Replaced OEM w/OEM (pads/rotors)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 157
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From: San Mateo, CA
Help Please: Replaced OEM w/OEM (pads/rotors)
Hey guys (and gals),
I need a little help. Last weekend I replaced my Rotors and pads. OEM to OEM. Since then, My brakes have been squealing like mad. Only happens when I lightly touch the brakes while slowing or stopping. It's driving me f'ing nuts! I've driven about 150-200 miles since installing them and figured they should have been bedded in already. Any suggestions as to what I can do?
Thanks in advance.
Dave
I need a little help. Last weekend I replaced my Rotors and pads. OEM to OEM. Since then, My brakes have been squealing like mad. Only happens when I lightly touch the brakes while slowing or stopping. It's driving me f'ing nuts! I've driven about 150-200 miles since installing them and figured they should have been bedded in already. Any suggestions as to what I can do?
Thanks in advance.
Dave
Last edited by MyRedG03.5; Jun 6, 2007 at 05:23 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 5
From: Marietta, Georgia
Did you index [measure the rotor runout and optimize] the rotors to oem specs. Many times the hubs get out of spec and this wobble gets transferred to the rotors when they are bolted to hubs.
250 miles should be enough to bed pads.
250 miles should be enough to bed pads.
Bed your brakes in using the 6-10 stops in a row method.
Hawk's Procedure for Street Pads
Burnishing Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Stoptech's Procedure for Street Performance Pads
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Hawk's Procedure for Street Pads
Burnishing Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Stoptech's Procedure for Street Performance Pads
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
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