Hawk HPS or EBC Redstuff?
#16
10-22-2008, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RADTECH
I installed EBC redstuff on my '03 coupe. I love them. The first 300 miles they squeeked abit, even though I bedded them in properly. But after that they have been great. Even though I dont race or drift, I do drive kinda agressively. The amount of brake dust and squeaking is non-exsistant compared to the oem pads I had on there. Plus they stop better.
Wish I could have kept them, but I don't think they would have worked without those tabs.
#18
10-24-2008, 10:53 PM
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#19
10-27-2008, 10:33 AM
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#20
10-28-2008, 07:45 PM
I'm looking for better pads for my G as well.
My problem is different - I could care less about brake dust. I don't want longer pad life, I don't care if the pads cut into the rotors. If the pads and rotors wore out together after a good smooth 20K of horrible black brake dust I would be totally fine.
My pads don't wear out, but I get horrible vibrations after about 10K on new OE rotors and pads. I have tried bedding them in gently and abusively. I don't know if the rotors are warping or if there are glazed spots, deposits or what. Once it happens they are like that for good - even low speed stops you can feel the car surging on the brakes. When I replace the pads, they still have the chamfers on the leading and trailing edges - they are hardly worn at all, but if I am replacing the rotors I am going to do the pads as well.
Everything is torqued perfectly - I have never had a car that ate rotors like this. What's even stranger is that the rears warp/deposit/whatever before the fronts. In the beginning the back will start to vibrate first, usually around the 8K mark. By 10 or 12K the steering wheel will shake with the brakes as well. Replace everything and I am good for another 10K
What's different for me than most of you is that I don't brake very aggressively except for a very, very rare track day - even then I try to use the brakes at a minimum. I find that the brakes fade very fast and that if I scrub off speed from 120 to 90 reasonably quickly one time, the brakes will vibrate for the rest of their life. My daily commute is 200 miles of empty interstate - I typically cruise right at 100 most of the time, so the majority of the 10K the brakes are vibration free is really easy highway miles. Maybe oil or stuff from the road is getting on them? Again - I rarely hammer the brakes.
What kills me is that my wifes A4 which has smaller brakes will stop perfectly - much more consistantly, and with much better pedal feel than my G35. I realize it is a lighter car but it has smaller discs, smaller wheels, etc. Her car turns the wheels black but the brakes never fade or warp under similar conditions to my G. Hers I can abuse much more than mine with no signs of anything bad but a burning smell. If I get to the point that I can smell my brakes - it is too late.
That's what I want - seeing that the A4 can do it with tiny discs I realize that I don't need a big brake kit, just better parts.
If it is deposits - maybe different, softer pads would work better. If the rotors are warping maybe better rotors - but I am not interesting in slots or holes.
Suggestions? I was also looking at the Hawk and EBC pads. I have run EBC pads on my bikes with pretty good luck in the past, but always with EBC rotors and always under track conditions.
Car is an '06 Sedan 6mt approaching 70K and ready for the 5th set of rotors. And the 4th AC compressor belt. And the rear end is creaking again . . .
My problem is different - I could care less about brake dust. I don't want longer pad life, I don't care if the pads cut into the rotors. If the pads and rotors wore out together after a good smooth 20K of horrible black brake dust I would be totally fine.
My pads don't wear out, but I get horrible vibrations after about 10K on new OE rotors and pads. I have tried bedding them in gently and abusively. I don't know if the rotors are warping or if there are glazed spots, deposits or what. Once it happens they are like that for good - even low speed stops you can feel the car surging on the brakes. When I replace the pads, they still have the chamfers on the leading and trailing edges - they are hardly worn at all, but if I am replacing the rotors I am going to do the pads as well.
Everything is torqued perfectly - I have never had a car that ate rotors like this. What's even stranger is that the rears warp/deposit/whatever before the fronts. In the beginning the back will start to vibrate first, usually around the 8K mark. By 10 or 12K the steering wheel will shake with the brakes as well. Replace everything and I am good for another 10K
What's different for me than most of you is that I don't brake very aggressively except for a very, very rare track day - even then I try to use the brakes at a minimum. I find that the brakes fade very fast and that if I scrub off speed from 120 to 90 reasonably quickly one time, the brakes will vibrate for the rest of their life. My daily commute is 200 miles of empty interstate - I typically cruise right at 100 most of the time, so the majority of the 10K the brakes are vibration free is really easy highway miles. Maybe oil or stuff from the road is getting on them? Again - I rarely hammer the brakes.
