New GT-R: Complete Detail (acid rain damage, repainted area) Black R35
#1
09-03-2008, 08:22 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Florida
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New GT-R: Complete Detail (acid rain damage, repainted area) Black R35
Very few cars in the history have caused such a reaction at model launch and introduction as does this Nissan GT-R. The new ‘bang for the bucket’ Super Car, the Nissan manages this feat while cramming the car full of cutting edge technology and more wizardry then any car in it’s class, at any price. In person this car is stunning, period. It is a uniquely Japanese twist on a market dominated by the graceful Italians, the proper English, and brute Americans. Not only does it best most competitors on the track at any price, it dethrones the current ‘bang for the buck’ Corvette Z06. The G-TR defeats its worthy opponent on all fronts despite having less power, more weight, and a front heavy weight distribution. Only the culture that brought us into the digital age could use that expertise to hone such physical limitations: When it doubt, use a computer. In this case the GT-R is iconic.
Corvettes struggle to be more European. European cars get heavier and more powerful, like a good American. The more these cars change, the closer they become. The GT-R is a fresh approach and makes no excuses. With an infusion of technology, physicals, and technical brilliance, Nissan has presented a modern Samurai who will proudly carry the flag of the Rising Sun, while bowing to no one.
Unfortunately Nissan did not have all of its technicians ready to service this technological marvel, and as such this Samurai had a few ****** in its armor. An alarming number of these cars sat at port, waiting to be shipped. Unfortunately the fresh, unprotected paint (especially the soft front, designed to resist rock chipping) is very sucsepticable to acid rain damage. This GT-R suffered as such. It already had 2000 miles on it when it arrived at 11:00 PM, Saturday night.
Because of the inclement weather, the GT-R arrived pretty dirty. I washed it using Optimum No-Rinse using two buckets. After drying, I noticed some pretty severe damage in different areas of the car, including light holograms, acid rain etching, R.ID.S. (Random isolated deep scratches), and light wash induced marring. I attempted to remove and loosen some of the calcium present in the water etching by using Meguiars’ Blue Clay and Chemical Guys’ Speed Shine as a lubricant.
There was no improvement in the surface; a vinegar natural bath removed some of the lighter marks and left the paint bare and smooth. The acid rain had penetrated the clear-coat, forming depressions in the paint. This damage was numerous and severe.
In the rear spoiler you can see the severe etching, as well “hologramming” on the edges, likely from the dealer trying to remove the etching (note that these pictures are taken in UV garage light).
The panels above the doors, out line of the roof, and any area that was not covered in shipping showed severe damage.
The areas of the body panels that where protected by the factory installed plastic where also notably darker in appearance and had not faded. Apparently the new GT-R’s paint system will be susceptible to fading. It looks like two different colors.
Looking at this picture you would think I just pulled the plastic off of the car in my garage. Several months with out protection has ruined the paint on this brand new Super Car!
It is very clear to see what had protection and what was left naked and damaged. The rear of the roof had some deeper scratches.
This area, in front of the rear spoiler, shows the difference in color as well as the damage.
Some light marring was visible on the both sides, likely installed by the dealer when the removed the plastic.
The roof had some streaky marks in the paint that looked almost like ‘runs’ in the top coat.
These run marks where also on each door, near the door handle. On the door ‘runs’ a texture difference could be felt by running your hand over the area.
The driver’s side rear quarter panel had evidence of the poor polishing in the terms of buffer trails or ‘hologramming’. There was also another defect above this area, which was an impression in the paint where the protective plastic had been.
This area was actually depressed into the paint and an edge could be felt where the tape was on the paint. As I would later learn when polishing the paint, the finish in this area was extremely soft. Combined with the buffer trails and texture, I would guess that this area was probably repainted on the factory line (perhaps a run or defect was present in the paint) then the polished. The car was the covered in the protective film for shipping before the paint had hardened. This would explain the buffer trails, softer paint (only in this area), and lip.
