Hey Guys and Gals, Thought I would post a suggestion for all. I have a 2005 G35 Sedan with 256,000 miles. Had it since 20,000. I've had several brake changes and consistently the front rotors warp very shortly after the brake change. Ya know you get the humping movement on the pedal and the slight jerking when braking. FINALLY I decided to do the brakes myself 10,000 miles ago and NOW HAVE NO Front Rotor Warpage.


The solution for me was DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS. So owners that have this experience may want to do the same.

 

also, do not use an impact gun on the lugs. Use a torque wrench (set to 100 lbs, IIRC).

 

Also be sure to bed the new rotors, even if you're reusing your old pads.

The purpose of bedding is to transfer a thin, uniform layer of pad material onto the disc surface. If you don't, the brakes will work fine, but one day, you will pull off the freeway and end up at a long stoplight. Because you just slowed a 3300lb car down from 60 mph, the rotors will be extremely hot, and with your foot still on the brake, you will end up cooking pad material onto that specific part of the rotor (aka pad deposits). If the rotors and pads have been properly bed, the transfer layer will prevent the deposits from sticking, and they will be wiped away as soon as you press the brakes again. If you haven't bed the rotors and pads together, these deposits can create an uneven friction profile on the rotor, resulting jutter in the brake pedal, and possibly the steering wheel as well if one side of the car gets it worse than the other.

If the rotors were REALLY hot, say after coming down a mountain pass, and you were to sit at that light long enough, then the rest of the rotor will cool down while the section clamped between your brake pads will stay nice and hot. This can lead to excessive rotor run-out (aka warping).

There are, of course, other reasons why brakes will jutter and even warp (uneven cheek thickness + extreme heat cycling, uneven/poor ventilation + extreme heat cycling). but these causes are much less common, mostly due to the 'extreme heat cycling' part.

 

Had you done a "Search" K of miles ago you would have discovered rotor warping comes from two issues! The major reason is installing wheels using a impact gun which over tightens the lug nuts warping rotors! Second being cheap rotors removed from the kil too soon and not having enough time to cool! Wheels should only be installed with a torque gun set at 80 FT/LBS!
Gary

 

Fixed it!

 

Ty ^ I was twitching a bit haha.