Deal Advice '07 G35S 6MT
Deal Advice '07 G35S 6MT
Hey all,
Did some dealer shopping today, my potential winner right now is an '07 G35S 6MT Lakeshore Slate, 2keys with Premium/Nav and 14.8k. The body is in perfect condition (found one white spot on the passenger door that didn't wipe off with my finger, but it might buff).
They say they got if from an area-wide "infiniti auction" for dealers. He showed me some documentation that said they payed ~30,500 and we talked about something between that and 31k. Still haven't discussed my trade-in (14yr old v8 jeep with 130k).
1) I know it's similar to jstvbmzqx's post for a similar 5AT, any additional input?
2) The dealer's not really within easy driving range, so free oil changes aren't that appealing. Are there any other perks i should try for if i can't work a lower price? I'm assuming any/all TSBs that haven't been done i can get from a closer dealer.
3) Is there anything i should look for when i test-drive? Telltale sounds or vibrations that indicate a known issue?
Did some dealer shopping today, my potential winner right now is an '07 G35S 6MT Lakeshore Slate, 2keys with Premium/Nav and 14.8k. The body is in perfect condition (found one white spot on the passenger door that didn't wipe off with my finger, but it might buff).
They say they got if from an area-wide "infiniti auction" for dealers. He showed me some documentation that said they payed ~30,500 and we talked about something between that and 31k. Still haven't discussed my trade-in (14yr old v8 jeep with 130k).
1) I know it's similar to jstvbmzqx's post for a similar 5AT, any additional input?
2) The dealer's not really within easy driving range, so free oil changes aren't that appealing. Are there any other perks i should try for if i can't work a lower price? I'm assuming any/all TSBs that haven't been done i can get from a closer dealer.
3) Is there anything i should look for when i test-drive? Telltale sounds or vibrations that indicate a known issue?
If they paid 30500 for it and are selling it for 31k, they have done NO RECONDITIONING at all to the car.
Stay away.
Average reconditioning on a car, even 1 year old, usually runs in the thousands. (this is why dealer trade in always seems so low...)
Is it an infiniti dealer?
Stay away.
Average reconditioning on a car, even 1 year old, usually runs in the thousands. (this is why dealer trade in always seems so low...)
Is it an infiniti dealer?
Hey Mike,
I tried to simplify things, they paid roughly 30k, plus another ~500 on it when they got it in the shop (inspection, brakes, oil, belt(s), etc.). It is an Infiniti dealer and was serviced by their own service center after they brought it in.
What other types of things should I have expected them to do? (It does come with the remainder of the oem warranty)
does that change your opinion, or do you still recommend staying away?
According to the sheet they got it at the auction the first week of November so it's been sitting on the lot for almost 4 months.
Jonathan
I tried to simplify things, they paid roughly 30k, plus another ~500 on it when they got it in the shop (inspection, brakes, oil, belt(s), etc.). It is an Infiniti dealer and was serviced by their own service center after they brought it in.
What other types of things should I have expected them to do? (It does come with the remainder of the oem warranty)
does that change your opinion, or do you still recommend staying away?
According to the sheet they got it at the auction the first week of November so it's been sitting on the lot for almost 4 months.
Jonathan
Last edited by thanmad; Mar 3, 2008 at 04:20 PM.
I feel SLIGHTLY better knowning it's from an Infiniti dealership.
I'd test drive it. Hard. Shift from 1st to 2nd without lifting on the gas. If the clutch doesn't catch INSTANTLY, I wouldn't buy the car, period. The clutch will still be good for a while, but the previous driver obviously used it too much.
Ask for the inspection sheets, showing how much brake pad materiel is left, how much life the rotors have, and check the tires. That car probably should have brand new tires; over 70% of the pre-owned cars we get in get new tires in our shop.
Hard to believe they only did 500 dollars in recon to the car... we average around 2500 per car here.
my $.02
I'd test drive it. Hard. Shift from 1st to 2nd without lifting on the gas. If the clutch doesn't catch INSTANTLY, I wouldn't buy the car, period. The clutch will still be good for a while, but the previous driver obviously used it too much.
Ask for the inspection sheets, showing how much brake pad materiel is left, how much life the rotors have, and check the tires. That car probably should have brand new tires; over 70% of the pre-owned cars we get in get new tires in our shop.
Hard to believe they only did 500 dollars in recon to the car... we average around 2500 per car here.
my $.02
Wow, such detailed advice! Thanks for all that info. With the 1st to 2nd shifting, is it the life of the clutch you're trying to determine (material wear?) I just drove my first manual today so things are a bit new to me still 
Great idea about asking specifically for the wear on pads/rotors/tires. Using the super-precise eyeball method, the tires looked very good from what i could see, but the brake/rotor wear did concern me too (meaning i couldn't see the pads directly).
~J

Great idea about asking specifically for the wear on pads/rotors/tires. Using the super-precise eyeball method, the tires looked very good from what i could see, but the brake/rotor wear did concern me too (meaning i couldn't see the pads directly).
~J
Last edited by thanmad; Mar 3, 2008 at 09:58 PM.
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