I finished the night be carefully measuring the paint thickness on the various panels that make up the G-TR’s armor. Because the body is made of aluminum, steel, and in some areas carbon fiber, it was impossible to measure every area. Nissan claims that the R35 G-TR features a “double clear coat” and the paint measuring bore this true. The paint averaged about 6.5 mils of the thickness, with the leading edge of the hood reading as high as 9.4 mils. At 3:00 am, with inspection finished, I called it a night.
I started four hours later, at 7:00 am on Sunday morning. I knew today would be solely dedicated to re-leveling the paint and removing as many defects as possible. I did not expect the day to run into early the next day, but there was a lot of work to be done. The car had to be finished by evening the next day, as the owner had business in South Florida, before shipping the Samurai to St. Croix in the Caribbean.
Despite dancing through the cones of a salmon course and turning an amazing 1.05gs (Motortrend) on a skid pad, the G-TR is a big car. At 183.2 inches long it barely fit into my garage, so I decided to perfect the rear bumper first (to allow me the luxury of closing the garage door and having enough room to work around the rest of the car comfortably).
The rear bumper had water etching, slightly more severe in depth then most of the car.
The Obsidian Black paint looked gray and noticeably lighter then paint squares of paint that had protective film.
The paint on the rear bumper was very soft and corrected with ease. It was a little difficult to finish out hologram free because of the softness. The process was similar to
-2500 grit Meguiars’ Unigrit paper was used to level the slight texture around the squares
-3M Extra Cut on a Meguiars’ Yellow Wool Pad for 2 to 5 passes, working each area until the water etching had been eliminated.
-Meguiars’ M105 on a Lake Country Foamed Wool Pad was used for 2 to 3 passes in the tighter areas that I could not re-level properly with the larger Meguiars’ Wool pad.
-Wipe areas with Prep-Sol after
-Menzerna PO83 on a Lake Country Green CCS pad (both 6.5 inch and 4 inch) for several passes to level out the wool marring. This was worked in until the paint looked perfect after a Prep-Sol wipe down. PO83 was lightly filling in some areas, but two passes would remove the final remaining marring, ensuring it would not come back.
-Menzerna PO85rd on a Meguiars So1o Finishing Pad worked in to jewel the finish.
Please note that the paint on the car was very prone to static charge was pulling the fibers from my microfibers. These little fibers stuck to the paint on the rear bumper and I did not remove then until after I took the pictures.
It took about 4 hours to work the rear bumper back to perfection and remove the squares while restoring the color.
The gas cap was noticeably darker then the rest of the faded paint.
After polishing (note defect removal visible in the halogens) the paint looked closer. In the sun and natural light the car gas cap now looks the same, but in the halogen lighting a small difference was still visible.
Corvettes struggle to be more European. European cars get heavier and more powerful, like a good American. The more these cars change, the closer they become. The GT-R is a fresh approach and makes no excuses. With an infusion of technology, physicals, and technical brilliance, Nissan has presented a modern Samurai who will proudly carry the flag of the Rising Sun, while bowing to no one.
Unfortunately Nissan did not have all of its technicians ready to service this technological marvel, and as such this Samurai had a few ****** in its armor. An alarming number of these cars sat at port, waiting to be shipped. Unfortunately the fresh, unprotected paint (especially the soft front, designed to resist rock chipping) is very sucsepticable to acid rain damage. This GT-R suffered as such. It already had 2000 miles on it when it arrived at 11:00 PM, Saturday night.
Because of the inclement weather, the GT-R arrived pretty dirty. I washed it using Optimum No-Rinse using two buckets. After drying, I noticed some pretty severe damage in different areas of the car, including light holograms, acid rain etching, R.ID.S. (Random isolated deep scratches), and light wash induced marring. I attempted to remove and loosen some of the calcium present in the water etching by using Meguiars’ Blue Clay and Chemical Guys’ Speed Shine as a lubricant.
There was no improvement in the surface; a vinegar natural bath removed some of the lighter marks and left the paint bare and smooth. The acid rain had penetrated the clear-coat, forming depressions in the paint. This damage was numerous and severe.
