Front Rotor is Warped... need advice on setup :)
Front Rotor is Warped... need advice on setup :)
Hey all... My 05 6mt's front rotor is warped... lots of vibration when coming to a stop... Driveable but annoying as crap 
So here is my question to you experts:
What rotor / pad combo will work best with the stock 05 OEM coupe? What do you have on? regrets? pros / cons? good places to get them for a reasonable price etc etc
Any and all help will be mucho appreciated
I plan on installing them myself - i know i need to get a pump to bleed the lines ... any other obstacles I should be aware of ? (ZCG quoted me like 450 for the install)...

So here is my question to you experts:
What rotor / pad combo will work best with the stock 05 OEM coupe? What do you have on? regrets? pros / cons? good places to get them for a reasonable price etc etc
Any and all help will be mucho appreciated

I plan on installing them myself - i know i need to get a pump to bleed the lines ... any other obstacles I should be aware of ? (ZCG quoted me like 450 for the install)...
First don't just assume that it's warped. You must have gotten them real hot and let them sit. What happens is, you get them real hot (like in a panic stop or very hard driving) and then sit at a stop with your foot on the brake. What happens is, you get pad "transfer" to the rotor. So as your pad passes that spot each time, it grabs harder, giving you the vibration. Look at www.stoptech.com in their "white papers" for warped rotors.
So, what do you do? Take them off and give them a good sanding with an orbital sander using say 120-240 grit paper. This will break the glaze and stop the vibration.
You can also have an auto parts store or brake shop machine them to remove this or if they are truly warped, it will fix that.
To check for warping, jack up one side front and remove the wheel. Spin the rotor while you hold a needle close to the flat of the rotor using a small magnet stuck to the caliper. This will act like a run out gauge. You will be able to see the "run out" (warping) if there is any.
So, what do you do? Take them off and give them a good sanding with an orbital sander using say 120-240 grit paper. This will break the glaze and stop the vibration.
You can also have an auto parts store or brake shop machine them to remove this or if they are truly warped, it will fix that.
To check for warping, jack up one side front and remove the wheel. Spin the rotor while you hold a needle close to the flat of the rotor using a small magnet stuck to the caliper. This will act like a run out gauge. You will be able to see the "run out" (warping) if there is any.
wow.. didnt think of that @ all ... interesting ... Def will try it out and update here... But just in case that it is warped and needs replacing (car is at 31K miles about)... what do people suggest?
Sanding them your self might not be such a good Idea unless you have done it before and know what you doing.
OEM rotors are crap they constantly overheat and that creates high/low spots on the rotors.
When metal heats up it expands when it cools down it contracts. That happens constantly to the rotor. If you have a quality rotor then it will take a long long time for a rotor to develop high or low spots (also depends on your braking technique) But if you have a sh!tty rotors like OEM then it will happen very quickly. I had mine machined twice before my pads were gone.
So if you have not turned (machined) them yet you can do that.
As far as upgrading you rotors..........Search this forum I recently saw a good deal for rotors and pads for $600 or some **** like that.
I went with StopTech slotted rotors. They are direct replacement for OEM rotors, no need for any brackets or anything like that.
My StopTech rotors lasted me over 30k without turning them. Just turned them for the first time last friday and will be getting new pads this friday (did not know I needed new pads until I took my rotors off)
Good luck.
OEM rotors are crap they constantly overheat and that creates high/low spots on the rotors.
When metal heats up it expands when it cools down it contracts. That happens constantly to the rotor. If you have a quality rotor then it will take a long long time for a rotor to develop high or low spots (also depends on your braking technique) But if you have a sh!tty rotors like OEM then it will happen very quickly. I had mine machined twice before my pads were gone.
So if you have not turned (machined) them yet you can do that.
As far as upgrading you rotors..........Search this forum I recently saw a good deal for rotors and pads for $600 or some **** like that.
I went with StopTech slotted rotors. They are direct replacement for OEM rotors, no need for any brackets or anything like that.
My StopTech rotors lasted me over 30k without turning them. Just turned them for the first time last friday and will be getting new pads this friday (did not know I needed new pads until I took my rotors off)
Good luck.
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes/...-oem-size.html
Here you go.
I dunno about the rotors I never used that brand but pads are ok. I'm running them with my stopTech rotors.
Here you go.
I dunno about the rotors I never used that brand but pads are ok. I'm running them with my stopTech rotors.
If you're looking to get them installed, check out Ricks Performance in Pleasanton. I got front and rear pads installed and my rotors resurfaced for $150. They specialize in imports, specifically Rx-7's.
good to know... if the price is right ... i will def have them install if for me 
Thanks guys... I love this forum
But keep em coming... so far stoptech is looking good

