Camber adjustment on SPL front A arms

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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 02:20 PM
  #16  
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what does the megan bbk cost?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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i think it's somewhere in the $4500 range unless it's gone up, i got mine in 2007. check their website.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan
Haha, you and me both Tim! My arms are all banged up on the underside from the bumps. It's funny that I cut then off when I install the arms on other G/Z's I work on but not my own!
350evo arms require you to shave off the same bumps as they also hit.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by G35sedan03
i think it's somewhere in the $4500 range unless it's gone up, i got mine in 2007. check their website.
eesh! ill stick to the akebonos for half the price and get new camber arms.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan
Haha, you and me both Tim! My arms are all banged up on the underside from the bumps. It's funny that I cut then off when I install the arms on other G/Z's I work on but not my own!
Like a psychiatrist that fixes people all day long at work and can't get their **** together on the home front, what's up with that??

BTW PM sent.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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financial consultant that declares bankruptcy
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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Man this thread went OT real quick.


So who wants more positive camber adjustment??
 
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MikeGrote
eesh! ill stick to the akebonos for half the price and get new camber arms.
actually their site says $3400 http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=579&catid=63 i ended up paying a lot less than that with the GB price.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:07 AM
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Tough to compete with a little over $2000 including light, 2 piece front rotors
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan
The only thing you have to be careful of with this is the arm hitting the point where the inner fender meets the body of the car.
This is the problem I'm having. With the heims only out 3/8", when I cycle the arm manually before I tighten them down, it contacts the frame. So I think I spent $600 for nothing, unless there is a workaround. Any help is welcome and appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:27 AM
  #26  
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Mike I don't know what to say. My heim joints are out 1/2" and I don't hit anywhere except for the bumps I still haven't ground down on the radius arm. And that's dropped 3". I am back in factory spec on camber and toe on all 4 corners at this point and am super happy about that.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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I recently adjusted my camber to fit my spacers and fat tires..
It was super easy to pop out shims and acquire neg camber.


This was a helpful goto link for those that don't know..
http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLFUAZ33.pdf
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #28  
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Alf we're talking about adding more positive camber, apparently with all of the shims in and moving the heim joints out some people are having issues with the front of the arms hitting the inside of the frame.

Thanks for the link, it's a good one.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #29  
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Yeah. I remember in the directions if u needed more pos camber to back out the heim joints.. When Mine are all the way in and all the shims were in, my alignment was PERFECT.. No camber issues or tire wear what so ever... Kinda bummed I had to run spacers for my BBK requiring me to add -1 degree camber so I wouldn't rub.. I guess I wouldnt really have to if I was running a stretched tire though..

SPL parts are nice.. Endlinks are next for me..
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #30  
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I got em on with the heims out about 1/4", at the alignment shop now so we will see. But I must say, they looked pretty good with just a visual check
 
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