What kills me is that my wifes A4 which has smaller brakes will stop perfectly - much more consistantly, and with much better pedal feel than my G35. I realize it is a lighter car but it has smaller discs, smaller wheels, etc. Her car turns the wheels black but the brakes never fade or warp under similar conditions to my G. Hers I can abuse much more than mine with no signs of anything bad but a burning smell. If I get to the point that I can smell my brakes - it is too late.
That's what I want - seeing that the A4 can do it with tiny discs I realize that I don't need a big brake kit, just better parts.
If it is deposits - maybe different, softer pads would work better. If the rotors are warping maybe better rotors - but I am not interesting in slots or holes.
Suggestions? I was also looking at the Hawk and EBC pads. I have run EBC pads on my bikes with pretty good luck in the past, but always with EBC rotors and always under track conditions.
Car is an '06 Sedan 6mt approaching 70K and ready for the 5th set of rotors. And the 4th AC compressor belt. And the rear end is creaking again . . .
#21
10-28-2008, 09:38 PM
I have ebc redstuff all around. I think they are too hard. after 8 months and about 8k miles the fronts are putting small grooves in drilled and slotted rotors that were new with the pads. I don't think the stopping distance is better than oem either.
If you are on the track and really heating your brakes i think the ceramic/kevlar red stuff compound would work really well. For street use not so much but they do put out very little dust.
If you are on the track and really heating your brakes i think the ceramic/kevlar red stuff compound would work really well. For street use not so much but they do put out very little dust.
#22
10-28-2008, 09:57 PM
I have the Greenstuff all around, with the EBC Drilled/Slotted rotors up front. The EBC's still make a decent amount of dust, but seem to have a better bite when warmed, with initial bite being the same or slightly less than OEM. The only major complaint that i have (which is mainly due to the rotors) is the noise
#23
10-28-2008, 10:20 PM
Originally Posted by CBRworm
I'm looking for better pads for my G as well.
My problem is different - I could care less about brake dust. I don't want longer pad life, I don't care if the pads cut into the rotors. If the pads and rotors wore out together after a good smooth 20K of horrible black brake dust I would be totally fine.
My pads don't wear out, but I get horrible vibrations after about 10K on new OE rotors and pads. I have tried bedding them in gently and abusively. I don't know if the rotors are warping or if there are glazed spots, deposits or what. Once it happens they are like that for good - even low speed stops you can feel the car surging on the brakes. When I replace the pads, they still have the chamfers on the leading and trailing edges - they are hardly worn at all, but if I am replacing the rotors I am going to do the pads as well.
Everything is torqued perfectly - I have never had a car that ate rotors like this. What's even stranger is that the rears warp/deposit/whatever before the fronts. In the beginning the back will start to vibrate first, usually around the 8K mark. By 10 or 12K the steering wheel will shake with the brakes as well. Replace everything and I am good for another 10K
What's different for me than most of you is that I don't brake very aggressively except for a very, very rare track day - even then I try to use the brakes at a minimum. I find that the brakes fade very fast and that if I scrub off speed from 120 to 90 reasonably quickly one time, the brakes will vibrate for the rest of their life. My daily commute is 200 miles of empty interstate - I typically cruise right at 100 most of the time, so the majority of the 10K the brakes are vibration free is really easy highway miles. Maybe oil or stuff from the road is getting on them? Again - I rarely hammer the brakes.
What kills me is that my wifes A4 which has smaller brakes will stop perfectly - much more consistantly, and with much better pedal feel than my G35. I realize it is a lighter car but it has smaller discs, smaller wheels, etc. Her car turns the wheels black but the brakes never fade or warp under similar conditions to my G. Hers I can abuse much more than mine with no signs of anything bad but a burning smell. If I get to the point that I can smell my brakes - it is too late.
That's what I want - seeing that the A4 can do it with tiny discs I realize that I don't need a big brake kit, just better parts.
If it is deposits - maybe different, softer pads would work better. If the rotors are warping maybe better rotors - but I am not interesting in slots or holes.
Suggestions? I was also looking at the Hawk and EBC pads. I have run EBC pads on my bikes with pretty good luck in the past, but always with EBC rotors and always under track conditions.
Car is an '06 Sedan 6mt approaching 70K and ready for the 5th set of rotors. And the 4th AC compressor belt. And the rear end is creaking again . . .
My problem is different - I could care less about brake dust. I don't want longer pad life, I don't care if the pads cut into the rotors. If the pads and rotors wore out together after a good smooth 20K of horrible black brake dust I would be totally fine.