Thanks guys... I love this forum
But keep em coming... so far stoptech is looking good
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I had stoptech replacement rotors with hawk HPS performance pads( not race). Loved everything about them. They are very quiet, minimal dust and very nice stopping power under hard driving.
The only downside with these pads is the initial stopping distance. In fact i don't think any aftermarket pads will stop as quick as the stock nissan pads but the high temperature resistance and quietness makes it up for it.
For rotors only, u can not go wrong with stoptech drilled rotors. They are the best replacement IMO.
The only downside with these pads is the initial stopping distance. In fact i don't think any aftermarket pads will stop as quick as the stock nissan pads but the high temperature resistance and quietness makes it up for it.
For rotors only, u can not go wrong with stoptech drilled rotors. They are the best replacement IMO.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
I had stoptech replacement rotors with hawk HPS performance pads( not race). Loved everything about them. They are very quiet, minimal dust and very nice stopping power under hard driving.
The only downside with these pads is the initial stopping distance. In fact i don't think any aftermarket pads will stop as quick as the stock nissan pads but the high temperature resistance and quietness makes it up for it.
For rotors only, u can not go wrong with stoptech drilled rotors. They are the best replacement IMO.
The only downside with these pads is the initial stopping distance. In fact i don't think any aftermarket pads will stop as quick as the stock nissan pads but the high temperature resistance and quietness makes it up for it.
For rotors only, u can not go wrong with stoptech drilled rotors. They are the best replacement IMO.
Mine were fine after doing that.
Note to OP: DO NOT GET "drilled" rotors! One of my back ones cracked after a year. No big wear, but a radial crack all the way to the hub.
have anyone done any studies between slotted and drilled rotors to see which rotors have less braking surface compared to OEM rotors?
I always thought that drilled have less braking surface
I always thought that drilled have less braking surface
I am in a similar situation, but only getting about 10K before the back OE rotors vibrate badly.
I ordered a set of DBA rotors and B-force pads and will see if I can get them to last longer.
I am careful about not pounding on the brakes and then coming to a full stop, usually I am just scrubbing off speed, but not stopping.
I don't know if it is the new style rotors or pads that cause the problems but hopefully by replacing both with higher temp parts the deposit or warping will go away.
If all goes well I will have 10K on them by march and can give an update.
If it does work I will recommend it whole heartedly. If not I will also let everyone know.
I ordered a set of DBA rotors and B-force pads and will see if I can get them to last longer.
I am careful about not pounding on the brakes and then coming to a full stop, usually I am just scrubbing off speed, but not stopping.
I don't know if it is the new style rotors or pads that cause the problems but hopefully by replacing both with higher temp parts the deposit or warping will go away.
If all goes well I will have 10K on them by march and can give an update.
If it does work I will recommend it whole heartedly. If not I will also let everyone know.
slotted and drilled both have less surface area than standard disks. Slotted supposedly maintains disk integrity where drilled is more prone to cracking if not made correctly. Slotted and drilled both tend to wear pads faster which can be good or bad depending on material and use.
Originally Posted by CBRworm
I am in a similar situation, but only getting about 10K before the back OE rotors vibrate badly.
I ordered a set of DBA rotors and B-force pads and will see if I can get them to last longer.
I am careful about not pounding on the brakes and then coming to a full stop, usually I am just scrubbing off speed, but not stopping.
I don't know if it is the new style rotors or pads that cause the problems but hopefully by replacing both with higher temp parts the deposit or warping will go away.
If all goes well I will have 10K on them by march and can give an update.
If it does work I will recommend it whole heartedly. If not I will also let everyone know.
I ordered a set of DBA rotors and B-force pads and will see if I can get them to last longer.
I am careful about not pounding on the brakes and then coming to a full stop, usually I am just scrubbing off speed, but not stopping.
I don't know if it is the new style rotors or pads that cause the problems but hopefully by replacing both with higher temp parts the deposit or warping will go away.
If all goes well I will have 10K on them by march and can give an update.
If it does work I will recommend it whole heartedly. If not I will also let everyone know.
OEM rotors simply suck huge hairy *****.
Originally Posted by CBRworm
slotted and drilled both have less surface area than standard disks. Slotted supposedly maintains disk integrity where drilled is more prone to cracking if not made correctly. Slotted and drilled both tend to wear pads faster which can be good or bad depending on material and use.
what I was wondering is that which suffer more loss.....Slotted or drilled?
I am not sure as far as surface area, but the fact that you lose rigidity with holes makes that a major down point for me.
Many of the rotors I see are drilled and slotted which is the worst of both worlds. Less surface area, less heat sink area, stress risers around the holes, etc. Also if the slots are continuous all the way from the inside to the outside if the swept area that can also present a weakness.
That being said I ordered DBA slotted only - we'll see how they hold up.
Many of the rotors I see are drilled and slotted which is the worst of both worlds. Less surface area, less heat sink area, stress risers around the holes, etc. Also if the slots are continuous all the way from the inside to the outside if the swept area that can also present a weakness.
That being said I ordered DBA slotted only - we'll see how they hold up.



