hi,
I wasnt hoping on paying $90 for a oil change.........i went to nissan dealership on hwy 7 and kennedy...just north, west corner..Did i get ripped off or is tha the price u guys pay?
I asked them to put mobile one....
thnx

 

Close enough. Usually runs 80 -90 at a lube shop with OEM filter and Mobile Synth.

 

even with the exchange rate, that is HIGH.. last time i paid around $35-$45 US for w/e the heck they put in there, I forgot to buy oil before i took it in... with the exchange rate, i think $90 is around $72-$75 US? so $50 for mobile 1?

 

Why don't you DIY? Pretty easy and I only spent $35 for my M1 synthetic and M1 filter. Had to pay $35 for Rhino Ramps though...

 

mobil 1 is on sale at partsource for $30 for 5.4L

 

Welcome to Canada. Unfortunately the difference in virtually all goods is more than just the exchange rate. Even the cars are 8K more after exchange.

My dealer is $100 for a change with synthetic.

 

you guys don't use Motul? 8100 or 300V?

info from another site...

some info for comparing mobile one to motul's 300V "full synthetic".... pay close attention to which group each belongs...


specifically read groups 3,4 and 5... as you can see most "synthetics" are still dino oil based (group 3)... there are only a few that are true synthetic and fewer that are 100% pure true synthetic and even in the synthetic category there are different approaches to synthetics... just some food for thought...

http://sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/


Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.

Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.

Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.

Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.

Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.

so whats the real difference between the oils in group 5? from here is about performance base so do your research and make a solid choice for whats best for your purpose and use

 

wow seems pretty expensive, good post though cause i was looking around to see how much dealers do it for, I got the mobil 1 on sale @ partsource for $35 including tax, then my friends shop did the filter and change for $20, so $55 overall... plus there some left over oil as for $35 it was 5L plus 1L

 

$90 sounds about right. Mr. Lube charges 59.77$ incl. tax for their house brand (castrol gtx, non-synthetic).

 

Went to Oakville Infiniti yeasterday-oil change for my G35 there costed me $55.00 including tax. It took them 30 min to get the 1st G35's maintenance service done. Do not know what was the oil grade though. The invoice does not say anything.

 

rofl. i did mine myself with full synthetic moble one oil and mobile one oil filter for 49.99 =0)
so therefore they charging you 40 per hour for the labor, dam thats a ripp off it only took me 10 mins

 

How can it be a rip off if the guy who started this thread has paid $90.00 for the same service?

 

dealers charge an arm and a leg for synth oil, if you want to get the oil change done at the dealership, just bring your own oil.

they're usually on sale at either walmart or can tire.

 

Quick question guys. Having just picked up the car, on the weekend I jacked it up hoping to do the first oil change. I couldn't see the filter/drain plug and since i was only using the small car jacks, didnt feel too comfortable crawling right underneith to find them. Which side should be jacked up to get the easiest access?

 

In case if you cannot do oil change by yourself - I've checked several dealerships and the 1st maintenance servise which is basically is only oil change breaks up like this (including tax):
YorkVille Infiniti - $108.00
401-Dixie Infiniti - $86.00
Oakville Infiniti - $54.65