I Wnated To Know If My Master Cylinder Is The Same As A Brembo Cars Master Cylinder, Please Help Me, Because My Car Is Not Stopping The Way It Should, Also I Put In The Racing Brake Shims, And, I Dont Know If They Are The Reason Why My Brakes Dont Stop Great,

If You Have Any Feedback Please Let Me Know About Your Experiences.
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You don't need to change your master cylinder if you are upgrading to the brembo's. I had them installed and they are fine, there is slightly more pedal travel before they engage but they perform just as good if not better then the oem for day to day driving. Can you exlaborate what you mean by - "My Car Is Not Stopping The Way It Should"

 

Well The Pedal Travel Is Far, And Its Alittle Spungy.

 

Have you tried bleeding your brakes properly?

I believe you have to 2 bleeder nipple per caliper

You have to pump your brakes and bleed to take out all the air

 

ya sounds like air in the lines

 

I Took It To Infiniti To Bleed Them, But I Want To Know If I Need A Different Master Cylinder, And Also I Want To Know If The Racing Brake Shims Are Making My Pedal Mushy.

 

Also, if you bled the brakes and they're still mushy, it is likely that some air is trapped in some weird places in the complicated calipers, or air may be trapped in the ABS module. To do a complete flush, you need to:

1) Bleed both nipples on each caliper, go from the furthest caliper to the brake fluid reservoir to the closest. Typically this is RR, LR, RF, LF, but on certain older Nissans (Maxima of 2 generations ago, for example) the way the hard line is built the closer wheel may not be the "shorter" line.

2) Unmount each caliper, flip it upside down a couple of times (slowly), then bleed the system again. Hopefully any air trapped in odd places in these fixed calipers will escape and work their way up to the bleeder nipple.

3) If you're still experiencing some mushy-ness, you may have to get the ABS to activate and pump out the air bubble trapped in the ABS pump. Two ways to go about doing this, the right way and the ghetto way. The right way is to hook the car's computer up to a diagnostic machine and get the machine to send a signal to the ABS pump to cycle through while the car's stationary, and the bleeder valve(s) open. Unfortunately, the only people with access to said diagnostic machine (usually costing around $20K) are $tealerships. That means a trip to your local $tealers and pay them to do it. The "ghetto" way is to find a long stretch of empty roads, and drive on it and activate the ABS 5-8 times, then come back and bleed the system again.

If your pedal is still mushy, then you can start pointing fingers at other things in the system. From what I know, typically, shims will create that little "mushy" effect on the brake pedal, but only for the first 1/4" of travel or so. It shouldn't make it so that the pedal is super long and soft, as soon as the shims compress the softness should go away quickly. The RacingBrake shims I've used in the past had very little of that weird "give" at the initial pedal travel, since it's rubber sandwiched between metal.

Last thing I would suggest, is to properly bed in the brakes once you've got all the bleeding and air in the line taken care of. See following article:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

 

how much are oem brembos?

 

Make sure the bleeders aren't installed pointing down. They should be at the very top of the calipers as installed. ie... make sure you didn't install the left caliper on the right and vice versa.

 

what year is your car?

 

2005, But My Questions Is The Master Cylinder Im Using Wrong, Because I Dont Have The One That The 03 04 Brembos Cars Had?

 

^I don't think it is any different. Call the dealer and check on the part numbers. Simple.

 

its not that simple, they say it is diffeerent some say change it to that year, some say leave it alone.

 

do you still have your bronze nismos for trade? also check your brake lines to make sure they are tight

 

You are giving us little bits of information at a time. Have you had the brakes properly bled now and are they working correctly? If not what has the dealer told you?

Who is giving you the advice on the master cylinder?