In the rear spoiler you can see the severe etching, as well “hologramming” on the edges, likely from the dealer trying to remove the etching (note that these pictures are taken in UV garage light).
The panels above the doors, out line of the roof, and any area that was not covered in shipping showed severe damage.
The areas of the body panels that where protected by the factory installed plastic where also notably darker in appearance and had not faded. Apparently the new GT-R’s paint system will be susceptible to fading. It looks like two different colors.
Looking at this picture you would think I just pulled the plastic off of the car in my garage. Several months with out protection has ruined the paint on this brand new Super Car!
It is very clear to see what had protection and what was left naked and damaged. The rear of the roof had some deeper scratches.
This area, in front of the rear spoiler, shows the difference in color as well as the damage.
Some light marring was visible on the both sides, likely installed by the dealer when the removed the plastic.
The roof had some streaky marks in the paint that looked almost like ‘runs’ in the top coat.
These run marks where also on each door, near the door handle. On the door ‘runs’ a texture difference could be felt by running your hand over the area.
The driver’s side rear quarter panel had evidence of the poor polishing in the terms of buffer trails or ‘hologramming’. There was also another defect above this area, which was an impression in the paint where the protective plastic had been.
This area was actually depressed into the paint and an edge could be felt where the tape was on the paint. As I would later learn when polishing the paint, the finish in this area was extremely soft. Combined with the buffer trails and texture, I would guess that this area was probably repainted on the factory line (perhaps a run or defect was present in the paint) then the polished. The car was the covered in the protective film for shipping before the paint had hardened. This would explain the buffer trails, softer paint (only in this area), and lip.
I finished the night be carefully measuring the paint thickness on the various panels that make up the G-TR’s armor. Because the body is made of aluminum, steel, and in some areas carbon fiber, it was impossible to measure every area. Nissan claims that the R35 G-TR features a “double clear coat” and the paint measuring bore this true. The paint averaged about 6.5 mils of the thickness, with the leading edge of the hood reading as high as 9.4 mils. At 3:00 am, with inspection finished, I called it a night.
I started four hours later, at 7:00 am on Sunday morning. I knew today would be solely dedicated to re-leveling the paint and removing as many defects as possible. I did not expect the day to run into early the next day, but there was a lot of work to be done. The car had to be finished by evening the next day, as the owner had business in South Florida, before shipping the Samurai to St. Croix in the Caribbean.
Despite dancing through the cones of a salmon course and turning an amazing 1.05gs (Motortrend) on a skid pad, the G-TR is a big car. At 183.2 inches long it barely fit into my garage, so I decided to perfect the rear bumper first (to allow me the luxury of closing the garage door and having enough room to work around the rest of the car comfortably).
The rear bumper had water etching, slightly more severe in depth then most of the car.
The Obsidian Black paint looked gray and noticeably lighter then paint squares of paint that had protective film.
The paint on the rear bumper was very soft and corrected with ease. It was a little difficult to finish out hologram free because of the softness. The process was similar to
-2500 grit Meguiars’ Unigrit paper was used to level the slight texture around the squares
-3M Extra Cut on a Meguiars’ Yellow Wool Pad for 2 to 5 passes, working each area until the water etching had been eliminated.
-Meguiars’ M105 on a Lake Country Foamed Wool Pad was used for 2 to 3 passes in the tighter areas that I could not re-level properly with the larger Meguiars’ Wool pad.
-Wipe areas with Prep-Sol after
-Menzerna PO83 on a Lake Country Green CCS pad (both 6.5 inch and 4 inch) for several passes to level out the wool marring. This was worked in until the paint looked perfect after a Prep-Sol wipe down. PO83 was lightly filling in some areas, but two passes would remove the final remaining marring, ensuring it would not come back.
-Menzerna PO85rd on a Meguiars So1o Finishing Pad worked in to jewel the finish.
Please note that the paint on the car was very prone to static charge was pulling the fibers from my microfibers. These little fibers stuck to the paint on the rear bumper and I did not remove then until after I took the pictures.
