head use a marker to mark what way the flow goes through the bolt, and tighten it to the caliper.
7. On the front you can install the mounts for the lines where the old lines were.
8. Now you will want to break free the hard lines from the old rubber ones.
9. Pull out the retainer for the old lines and disconnect the hard line completely.
10. Install the ss line and new retainer and connect hard line.
11. Now you will need to bleed your brakes, i suggest purchasing a one man bleeder kit from the auto parts store. You will bleed in this order according to the FSM, RR, LF, LR, RF and bleed inner valve then outer.
12. To bleed you will connect the bleeder hose to the valve and open it, pump the brakes 4 times slow and steady then check the line for air bubbles. If there is air bubbles pump another 4 times, each time checking your master cylinder making sure it doesn’t go below 1/2 (also make sure to leave cap on). Once there is no air close the valve and remove the line and move onto the next.
13. Install wheels w/ spacers if used and remove from jacks.
14. Reconnect battery and make sure reservoir is topped off.
15. When you first move the car you want to make gentle braking and possibly "bed" the brakes.
16. If your pedal is soft, you most likely have air in the lines again and need to bleed all the calipers again (I had to do this about 4 times before I got a good firm pedal)
17. To bed your brakes use the search function as I'm not sure which way is better and that is up to you.
In work..


THE FINAL PRODUCT:

 

nice just what i was looking for. I have an 04 sedan X and I am interested in doing the same thing. I already have the calipers powerd coated and i have replace the seals and put the pistons in. I also have SS lines waiting to go. Just need rotors and the bolts for the rear. I have a question, instea of cutting the rear dust shield, is it possible to use a rear dust shield from coupe? I dont know if it woulod fit but i am trying to make the cleanest job possible. Also are the rotors you picked any good? i have seen some on ebay that seems ok but i am a little hesitant. any advise?

 

for the heat sheild im trying to see about the same thing of getting one from the brembo setup, it probally will be a pita since im sure all the parking brake stuff and axle hub will need to be removed. the sheilds are about 72 from courtesy parts. i like my rotors and have had no issues, i think z1 says there brembo blanks that they use, i would shy away from ebay rotors, you get what you pay for imo. i will try and get more pics and details up soon.

 

yeah i will lean away from ebay rotors. If you can, can you add a link to the rear dust shield as you did for all the other parts listed?

 

once i see if it will actually work (with less than a couple hours of work) i will post my findings with links.

 

thanks. Also did you use new ss brake lines or where you able to just use the stock rubber brake lines that come with the calipers? I ask because i have these new ss brakes lines but they look different than the stock rubber ones.

 

i used ss lines on all 4 corners, very easy to install, just use a marker to mark the flow on the banjo bolt, not sure if that is necassary but i did it anyways.

 

which bolts are you referring to? Can you use the same caliper bolts from the non brembo?

 

I think he is talking about the rear caliper hook up.

 

that are the bolts that go through the rear spindle into the brembo calipers. there are 2 per side, the front ones you can reuse the old ones.

 

ok so to be clear.. I can reuse front caliper bolts, but I have to buy the rear which is made for a coupe that had brembos.

 

This this setup apply for 07 sedan g35.

 

Are they any step-by-step pics or video?

 

btw, does any one know of a good website to order brakes from that got the cheapest prices and free shipping and no tax.

 

wow seriously.. 3 post within 2 min, there is an edit feature for a reason. not sure about the 07, i know 03-06 should be fine. there may be a post around with step-by-step pics, no videos i know of. ebay is the cheapest, but i wouldnt skimp on a safety device, you get what you pay for.