My pads don't wear out, but I get horrible vibrations after about 10K on new OE rotors and pads. I have tried bedding them in gently and abusively. I don't know if the rotors are warping or if there are glazed spots, deposits or what. Once it happens they are like that for good - even low speed stops you can feel the car surging on the brakes. When I replace the pads, they still have the chamfers on the leading and trailing edges - they are hardly worn at all, but if I am replacing the rotors I am going to do the pads as well.
Everything is torqued perfectly - I have never had a car that ate rotors like this. What's even stranger is that the rears warp/deposit/whatever before the fronts. In the beginning the back will start to vibrate first, usually around the 8K mark. By 10 or 12K the steering wheel will shake with the brakes as well. Replace everything and I am good for another 10K
What's different for me than most of you is that I don't brake very aggressively except for a very, very rare track day - even then I try to use the brakes at a minimum. I find that the brakes fade very fast and that if I scrub off speed from 120 to 90 reasonably quickly one time, the brakes will vibrate for the rest of their life. My daily commute is 200 miles of empty interstate - I typically cruise right at 100 most of the time, so the majority of the 10K the brakes are vibration free is really easy highway miles. Maybe oil or stuff from the road is getting on them? Again - I rarely hammer the brakes.
What kills me is that my wifes A4 which has smaller brakes will stop perfectly - much more consistantly, and with much better pedal feel than my G35. I realize it is a lighter car but it has smaller discs, smaller wheels, etc. Her car turns the wheels black but the brakes never fade or warp under similar conditions to my G. Hers I can abuse much more than mine with no signs of anything bad but a burning smell. If I get to the point that I can smell my brakes - it is too late.
That's what I want - seeing that the A4 can do it with tiny discs I realize that I don't need a big brake kit, just better parts.
If it is deposits - maybe different, softer pads would work better. If the rotors are warping maybe better rotors - but I am not interesting in slots or holes.
Suggestions? I was also looking at the Hawk and EBC pads. I have run EBC pads on my bikes with pretty good luck in the past, but always with EBC rotors and always under track conditions.
Car is an '06 Sedan 6mt approaching 70K and ready for the 5th set of rotors. And the 4th AC compressor belt. And the rear end is creaking again . . .
#25
10-30-2008, 04:40 PM
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I got the EBC Redstuff on my 03' Coupe and will never buy anything else. These things after about 1000 miles settled in and bam when I brake I stop. I drive this car about 60 miles a day with some stretchs around 120 mph and these brakes don't fade at all like OEM's. They do get to smelling but that is good stuff. If you mess with the rotors I can't tell you enough to make sure the runout is checked. I am suffering from not doing this with my EBC's and have to take them in to get them turned after 6000 miles.
#26
10-31-2008, 03:08 PM
#27
12-10-2008, 05:45 PM
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My experience with maintaining my brake system for my 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT:
Brembo Brake System
Ventilated disk brakes: Stock rotors are edge-vented whereas the other type is cross-drilled
Changed brakes @ 48K – I’m not a hard braker.
Bought my EBC Redstuff brake pads online
Paid Midas to install the pads on fronts and rears; the installer said I could keep the same rotors (edge vented), he is able to shave them because they’re edge-vented, NOT cross-drilled
Paid $184 pads / $220 installed = $404 total
Additional Notes:
The Infiniti dealership told me that no ventilated rotors could be shaved and must always be replaced whenever they require shaving, regardless of ventilated rotor type.
The Midas Dudes told me that you can’t shave cross-drilled rotors BUT the edge vented rotors can be shaved if and only if they have enough meat / thickness on them still.
Therefore, the dealership quoted me for $2100 for new pads + rotors + install labor. Additional taxes for whatever else they could think of.
I paid $404 vs. $2100 = savings of about 81%
Now here’s the lousy part:
These EBC brakes squeak – and I mean really squeak during light braking at about 10 – 0 mph – on all 4 rotors. Let me put it like this: I don’t see myself rolling-up to a nice club for valet service anytime soon.
The Midas installer told me that EBC brake pads, whether it’s Greenstuff or Blackstuff are notorious for squealing. Up to that point he hadn’t heard anything about Redstuff. Midas had so many complaints with the EBC Greenstuff and Blackstuff, that they had to stop selling them altogether.
If I was to do it again, which may be sooner than I was hoping, I’d probably go with another brand, OEM’s, Hawks, et cetera. I can deal with brake dust on a weekly basis versus hearing those dogs barking every time I step on the brakes so I can come to a smooth stop
In general, the Midas installer also told me that high performance brakes almost always, to a certain degree, squeal.
The pads however, have good bite and stop fast and smooth with very little brake dust.
