hey guys i post before the turbo or NA and you guys leaned for the turbo almost 100%.

next question is: built engine vs normal used engine.

i use my car everyday and i drive a lot!! all i wanted was over 400hp and i got it with the turbo kit. now i have 0 psi in 2 of the cylinders which means engine is gone pretty much unless i rebuild it which im not going to do since it has close to 200,000kms on it.

for labor i have a set quote of 3000$ <-- this is to take the old engine out inspect it and put the new engine in and make the car ready to go. (anyone has any idea about a G35 mechanic that could be cheaper?? iv asked around and iv gotten questions like is ur car a mercedes or is ur car a toyota from very incompetent mechanics. once even got asked if he needed to open the engine up to put cams in.... but that was some time ago lmao). my mech knows wat hes doing but hes pricy...

now as built engines go there is only one that seems to be good pre-built with everything that can take up to 750hp at the crank. its a long block from Z1 for about 5000$ + 300$ shipping. problem with this would be not only price but also ware and tear on tranny and drivetrain and i really dont want more then 500hp for the road imo its to much for how much i drive and for an everyday car. i love the fact that if i wanted to i could run more power tho. if i do wreck any of the other parts in the car that could be expensive i wouldn't be able to fix them anytime soon which worries me.

or

used engines and from what i have found and my tuner/mech has found, go for about 500-1800$ depending on condition and kms. obviously no shipping charge or any other charge but i do risk on running into the situation that im in again.... its power limiting and i always have to watch out how i drive.. but with a good tune it shouldn't technically have problems but with that said i blew those 2 cylinders running 5.5 psi on safe boost with aggressive cam timing semi-off. im scared that if i go the cheaper way i can either get lucky or unlucky in which case i would have to part out the car cuz i wouldn't be able to afford another engine swap/build or anything.


so 8300$ for a built engine with risk of hurting other components of the car?
or 4000-5000$ for a good used engine with low millage that could give me problems again?

 

maybe do a "small build" pistons, rings, rods and head gasket. that would help. also a valve train set-up so u can rev ur car higher/safer! good luck!

 

^ +1. If you look at Thom00001 he is making 769rwhp at 30psi on just the basic engine build. Your power limit does not necessarily hinder from the lack of cams and if anything, from your setup, your bottlenecks will quickly be your tranny followed by your fuel setup followed by the turbo kit (or probably same) before the cams.



Your labour price seems a bit high, I got $3500 in a quote for building the motor (I just supply the parts). Pulling out/installing a short block is not an easy task but for $3500, you are better off finding someone else.

If you go the route of buying the parts, I would say these components to replace:
ARP Head Studs/Bolts
Eagle Rods
Arias Pistons
HKS Oil Gasket Seal

I would also get a Snow Water/meth kit if you don't have one already to help prevent against early detonation.


In terms of logitivity, I am not sure TBH if a used engine or a built engine is more reliable. I would just go built since you run the risk of blowing your new engine out again, rather just do it right the first time.

Do you have a 6MT or 5AT? For the 5AT you are good to about 450 RWHP with a VB (Transgo) and a tranny cooler. For a 6MT I am not sure. You can always crank down the boost on a built motor and now you are still not pushing your motor, can't say the same think on a OEM motor (although a tune plays a much larger role in things).



Edit: Just realised your engine has 200k, which isn't that bad. My car is at 93k and will be going for a rebuild probably next summer. Hard decision if you are set on going with a new motor all together.

 

a valve body upgrade is a must to, your transmissions gonna start to give since we have auto's.

 

Missing some very important parts for a rebuild that are a MUST.
At minimum
You need to bore your block
new full gasket kit including new head gaskets HKS is good
new bearings
rods
pistons and piston rings
new oil pump
fasteners (ARP is good)
balancing

I can't seem to find Forged long blocks but they are very good to deal with if you call them I sure they could do a price for a long block. Here is there short block since you don't plan on head work and if your heads are in good condition a short block might be the way to go.

http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=277&page=1



Whatever you do DO NOT buy a snow kit. Spend the extra money and buy a Aquamist it actually tells you if a problem has occured and you are not spraying meth. I have seen several engine failures due to the snow kit failing you get what you pay for.

The labor to pull and install an engine seems very high. A Nissan dealer could probobly do it cheaper than that get a quote from them. You also said he was going to remove and inspect the old engine why inspect it if your not fixing it?

 

thanks alot guys everything is very helpful! im getting a new engine not built with 50,000kms on it. im planning a partial build with:

eagle rods/rings
wiseco pistons
HKS head gasket
hks oil gasket seal
APR studs full kit
oil pan spacer
ams rad
valve body for tranny

i know nothing about the cooling systems snow/water meth or aquamist someone plz elaborate on how it works and costs wise?? thanks guys!

i found a mechanic that will put the engine in and take the old one out for 1500 which is half the price of my previous tuner. most ppl have been quoting me around the 1500 mark so iv decided to leave AMS which quoted me close to 3500$. im not going to say bad things about them but cuz im young i wasnt treated in the best of ways.

 

sg-motorsport, is a great place to. They have there own 350z which they enter races with. There really good with our cars and heard nothing bout good stuff about. Ask for sasha, heard hes the best, hes on the forums to but rarely comes on. You should get a qoute from them to, they know what there doing, and have turboed and supercharged many g's and z's so know whats best for our cars from experience and whats better in the long run

 

Sasha is more active on my350z

 

Sorry should have mentioned minimum, any engine builder should let him know for sure though.

For water/meth kits, has any G35/350Z actually ran into a problem with the Snow kit (I read up on the debate a while ago on my350z, I think XKR still runs a Snow kit)? I know the Aquamist is better due to several reasons (especially for a turbo) but for a 2D map, the Snow water/meth would it be alright?

 

I would say also get a B&M Transmission cooler along with a temperature gauge to monitor your tranny temperature. I heard VBs work much better if your tranny has never seen boost before so I would keep an eye on that too.


Water/meth is added to lower your intake temperatures, alowing you to pull more advance timing and boost then you would on pump gas itself. Most people usually have a seperate map on their EMS, a conservative one for pump gas (street), and one aggressive tuned for water/meth (track).

Price wise, Snow kits are cheap. You can find them on my350z for $250-350 but like Sylvan Lake V35 mentioned, there is a reason they are cheap. Aquamist/FJO will control delivery of water/meth through rpm & boost. Snow and other cheaper kits will only control delivery via boost. For a supercharger like Vortech this is no issue as boost and RPM are directly correlated, with a turbocharger they are not.

Aquamist/FJO are much more expensive. My local dealer quoted my $1k for the FJO kit, although I am sure this probably wasn't that bad of a deal (I was set on the Snow kit though).

You usually run a blend of meth and water, and there is +ves/-ves for running straight water or straight meth, alot of threads on my350z devoted to that.

Also, might want to add there is a guy on here selling his built tranny for $1500 with the VB (not sure if it still for sale). You are going to be getting close to $1k with the VB modification so a built tranny might even be a better decision overall if you are hoping to go above 420-450 RWHP.


Good luck.

 

iv decided to go with another stock motor with upgraded injectors 550cc or 660cc and head gasket and new seals and such very minor stuff and only run low boost 5-6 psi. with all the other mods good for 350whp which is very safe with a good tune and upgraded oil pumps and oil pan spacer.

im building up my motor for next season but for now i only want to get my car back cuz i dont have another one so my summer is going to waste without my car

im going to go for a full built motor sleeves and all the goodies on the motor that i have just blown might as well since its out and its going to sit there for sometimes slowly but surely ill build it.