Can compression rod bushing look OK but actually be bad?
#1
How to remove compression rod?
Hey guys, so I've been sucked into the mysterious world of G35 problems
I'm trying to get rid of the rattling clunking in the suspension on the driver's side, and I just want to see what your experiences were.
I tried replacing the upper control arm and ball joint but that did not help much.
I've bought a compression arm for $300 but I want to make sure that's the problem before I keep throwing money at this pig.
My mechanic said the bushing in the compression rod looked fine, but when I took a look at it myself, it was ripped half way around on the top side.
What a moron. He only looked at the top side.
The question is, is removing the rod as easy as it looks, just undo the nut and ball joint, and slide it off?
THANKS FOR HELPING NOOB HERE
I'm trying to get rid of the rattling clunking in the suspension on the driver's side, and I just want to see what your experiences were.
I tried replacing the upper control arm and ball joint but that did not help much.
I've bought a compression arm for $300 but I want to make sure that's the problem before I keep throwing money at this pig.
My mechanic said the bushing in the compression rod looked fine, but when I took a look at it myself, it was ripped half way around on the top side.
What a moron. He only looked at the top side.
The question is, is removing the rod as easy as it looks, just undo the nut and ball joint, and slide it off?
THANKS FOR HELPING NOOB HERE
Last edited by ericlee303; 02-22-2008 at 09:34 PM.
#2
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Compression rod (Radius rod)
Front
RADIUS ROD
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. CAUTION:
o Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed.
3. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of radius rod with power tool.
4. Remove rear lower link and coil spring.
5. Remove fixing bolt in lower side of shock absorber with power tool.
6. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of front lower link with power tool.
7. Remove fixing bolt in rear suspension member side of radius rod with power tool, then remove radius rod from vehicle.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL
* Check radius rod and bushing for any deformation, crack, or damage. Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION
* Install in the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION: Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
* Perform final tightening of rear suspension member and axle installation position (rubber bushing) under unladen condition with tires on level ground. Check wheel alignment.
Front
RADIUS ROD
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. CAUTION:
o Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed.
3. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of radius rod with power tool.
4. Remove rear lower link and coil spring.
5. Remove fixing bolt in lower side of shock absorber with power tool.
6. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of front lower link with power tool.
7. Remove fixing bolt in rear suspension member side of radius rod with power tool, then remove radius rod from vehicle.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL
* Check radius rod and bushing for any deformation, crack, or damage. Replace if necessary.
INSTALLATION
* Install in the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION: Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
* Perform final tightening of rear suspension member and axle installation position (rubber bushing) under unladen condition with tires on level ground. Check wheel alignment.
Last edited by Scrooge; 02-22-2008 at 10:24 PM.
#3
#5
Just as background info. Infiniti [Q, J, G, M] has always had front suspension components that wear and get replaced due to rubber cracking since 1989. Just a common item every 30-60k..........wear and tear from trying to have excellant handling with a good ride.
Whether they were called upper links, tension rods, or radious rods.
Same with noise, road dirt and water get inside rubber and squeek against metal interface.
Whether they were called upper links, tension rods, or radious rods.
Same with noise, road dirt and water get inside rubber and squeek against metal interface.
#7
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#9
#14
i had the same problem a few months before, and i got my G checked by some machanics and they all said that i needed to change the lower control arm or the compression rod...
then i took it to the dealer, and they checked it over... and it was juz the loose of the ball joint...
do it urself, or take it to any workshops and tell them to tighten the ball joint, it will only take like 10 mins?
the dealer charged me $60+... thats y dealer is always my last choice LOL
then i took it to the dealer, and they checked it over... and it was juz the loose of the ball joint...
do it urself, or take it to any workshops and tell them to tighten the ball joint, it will only take like 10 mins?
the dealer charged me $60+... thats y dealer is always my last choice LOL
#15
Sorry to revive an older thread. I have a klunking noise in my left front also. Only on small little bumps in the road. Local shop says they can replace just the bushing and it costs $23 bucks? Others say the whole arm (dealer) for big bucks.
Dont feel or hear any squeaking, just metal on metal klunk like something is loose.
Checked sway bar endlinks and they felt good.
Opinions?
Dont feel or hear any squeaking, just metal on metal klunk like something is loose.
Checked sway bar endlinks and they felt good.
Opinions?
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