Jeff92se
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Have you found that the rotary allows you to run a finer pad/polish to eliminate the same type of swirls/scratches etc??
ie.. I'm running a rotary with "the edge" pads and Optimium polishing products. From what I've been reading(for mostly random orbital advice), you should use xx pad and xx polish for xx type of swirls. But in my brief experience, I've needed a finer combo to accomplish the same. And needed that finer combo to rid myself of swirls that a slightly rougher combo is said not to leave.
ie.. I'm running a rotary with "the edge" pads and Optimium polishing products. From what I've been reading(for mostly random orbital advice), you should use xx pad and xx polish for xx type of swirls. But in my brief experience, I've needed a finer combo to accomplish the same. And needed that finer combo to rid myself of swirls that a slightly rougher combo is said not to leave.
Former G35driver Vendor
Yes, you can achieve similar results with a rotary using a less aggressive product and pad combination as you would with the PC. Reason, the rotary generates a lot more heat and breaks down the polishes much quicker.
So for example, what may have required a medium cutting polish and a light cutting pad with a PC may only require a finishing polish and a polishing pad with a rotary.
Hope this helps.
George
So for example, what may have required a medium cutting polish and a light cutting pad with a PC may only require a finishing polish and a polishing pad with a rotary.
Hope this helps.
George
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It does. Thanks for the confirmation. I also notice that the product breaks down extremly fast with my rotary.
Registered User
Quote:
And you can some extreme damage with the rotary if not used properly. Just remember to keep moving and don't lose concentration with the rotary. Originally Posted by Jeff92se
It does. Thanks for the confirmation. I also notice that the product breaks down extremly fast with my rotary.
Other than that, yes, the rotary does have some crazy correction ability.
Optimum products are great for rotary use because it has a long work time. Other products like Pinnacle XMT are actually made for RO/DA machines and will probably dust and dry out too fast with a rotary.Jeff92se
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Yes I'm aware. I'd say using wool pads are the most dangerous. Originally Posted by tod071
And you can some extreme damage with the rotary if not used properly. Just remember to keep moving and don't lose concentration with the rotary.
Quote:
Other than that, yes, the rotary does have some crazy correction ability.
Optimum products are great for rotary use because it has a long work time. Other products like Pinnacle XMT are actually made for RO/DA machines and will probably dust and dry out too fast with a rotary.
I'm not 100% but some Pinnacle products state you have to use a 3,000 approx rpm. Now THAT is dangerous. And I don't think DAs have the ability to spin that high. Other than that, yes, the rotary does have some crazy correction ability.
Optimum products are great for rotary use because it has a long work time. Other products like Pinnacle XMT are actually made for RO/DA machines and will probably dust and dry out too fast with a rotary.
My RO only goes up to 2k. But I use 1500rpm. Which even then is a bit high for Optimium products. ie.. 1,000-1,400 rpm
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So I just got done with a marathon session. I actually had to go down to a green/Optimim compound on the hood. I did the hood/front fenders this way. Then orange/Optimim polish. Then blue/Optimum Poli-Seal. The rest of the car I just did the last two steps.
Question. When using the green/organge pads, they got clogged with polish and started hopping and leaving junk on the paint. How do you clean these pads and what can you do if you are right in the middle of your detailing session?
Question. When using the green/organge pads, they got clogged with polish and started hopping and leaving junk on the paint. How do you clean these pads and what can you do if you are right in the middle of your detailing session?
Former G35driver Vendor
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Many high end detailers are converting to using multiple pads per detail. I personally use 4 on a mid sized vehicle. Some top notch detailers swap out a new pad every panel, for example, Kevin from GTA in Detail.Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Question. When using the green/organge pads, they got clogged with polish and started hopping and leaving junk on the paint. How do you clean these pads and what can you do if you are right in the middle of your detailing session?
You can clean them between panels with a nylon brush but swapping them out for a clean pad guarantees the best results.
