I'm attempting to install z-springs on my 04 Sedan, and understand there are two ways to remove the front springs.

One involves the removal of cotter pins, and one does not. My understanding is that removing the cotter pins makes it a lot easier. I have downloaded the install guide from Gsedan35, but this doesn't include the cotter pin removal.

Can anyone tell me where in this install, the cotter removal should be performed, and if it's worth doing.

I've attached the guilde for reference. It's not actually written by Gsedan, but his original guide was used to create this one.


http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=25

 

When you are ready to pull the front strut off the car. cotter pins can be had for like $3 for 20pcs+ so just do that.

The other way is to remove the A-Arm bolts where it mounts to the chassis...(not worth it imho).

 

I just installed 350z H-techs last week...it was my 1st time ever changing out springs. At first I followed the DIY guide but couldn't get the spring/strut out..it kept getting hung up on the upper arm. Finally decided to do the whole remove cotter pin and nut from the upper arm and it is soooo much easier this way.

Anyways, here's what I did:

1) Before removing any nuts/bolts, I compressed the spring by jacking up the suspension via the lower arm(where the strut attaches). This allowed me to attach the spring compressor tool more easily(since the spring was already being compressed)

2) Removed 3 nuts from the top of the strut and 1 from the bottom. Removed nut from the sway bar end link that attaches to lower arm. Remove brake line and speed sensor from the strut.

3) "Crack open" the top nut that holds the spring to the strut. DO NOT remove this nut...just until it freed up a little. This will make it much easier to use Gsedan35's method with the offset wrench to eventually remove nut. Trust me, I had to put the spring/strut back on the car(with the 3 strut nuts reattached in the engine bay), crack open the center nut, then take the spring/strut back out.

4) Now remove the cotter pin and nut from the upper arm.

5) Slowing lower the jack. As you do this, try to push the sway bar end link off. You may need to raise/lower the suspension to get the right angle. Also watch out of the vertical arm that attaches to the upper arm...it going to flop around once it's cleared the upper arm bolt.

6) Set jack aside. The upper arm should now be freed to give you more room. Remove bolt that's attached to the bottom of the strut.

Also, it's easier to jack up one side at a time(it keeps the rotor assembly from turning as you remove the upper arm nut). At first I had both sides on jack stands and the whole thing rotated trying to break free the upper arm nut. Keeping the opposite wheel on the ground prevents this.

Hope this helps....It's definitely not something I would want to do too often, but it was a good learning experience.

 

Thanks CsGCoupe! That's exactly what I was looking for.

I'm in the same boat as you. It's my first attempt, but I really want to learn how to do these things, and learn more about the car in the process.