Caliper Replacement Procedure Help
Caliper Replacement Procedure Help
I have a seized rear caliper and plan on replacing both rears this weekend because the other shouldn't be too far behind it. I know I'm going to need to bleed due to disconnecting the line and air being introduced into the system but my question is, is there a order I should do it in to prevent air from being pulled to far in and get into the abs? Should I replace one side then bleed, or will I be fine replacing both calipers then bleeding? I basically want to let the least amount of air possible into the system. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by BuzzLightYear; Jun 15, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
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When bleeding the brakes start from the right rear, then left rear, right front, then left front. The goal is to slowly move closer to the master cylinder while bleeding out the air in the lines.
Thanks for the tips. Just one more question as far as the bleeding goes. When u have someone pump the pedal and hold it down, when you open the valve do you keep it open till fluid stops coming out or do you close it after a certain amount of time before the fluid stops flowing out?
Keep it open until fluid no longer squirts out. The person on the pedal MUST keep the pedal firmly down on the floor until you have the bleeder valve closed. Then have them pump the pedal 2 or 3 times to build up pressure. Then repeat.
Or you could get a vacuum canister and attach it to the bleeder screw. No need for someone to press the pedal. Just make sure someone is there to refill the reservoir.
Or you could get a vacuum canister and attach it to the bleeder screw. No need for someone to press the pedal. Just make sure someone is there to refill the reservoir.
I'd try to do a safe ABS check. Parking lots are perfect in case the VDC tries to drag your car off to the side or puts you into a spin. Get up to 30 mph and just stand on the brakes hard to force ABS actuation. See how it behaves.
You might have a solenoid froze up and are not getting proper flow (or pressure) to one of the tires. It's really hard to diagnose on a lift because even a tiny bit of hydraulic pressure will be impossible to turn by hand. Once you have a thousand pounds of car and a high friction coefficient while actually driving these things present themselves pretty clearly.
You might have a solenoid froze up and are not getting proper flow (or pressure) to one of the tires. It's really hard to diagnose on a lift because even a tiny bit of hydraulic pressure will be impossible to turn by hand. Once you have a thousand pounds of car and a high friction coefficient while actually driving these things present themselves pretty clearly.
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