It took about 4 hours to work the rear bumper back to perfection and remove the squares while restoring the color.
The gas cap was noticeably darker then the rest of the faded paint.
After polishing (note defect removal visible in the halogens) the paint looked closer. In the sun and natural light the car gas cap now looks the same, but in the halogen lighting a small difference was still visible.
#2
09-03-2008, 08:24 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
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The main body panels of the Nissan featured paint that was noticeably harder then the ultra soft bumpers. Meguiars M105 did not respond well on the paint, tending the cake and clump on the paint. Also, despite being harder then the bumpers, the paint did not favor wool pads for the re-leveling.
In general my process was similar to this for the main body: fenders, doors, roof and hood.
-Areas with deep etching and scratching where sanded with Meguiars’ Unigrit 2000/2500/3000 grits as well Micro Abrasives 4000 grit and 6000 grits
-Meguiars’ M095 on a Lake Country Orange Pad (7.5 inch or 4 inch) for 2 to 4 passes
Or
-3M Extra Cut on a Meguiars’ Red So1o Wool Pad on areas that where severally etched or previously sanded (this was followed by M95 on an Orange Pad)
-Menzerna PO83 on a Lake Country Green Eurofoam Pad for 1 to 3 passes until the paint was perfect after a Prep-Sol wipe down.
Because of time limitations, I did not have time to document the work as well as I would have liked. A lot of sanding, polishing, sanding, and more and more polishing…
The rear quarter panel before…
And after…
Here I am working with a four inch pad, under the rear spoiler.
PO83 and Green Eurofoam (combined with a lot of patience) did a great job restoring gloss and clarity after re-leveling the paint.
As I worked feverishly on the paint, never stopping (my goal was to finish re-leveling the paint and polishing with P083 before the day ended) I was lucking to have the help of Mark (moutee).
He was a great helping, polishing the water spots on all the glass with Zaino Z-12 and a Porter Cable.
Mark also polished the gray paint on the front as well as under the splitter with a Porter Cable and Menzerna PO106ff on a while Lake Country Pad.
The front bumper had the worst etching of all, with deep acid rain marks that penetrated deep into the top coat. The entire front bumper was sanded with 3200 grit pads from Micro Abrasives, followed by 4000 grit and 6000 grit. Even in this picture of the bumper, little dots of extremely deep etching remain (not to be confused by the waffle pattern from the orange peel). I should note that the paint was extremely soft on the front bumper as well, and compounding with a wool pad actually hazed the paint greater then the sand paper. However P083 quickly snapped the paint back shape.
By 7:30 PM the majority of the paint was re-leveled and polished. The GT-R looked noticeably better and darker (and the bumper was re-finished perfectly) even when still masked with tape.
Mark stuck around to help me wash the polishing dust (and the various abrasives it carried) off the car. As I finished polishing the paint, Mark attacked the wheels with a vengeance. Each wheel was sprayed with liberal amounts of PS21 Wheel Gel and agitated with a Swissvax Wheel Brush. The barrels where agitated with an EZ Detail Wheel Brush. Mark was very meticulous, like tdkenay himself was standing next to him, pointing out any spec of remaining brake dust.
The Gel was left to dwell while I polished and worked the paint towards perfection.
After an incredibly long day, the car was pulled outside and foamed with a high alkaline soap using a Gilmour Foam Gun.
The car was the rinsed with a 1500 Karcher using pure, de-ionized water to remove any polishing dust with out the fear of re-introducing any water spots.
Mark left for the day around 8:30 PM and I pulled the GT-R in to continue polishing.
-Menzerna PO106fa on a Lake Country White Pad over the entire car, 1 pass, worked long to burnish the paint
A picture of the car after 106fa, early the next morning… This is what it should have looked when it arrived at house 24 hours previous.
Finally the car was pulled back out and rewashed for a final time using the pressure washer and de-ionized water.
Picture taken at 2:30 AM Monday Morning, after the second rinsing…
After washing, I had noticed that wheels did not have there potential gloss. A little Menzerna PO85u and a green foam pad with a lot of hand greatly enhanced the gloss of the rims, removing all the contamination from the rims.
