Kinetic toe going out?
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park KS
Kinetic toe going out?
I have about had it with this car. I am scrubbing the left rear wheel on the inside at a rate that is unreal. I have built Porsches all my life and was a mainstream tuner but baffled at this car and feel stupid I can't figure this out. I lowered the car with tien S springs and Tokico blues. I have front camber arms and the front is perfectly in spec. The rear I have SPC bolts, adjustable radius arms and adjustable toe arms. The left rear radius arm had to be adjusted two inches or so longer to pull the camber and toe in while the right is not. The car tramlines horribly not on crested roads but on uneven pavement. It literally will snap the rear-end in place. I am assuming that the kinetic arch is out on that side making the toe walk when the wheel travels up. Only thing that makes sense. The specs in the rear static on the rack are perfect. -1.8 camber and .01 cross camber. Cross Toe is +13, spec is 0.00 0.22. Does this seem possible the arm being to long is causing this. Anyone had this issue? On the 993 Porsches we could have this issue and actually had to buy a kinetic tool to project the arch travel and the dynamic toe under arch movement.
I'm about ready to go back to stock. I don't want to but blowing through left rear tires. The car hasn't been hit, all the bushings have been replaced with whiteline bushings.
Thoughts?
I'm about ready to go back to stock. I don't want to but blowing through left rear tires. The car hasn't been hit, all the bushings have been replaced with whiteline bushings.
Thoughts?
What you're referring to as toe arms aren't toe arms...Not quite sure exactly what you're referring to though. But I know for a fact it's not a toe arm because in order to use a toe arm with our car, you'd need to remove the spring bucket where the spring sits and instead use a coilover setup where the spring is on the strut.
The toe bolt themselves and camber arms should be enough to get you back into spec. It could be that your rear tires are too wide (in combination with a lower offset). Tough to know without knowing what wheels and tire size you're running. A simple fix however (more than likely this would be enough) is to roll your fenders so the tires don't rub.
Just to clarify on the toe arms, here is a picture of them on my car. As you can see I have no spring bucket. The silver rod is the toe arm, the red one is the camber arm.
The toe bolt themselves and camber arms should be enough to get you back into spec. It could be that your rear tires are too wide (in combination with a lower offset). Tough to know without knowing what wheels and tire size you're running. A simple fix however (more than likely this would be enough) is to roll your fenders so the tires don't rub.
Just to clarify on the toe arms, here is a picture of them on my car. As you can see I have no spring bucket. The silver rod is the toe arm, the red one is the camber arm.
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park KS
Sorry I should have clarified a bit. When I say the tires are getting chewed up I mean the inner most part of the surface as if I was running improper toe or way to much camber. Typically improper tow wears more than the camber but in my case static the specs are on key. Based on your picture I have the camber arm, correct not the toe. Thanks for the clarification. However looking at the picture the radius arm in your picture that is black, the arm that comes from the front of the wheel well and connects to the front of the spindle is also adjustable and the one I am referring to as being adjusted out longer than the other. The tires are not hitting the sides; they are 9 and 10s on 265/40s and 235/40s. I am also running the SPC toe bolts.
Thanks for the help thus far. Hopefully through conversation I can get this figure out.
Thanks for the help thus far. Hopefully through conversation I can get this figure out.
Hmmm...the black arm in mine is factory. I haven't done any alignments myself so I'm not exactly too sure what all is adjusted (other than camber and toe). When I used to have my alignment done by hand (I was running -8 camber at one point), I only recall the guy adjust the toe and camber. Maybe he did other things, but I didn't seem him do it. The SPC toe bolts will get you in spec up until about -4 camber. Maybe the radius arm being adjusted is causing something to affect the alignment?
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park KS
Yea I would think it would push caster as well. I am in the office at the moment and can't look at the spec sheet. I literally just threw those out because I was moving and I am kicking myself. Before we put the toe bolts in we couldn't pull camber and toe back in it was one or the other. The bolts brought it back in but now I hae this issue. Before that I was running -3 camber with proper toe.
I had the same issue when I lowered my car. I seem to be fine now. My problem was that I could either get camber in spec or toe in spec but not both. I had to drill out the toe bolt slot some more to get them both set. This car seems to be touchy from one car to another and I almost went back to stock as well bc the rear of the car was all over the road in the rain. Not fun at all. Best of luck
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