George
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Ah thanks. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong. I do have Edge pads to I can flip them over. So that gives me 2. But I think 3 would be required for something sized like a G.
Jeff, not sure if you looked at this site, but its highly recommended to learn alot of the stuff your asking about.
www.autopia.org
www.autopia.org
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Jeff, if you need to clean them in the middle of a detail, wash with dishwashing soap or laundry soap, then throw them on the rotary, turn rpms down, and then turn it on, all the water will spin out of the pad
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Yeah, that's what I'm gathering I'd have to do. After awhile, they were skipping like rocks.
The green/orange pads are so stiff that I had a hard time keeping the pad flat enough to get a decent contact path. I had to tilt them a tiny bit and that resulted in a really small contact patch.
Not like the softer blue pad where I could actually keep the pad pretty flat.
The green/orange pads are so stiff that I had a hard time keeping the pad flat enough to get a decent contact path. I had to tilt them a tiny bit and that resulted in a really small contact patch.
Not like the softer blue pad where I could actually keep the pad pretty flat.
Registered User
Quote: ... I'd say using wool pads are the most dangerous.
Foam Pad Type Pros & Cons:
Wool:
Pro-faster cutting generates less heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler.
Removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad
Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.
Con- can leave micro marring (buffer trails)
Foam:
Pro- gentle (non-aggressive) light to moderate cutting
Con- heat paint quickly leaving the paint surface with a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP)
General note- Cut with wool pads – Finish with foam pads
Foam Pad Type Pros & Cons:
Wool:
Pro-faster cutting generates less heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler.
Removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad
Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.
Con- can leave micro marring (buffer trails)
Foam:
Pro- gentle (non-aggressive) light to moderate cutting
Con- heat paint quickly leaving the paint surface with a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP)
General note- Cut with wool pads – Finish with foam pads
Jeff92se
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking of doing just that if I come across any blemishes I can get with the foam.
The danger part I was referring to was the edge burn. In my limited experience, I found it easier to catch an edge with a wool vs foam pad.
The danger part I was referring to was the edge burn. In my limited experience, I found it easier to catch an edge with a wool vs foam pad.
Quote:
Foam Pad Type Pros & Cons:
Wool:
Pro-faster cutting generates less heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler.
Removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad
Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.
Con- can leave micro marring (buffer trails)
Foam:
Pro- gentle (non-aggressive) light to moderate cutting
Con- heat paint quickly leaving the paint surface with a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP)
General note- Cut with wool pads – Finish with foam pads
Originally Posted by TOGWT
Quote: ... I'd say using wool pads are the most dangerous.Foam Pad Type Pros & Cons:
Wool:
Pro-faster cutting generates less heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler.
Removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad
Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.
Con- can leave micro marring (buffer trails)
Foam:
Pro- gentle (non-aggressive) light to moderate cutting
Con- heat paint quickly leaving the paint surface with a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP)
General note- Cut with wool pads – Finish with foam pads
Registered User
Quote:
My RO only goes up to 2k. But I use 1500rpm. Which even then is a bit high for Optimium products. ie.. 1,000-1,400 rpm
The XMT line says to use a maximum of 5000-5500 OPM, Orbits per minute, not RPM. Meaning its supposed to be used with a DA and not a rotary.Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm not 100% but some Pinnacle products state you have to use a 3,000 approx rpm. Now THAT is dangerous. And I don't think DAs have the ability to spin that high. My RO only goes up to 2k. But I use 1500rpm. Which even then is a bit high for Optimium products. ie.. 1,000-1,400 rpm
Quote:
I agree with others to either change pads or clean them and dry them on the machine. Drying them on the machine actually keeps the pad primed with the leftover water. Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Question. When using the green/organge pads, they got clogged with polish and started hopping and leaving junk on the paint. How do you clean these pads and what can you do if you are right in the middle of your detailing session?
Another thing to consider is the possibility of using too much product. If you use too much, it could also cause the pad to cake up. Keep the pad primed and work the product very good.
