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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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crspotless

Did a quick search, but came up with very little. Anyone know anything about this product, or if it actually works like they say? I would much rather prefer this method over drying any day!

http://crspotless.com/ is the website...
 
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Before bed bump...
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 12:03 AM
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it should work fine, but rather expensive just so you don't have to dry your car. You also have to replace the resin over time
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:51 AM
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It would be good if you want to do a fast wash and wax for a customer. Some people use regular water from the garden hose to do the first rinse and then after washing you rinse it with the CR spotless system.
 

Last edited by Scrooge; Oct 10, 2007 at 01:53 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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If you're running the garden hose water over it anyway, why not just let the hose sheet the water off, and then mf towel it? Takes me all of 5 minutes to dry off my car :/
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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Well with the CR spotless system, You reduce the chance's of giving the car swirls. Cause you don't need to touch the car after you rinsed it.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 05:36 AM
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The CR Spotless DI100WM provides approximately 100 gallons of mineral-free, de-ionized water that will provide spot-free vehicle washing and remove hard water minerals, based on your water input quality. It consists of two 10-inch de-ionization housings that feature replaceable cartridges that simply slide into the watertight tubes. This unit can be mounted next to your hose bib and comes with pre-drilled mounting holes.

Operating costs formula -
Operating costs = 235,000 / TDS * 0.33 cubic feet of resin = Gallons
Cost of refill / Gallons = Final cost of de-ionized water

Using the above formula - hard water area with a total dissolved solids (TDD) meter reading of 550 PPM = (235,000/550) 0.33 cubic feet of resin = 141 gallons. Approximate cost of refill $90, de-ionized water costs me about 65 cents per gallon. Average final rinse 3-5 gallons
http://www.crspotless.com/index
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:15 AM
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I have it and it works great! I don't have to go wipe the car dry, which helps with reducing swirls AND it saves me a hellot of time in my details. Wash, clay, rinse and allow to dry in sun.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:17 AM
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I saw a thread about this before.

I also think it's too expensive for the car.

MR. Clean car wash kit works just fine.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
The CR Spotless DI100WM provides approximately 100 gallons of mineral-free, de-ionized water that will provide spot-free vehicle washing and remove hard water minerals, based on your water input quality. It consists of two 10-inch de-ionization housings that feature replaceable cartridges that simply slide into the watertight tubes. This unit can be mounted next to your hose bib and comes with pre-drilled mounting holes.

Operating costs formula -
Operating costs = 235,000 / TDS * 0.33 cubic feet of resin = Gallons
Cost of refill / Gallons = Final cost of de-ionized water

Using the above formula - hard water area with a total dissolved solids (TDD) meter reading of 550 PPM = (235,000/550) 0.33 cubic feet of resin = 141 gallons. Approximate cost of refill $90, de-ionized water costs me about 65 cents per gallon. Average final rinse 3-5 gallons
http://www.crspotless.com/index
Haha, soooo...are you FOR, or AGAINST? hahaha. And yea, it does seem expensive, but i think it would make up for it by not having to deal with those annoying water spots.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvettekid
Haha, soooo...are you FOR, or AGAINST? hahaha. And yea, it does seem expensive, but i think it would make up for it by not having to deal with those annoying water spots.
wouldn't it be easier to just dry your car correctly I don't have one of those, and I don't get waterspots....
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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It removes the minerals but if you still have water on your car, any dust will catch on the water and will be left on the car after the water finally dries off?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
It removes the minerals but if you still have water on your car, any dust will catch on the water and will be left on the car after the water finally dries off?
Just wondering. Have you tried this system and also have you seen the water spot where the dust got caught on to the water ????
 
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
wouldn't it be easier to just dry your car correctly I don't have one of those, and I don't get waterspots....
That depends on where you're located, here, the water is extremely hard, spots form quickly, especially when it's hot. This is what the self serve car washes use for final rinse, but when I use them, I use only the spot free rinse, the pressure is fine. If you figure how much it costs to use the car wash every week, this may pay for itself! It is rather expensive.
And, as far as swirls go, if you wash the car well, and dry with a good microfiber towel, you won't get swirls, from my experience, you get swirls from polishing and waxing more than drying. Right now at home, I use a water softening hose filter to wash, and rinse, then de-ionized water from a pump sprayer for the final rinse, I buy the water by the gallon, around $0.79 per gallon, been using that for about 10 years now.
 

Last edited by ABQ_G35; Oct 27, 2007 at 01:50 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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No. But I've let my car dry during a high pollen count day. And you can see where the pollen settles on the drops. Since the pollen is very visible (yellow), you can see how the pollen would act just like dust. My theory anyway

Originally Posted by Scrooge
Just wondering. Have you tried this system and also have you seen the water spot where the dust got caught on to the water ????
 
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