If you’re looking into new brakes I hope this info helps. I was in a tossup between EBC and OEM’s. I got a decent deal on the EBC so as a matter of convenience I just went with them. Bad move. I may have to change these out fairly quickly and pay so that I don’t have to replace the rotors with the pads…and still save 60% compared to the Infiniti dealership...pathetic…
Brembo Brake System
Ventilated disk brakes: Stock rotors are edge-vented whereas the other type is cross-drilled
Changed brakes @ 48K – I’m not a hard braker.
Bought my EBC Redstuff brake pads online
Paid Midas to install the pads on fronts and rears; the installer said I could keep the same rotors (edge vented), he is able to shave them because they’re edge-vented, NOT cross-drilled
Paid $184 pads / $220 installed = $404 total
Additional Notes:
The Infiniti dealership told me that no ventilated rotors could be shaved and must always be replaced whenever they require shaving, regardless of ventilated rotor type.
The Midas Dudes told me that you can’t shave cross-drilled rotors BUT the edge vented rotors can be shaved if and only if they have enough meat / thickness on them still.
Therefore, the dealership quoted me for $2100 for new pads + rotors + install labor. Additional taxes for whatever else they could think of.
I paid $404 vs. $2100 = savings of about 81%
Now here’s the lousy part:
These EBC brakes squeak – and I mean really squeak during light braking at about 10 – 0 mph – on all 4 rotors. Let me put it like this: I don’t see myself rolling-up to a nice club for valet service anytime soon.
The Midas installer told me that EBC brake pads, whether it’s Greenstuff or Blackstuff are notorious for squealing. Up to that point he hadn’t heard anything about Redstuff. Midas had so many complaints with the EBC Greenstuff and Blackstuff, that they had to stop selling them altogether.
If I was to do it again, which may be sooner than I was hoping, I’d probably go with another brand, OEM’s, Hawks, et cetera. I can deal with brake dust on a weekly basis versus hearing those dogs barking every time I step on the brakes so I can come to a smooth stop
In general, the Midas installer also told me that high performance brakes almost always, to a certain degree, squeal.
The pads however, have good bite and stop fast and smooth with very little brake dust.
If you’re looking into new brakes I hope this info helps. I was in a tossup between EBC and OEM’s. I got a decent deal on the EBC so as a matter of convenience I just went with them. Bad move. I may have to change these out fairly quickly and pay so that I don’t have to replace the rotors with the pads…and still save 60% compared to the Infiniti dealership...pathetic…
#28
12-10-2008, 06:39 PM
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here is my brake history with this car, I've had it a year. It is an '03 coupe, no Brembos. I went with EBC rotors, slotted and drilled, with EBC Redstuff pads. I've been diagnosing noises for the past 6 months with them. So ultimately this is what I did. Pulled the rotors off and brought them to a speed shop because most shops can't or wont turn slotted and drilled rotors. They charged me 10.00 a rotor. And there is plenty of meat on the EBC's for turning. Because of the noise I wanted to try a different pad. I was on Partstrain.com and came across Kool Vue ceramic pads and purchased them for the front and back.
I started all this because I drive this car hard. Diving into turns and the such and the stock brakes just faded right out. Once they got hot they became really unpredictable. So I loved the Redstuff EBC's but like it has been said, "Too damn noisy"!! I have about 300 miles on the new pads and they feel great for my driving and they are quiet. I really hope I don't have to get back into the brakes for a year. I'm a bit burnt on G35 brake jobs.
I started all this because I drive this car hard. Diving into turns and the such and the stock brakes just faded right out. Once they got hot they became really unpredictable. So I loved the Redstuff EBC's but like it has been said, "Too damn noisy"!! I have about 300 miles on the new pads and they feel great for my driving and they are quiet. I really hope I don't have to get back into the brakes for a year. I'm a bit burnt on G35 brake jobs.
#29
12-10-2008, 09:01 PM
anybody who would pay infiniti $2100 for new rotors and pads should have their head examined.
Figure $100 a piece for the rotors, $75 an axle for good pads. With a lift you can do each wheel in 15 minutes or less. Figure an hour of labor at $120/hour.
$700 max for that. How they come up with $2100 is beyond me.
Figure $100 a piece for the rotors, $75 an axle for good pads. With a lift you can do each wheel in 15 minutes or less. Figure an hour of labor at $120/hour.
$700 max for that. How they come up with $2100 is beyond me.
#30
12-12-2008, 09:14 AM
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My RedStuffs only sqeaked for the 1st 100miles. I love them and the brake dust has been non-exsistant compared to stock. Had um 12000 miles now and not a problem. Maybe its a rotor/brake combo. I put on drilled / slotted rotors same time as pads with the stock calipers. Weird to hear they sweek so much for others.