I'll be buying some rotors soon... but I got to thinking, this sounds like an easy job I can do myself.
I have stock brakes and am looking into some cross drilled/slotted rotors.
Is this as easy as removing the wheel and caliper and slappin' 'em in?
Thanks!

 

yes, it's easy took me about 3 hours to do all 4 rotors and pads. There's a DIY somewhere on this forum.

One thing I would recommend is that you get a torque wrench, you should tighten the caliper bolts and lug nuts to spec to prevent warping.

 

Pretty much....yes.

I just got through installing mine and also had my calipers powdercoated at the same time.

To change out the rotor, you just have to remove two bolts per caliper and move it out of the way. You need a breaker bar w/ 22mm socket front and 19mm socket rear.

Take a rubber mallet and tap the old rotor if it is rusted to the hub, and take it off.

Take a wire brush and clean the hub thoroughly and put some grease or anti-sieze on it.

Slide the new rotors on and reinstall the calipers. Torque down the bolts, put wheels back on, and you are done.

 

I installed my rotors about a month ago. The calipers are easy if you have a torque wrench. The rear rotors are what gave me the most problems. The where pretty rusted on there. I had to bang the top of the "hat" (between the studs) instead of the usual braking surface of the rotors recommeded on the DIY.

 

Rotors are simple. You may want to take a look at teh OE bidg brake kits from RACINGBRAKE, as well. They also offer high quality replacment rotors as well. We did teh OE big brake kit on my 04, and even with trimming the rear dust shields it only took about 3 hours.

 

Anyone recall the torque specs[or just really tight?]? Thanks for all your input!

 

LOL j/k

I think this has some helpful info in it. . .

*click me!*



The torq's may be different if you have the newer larger rotors/calipers (2005+?) I don't know tho. . .I'm an o.g. owner.

 

 

Heres a tip that helped me out on the rear . After banging the **** out of the center, top,side everywhere you could think of the rotor for a good 45 min and it not moving I decided to get a towell fold it a couple of times and hit it from the back and it came right out. I thought that banging it for so long did the trick but nope did the passanger side and banged it from the back and it came out on the first shot.

 

...but what the "secret" to removing the Rear Brake Rotor?
There is one spot where the Rotor Shield exposes the back of Rotor.
Is this the spot to "hit it"?

 

I Will Also Be Doing Mine Soon. I Am Looking At Hawk Pads. Anyone Recommend Non-brembo Cross Drilled And/or Slotted Rotors? Powerslot, Stillen, Etc. I Can Not Have Anything Big Because Of The Rims I Have.

 

Well, I got this from one of the guys over at MY350Z.

Saturate the Rotor and Studs with PB Blaster.
It just so happens that I have a can lying around so...
off I went to go try this.
It was recommended that everything be saturated overnight.
I just did this and couldn't wait...
In just 5 minutes, one side came loose (with a light tapping with a
rubber mallet). The other side moved a hair. I will wait until
the end of the day to remove it. Worked for me!!

Here it is...
I picked up my can from Lowe's...
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/t...3%20023340.jpg

 

My rear rotors were pretty much fused onto the hub. Tried PB blaster, tap tapping on all sides of the rotor (yes I loosened the E-brake)...nothing worked. I had to get a long 2x4, slide it under the car, prop it against the rotor and beat on it like it owed me money.

 

HOLY CRAP!!

 

I got the Stillen cross-drilled/slotted rotors. I'm using them with Project-mU Type NS pads. Very happy with this combo.