Brembo replacements
Originally Posted by cturnbull802
i am going to try out the 25 dollar tire rack pads! ftw!
They also make a grand sport version, havent tried those as I am very happy with the $25 pads for daily driving and track days
Originally Posted by MAZyar
OK, will have the rotors recut then if needed, cool.
As for pads, top choices are oem brembos vs project mu (for about half the price.) As for as performance, are the project mu's then as good as the brembos when it comes to stopping power??? Someone said better than stock, but I wanna know if they're better than the oem Brembos since that's what I had and might get again.
Thanks again.
As for pads, top choices are oem brembos vs project mu (for about half the price.) As for as performance, are the project mu's then as good as the brembos when it comes to stopping power??? Someone said better than stock, but I wanna know if they're better than the oem Brembos since that's what I had and might get again.
Thanks again.
I dont know much about project Mu pads, but if they are a track pad, they wont work as well on the street until they are up to temp. Something to think about.
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.
We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.
After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.
We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.
After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.
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Derek, thank you so much for such great instructions, very cool.
1. I ended up ordering the mu B-force pads and will give a review once I get it and drive it for a few weeks.
2. Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
3. Also, does it matter if I have cut the rotors or not?
4. What would happend if I just drive the thing and not bed the brake pads in?
Thanks again.
1. I ended up ordering the mu B-force pads and will give a review once I get it and drive it for a few weeks.
2. Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
3. Also, does it matter if I have cut the rotors or not?
4. What would happend if I just drive the thing and not bed the brake pads in?
Thanks again.
Last edited by MAZyar; Jan 31, 2007 at 12:54 PM.
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On second thought, I'll just cut all my rotors regardless of if they need it or not... Since this is my first brake pad change (27K), I should have plenty of rotor left. Also, Next brake change, I will change my rotors regardless (to drilled/slotted), so I don't care if I cut the rotors this time.
I just hope that putting brand new pads on a newly cut rotor will be fine (since the new pad surface will be a bit uneven and rough). I think I'm now thinking too much about this...
I just hope that putting brand new pads on a newly cut rotor will be fine (since the new pad surface will be a bit uneven and rough). I think I'm now thinking too much about this...
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Originally Posted by MAZyar
anyplace you guys recommend in san diego?
If you can wait, importrp.com in WA state has really good prices on Axxis pads and Brembo rotors.
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Cool. I'll defenitly wear them in then, thanks again for your help.
Just so that I'm correct on this, is the below correct?
Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
Thanks again guys/gals, great help and advice
Just so that I'm correct on this, is the below correct?
Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
Thanks again guys/gals, great help and advice
info is correct I copied it straight from stoptech,
Originally Posted by MAZyar
Cool. I'll defenitly wear them in then, thanks again for your help.
Just so that I'm correct on this, is the below correct?
Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
Thanks again guys/gals, great help and advice
Just so that I'm correct on this, is the below correct?
Just so that I understand, I have to drive to 60mph, partial brake (80-90% brake force just before the threshold of ABS), come to ~10mph, then accelerate to 60mph, brake again to 10mph, and back to 60, do this 10 times back to back. I then cool the brakes / rotors with a 30 min waiting interval, then do the acceleration/braking from 60-10mph 10 more times and then I should be set. Is the above correct?
Thanks again guys/gals, great help and advice
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A little update.
I got my project MU pads and they work great. Great stop action, little dust.
I ended up cutting my front rotors, but not the back ones. I'm still kicking myself for letting the mechanic talk me out of cutting the back ones as well.
I have horroundous screaching sound ALL the time when I stop (I think mostly from the rear. Its horrible. Not sure what I can do to make it stop.
I did the break-in thing as instructed when I first got the breaks and was hoping it'll do the trick, but I have the screech.
Any advice? Are those break grease things any good?
Thanks,
Maz
I got my project MU pads and they work great. Great stop action, little dust.
I ended up cutting my front rotors, but not the back ones. I'm still kicking myself for letting the mechanic talk me out of cutting the back ones as well.
I have horroundous screaching sound ALL the time when I stop (I think mostly from the rear. Its horrible. Not sure what I can do to make it stop.
I did the break-in thing as instructed when I first got the breaks and was hoping it'll do the trick, but I have the screech.
Any advice? Are those break grease things any good?
Thanks,
Maz
I just turned all four of my OEM Brembo rotors with no problem. They appear to have more heft than my sedan's OEM rotors.
As long as there is enough material so that the thickness doesn't exceed the minimum thickness, turning them will be fine. The minimum thickness measurement is what's important. The shop (Pep Boys) won't turn them if they are too thin.
As long as there is enough material so that the thickness doesn't exceed the minimum thickness, turning them will be fine. The minimum thickness measurement is what's important. The shop (Pep Boys) won't turn them if they are too thin.