Bought some ramps from crappy tire to do an oil change but I'm realizing I should really get a jack. Problem is the one I have at home won't fit under the G anywhere, not even on the sides. So I'm looking at getting this one:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

Seems like it should be low enough. Anyone have that one or similar?

Also for jack stands, I just have ones simliar to these regular guys:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

I checked the manual and the jack points seem to be where this thin sheet metal is poking out along the frame. I'm wondering if I could make some sort of wood blocks to accomodate that or if there is another spot you guys are using. Or if you said f*ck it and just squashed it

 

Lot of guys use those jacks at the track.
I haven't heard of too many complaints.

I made wooden blocks with a notch.

 

I use hockey pucks and jack up at the pinch welds... but I need to use a scissor jack first to get the car off the ground, then use my floor jack to jack up the car.

 

I use a set of low profile ramps to drive up on before i stick the jack under the car. With the ramps under the front wheels I can get the low profile jack just under without touching the sideskirts.

I don't remember the manufactur of the ramps but the are made of plastic or fibreglass reinforced and are only about 3" in height. Someone else here might remember the manufactur name. (Rhino Ramp maybe?)

I never use the pinch welds but rather I get under far enough to reach the frame with this setup.

Good luck!

 

Matt, I got mine at Princess Auto, similar to the one pictured. Forget how much I paid but I think it was around 120 on sale.

 

Sweet, thanks guys.

Hotchkis sways soon to come

 

I've got the exact same jack and stands. I bought them on sale in the spring and haven't had a problem with them.

I seem to recall messing up those little taps at the jack point you mentioned... hopefully that isn't a problem.

 

I also bought exactly the same set- but I did have a problem with the jack. There's a little pin on the knuckle that goes from your bar into the twisting mechanism. I'm a bit of a monkey so I turned it a bit too hard once and sheared that pin winthin a month. Unfortunately, the pin isn't even on the instructions part list... it's pretty easy to see when you look at it. I'm dropped about 2" and Wayne had no trouble accessing my jack points.

As for the stands- that notched wood is a good idea! I already bent my pinch weld with my new jack.

I lost my receipt and when I took my jack back to Crappy Tire it was on sale- so I only got about half my money back for it. Make sure you keep the receipt because that one part is pretty fragile.

 

If you were to use the jack to, jack from the side how do you do it? My jack has a round boot and other then the rear diff and the front jacking point, I dont know were I can jack it up from the sides?

 

 

^ Yes, I see that

But where could I put my jacks Round boot upto on the side of the car? I guess I need to make some sort of wood adapter for the pinch welds?

 

If you look under the car on the sides you will see the frame rail on each side. That is what I use to jack up the car. I will see if I can post up a picture if someone else doesn't beat me to it first.

 

Didn't feel like starting a new thread...kinda related...sorta...

Do the tire sensors need to be calibrated when I change my winters over? My mother mentioned they made her pay an extra charge to do this or else it would screw something up (so specific).

Hoping I can just swap them out. Assuming the tire pressure sensor is going to be on all winter anyways haha.

 

I usually put mine just beside the notch on the pinch weld, leaving room for the jackstand at the notch. Here's some video that shows at about 50-55 seconds the position of the notch relative to the side of the car (if that's what you're asking).


I place the jack's saddle far enough under the car so as not to be under the side skirt, but firmly on the pinch weld. On my jack, I can rest the pinch weld on the rubber part of the saddle.

One should definitely fab up some pieces like InTgr8r has done so everything fits nicely -- makes life just that much easier and safer.

Does that help at all?

 

TPMS needs to be reset by the stealer and they charge ~$50 for the pleasure. A Nissan stealer might do it for less than Hyatt though. My winters haves no sensors so I'm running with the warning light on. It'll recover in the spring when the summers go back on.

Kind of a stupid system - should have a button on the dash to reset the sensors.