Just got done replacing rear pads on my '04 sedan (non brembo) and noticed the driver's side pad was almost gone and the rotor was slightly rippled (not gouged out or anything) but the passenger side had twice the pad left and rotor still very smooth.

What does this indicate? How do I fix it?

PS Stealership wanted $340 to change the pads (no rotors) - WTF?

IMO I'd replace the brake fluid, make sure the pads slide freely on thier guides and get the rotors resurfaced to even the pad surface friction...and then properly bed the pads to transfer the right amount of material onto the rotors and seal the pads. Read the stoptech info on replacing brake pads.

You may have a seized caliper on the side that's not worn down.

I have the same problem, the piston inside the caliper is sticking.
I will be replacing both rears.

RTS - Where you having it done? Est Cost?

Not doubting your plans but unless you've dis-assembled the caliper and know for sure, it's a lot cheaper and less time to try what I suggested from experience.

Besides, you can usually clean the caliper cylinder/bore and not replace the whole unit unless it's severely scored.

In any event make sure the surface state of the rotors and pads are matched or you'll be wasting money. I've seen poor brake pads / bedding processes cause your problem and it had nothing to do with the caliper. If the pads and rotors seal improperly (friction material doesn't evenly transfer to the rotor and/or glaze the pad face), there will be less friction at that wheel and very diffcult to correct without starting over.

Aged brake fluid (water absorbtion) can also cause vapor pockets close to the caliper and contribute to and cause uneven brake force friction, besides corrosion to everything in your brake system. IMO replacing brake fluid is one of the most overlooked standard maintenance and safety items on every car that would save countless brake repairs, and the needless replacement of suspected parts.

Good luck.

Caliper slider was stuck. Caliper needs to be removed, sliding part taken(or knocked out-mine was REALLY stuck) and proper brake grease applied to slider.
If piston was seized, there NO WAY you could put new pads in-it just wouldn't compress.

LMG, I am sorry, but G35 pads will NOT slide freely(non Brembo calipers)...did you ever do brakes on this car or you just read up Stoptech website? I actually had to pry my pads out with screwdriver-after 3 years, 6 track days, 12+ autox and 40K km of mostly city driving-they wore super evenly on both sides.

Quote:
"Besides, you can usually clean the caliper cylinder/bore and not replace the whole unit unless it's severely scored"
Scored from what? it doesn't touch any moving parts....

Quote:
Aged brake fluid (water absorbtion) can also cause vapor pockets close to the caliper and contribute to and cause uneven brake force friction
Vapour? Under normal driving? You are an animal!
What is "uneven brake force friction"?

While I have Brembo brakes on my G I've done enough Brake system repairs to know that all Pads ride on some type of pin or guide.

The non-Brembo G calipers use;
Sliding Pins, Sliding Pin Bolts, and Sliding Pin Boots
Check sliding pin and sliding pin boot for wear, damage, and cracks. If damage or deformation is present,
replace the affected part.


As for the brake cylinder;
CALIPER INSPECTION
Cylinder Body

Check for corrosion, wear, or damage to the cylinder inner wall, and replace caliper if there are any nonstandard
conditions.

Minor flaws caused by corrosion or a foreign material can be removed by polishing the surface with a fine
sandpaper. Replace cylinder body, if necessary.

It's called in Infiniti Service Manual by the way.

I just replaced my 05 rear with 35k miles yesterday, the inside one worn to the metal I have to replace one of the rotor. I recommend get it done before it hit 35k miles.