This was followed by a hand polished coat of Jeff Werkstatt Prime Strong, which was also worked into the glass by PC. After removal, both the glass and rims, and brake calipers received 3 coats of Rejex Sealant (8 hours apart). After removing the first coat of Rejex from the wheels and glass, I called it a night.
In general my process was similar to this for the main body: fenders, doors, roof and hood.
-Areas with deep etching and scratching where sanded with Meguiars’ Unigrit 2000/2500/3000 grits as well Micro Abrasives 4000 grit and 6000 grits
-Meguiars’ M095 on a Lake Country Orange Pad (7.5 inch or 4 inch) for 2 to 4 passes
Or
-3M Extra Cut on a Meguiars’ Red So1o Wool Pad on areas that where severally etched or previously sanded (this was followed by M95 on an Orange Pad)
-Menzerna PO83 on a Lake Country Green Eurofoam Pad for 1 to 3 passes until the paint was perfect after a Prep-Sol wipe down.
Because of time limitations, I did not have time to document the work as well as I would have liked. A lot of sanding, polishing, sanding, and more and more polishing…
The rear quarter panel before…
And after…
Here I am working with a four inch pad, under the rear spoiler.
PO83 and Green Eurofoam (combined with a lot of patience) did a great job restoring gloss and clarity after re-leveling the paint.
As I worked feverishly on the paint, never stopping (my goal was to finish re-leveling the paint and polishing with P083 before the day ended) I was lucking to have the help of Mark (moutee).
He was a great helping, polishing the water spots on all the glass with Zaino Z-12 and a Porter Cable.
Mark also polished the gray paint on the front as well as under the splitter with a Porter Cable and Menzerna PO106ff on a while Lake Country Pad.
The front bumper had the worst etching of all, with deep acid rain marks that penetrated deep into the top coat. The entire front bumper was sanded with 3200 grit pads from Micro Abrasives, followed by 4000 grit and 6000 grit. Even in this picture of the bumper, little dots of extremely deep etching remain (not to be confused by the waffle pattern from the orange peel). I should note that the paint was extremely soft on the front bumper as well, and compounding with a wool pad actually hazed the paint greater then the sand paper. However P083 quickly snapped the paint back shape.
By 7:30 PM the majority of the paint was re-leveled and polished. The GT-R looked noticeably better and darker (and the bumper was re-finished perfectly) even when still masked with tape.
Mark stuck around to help me wash the polishing dust (and the various abrasives it carried) off the car. As I finished polishing the paint, Mark attacked the wheels with a vengeance. Each wheel was sprayed with liberal amounts of PS21 Wheel Gel and agitated with a Swissvax Wheel Brush. The barrels where agitated with an EZ Detail Wheel Brush. Mark was very meticulous, like tdkenay himself was standing next to him, pointing out any spec of remaining brake dust.
The Gel was left to dwell while I polished and worked the paint towards perfection.
After an incredibly long day, the car was pulled outside and foamed with a high alkaline soap using a Gilmour Foam Gun.
The car was the rinsed with a 1500 Karcher using pure, de-ionized water to remove any polishing dust with out the fear of re-introducing any water spots.
Mark left for the day around 8:30 PM and I pulled the GT-R in to continue polishing.
-Menzerna PO106fa on a Lake Country White Pad over the entire car, 1 pass, worked long to burnish the paint
A picture of the car after 106fa, early the next morning… This is what it should have looked when it arrived at house 24 hours previous.
Finally the car was pulled back out and rewashed for a final time using the pressure washer and de-ionized water.
Picture taken at 2:30 AM Monday Morning, after the second rinsing…
After washing, I had noticed that wheels did not have there potential gloss. A little Menzerna PO85u and a green foam pad with a lot of hand greatly enhanced the gloss of the rims, removing all the contamination from the rims.
This was followed by a hand polished coat of Jeff Werkstatt Prime Strong, which was also worked into the glass by PC. After removal, both the glass and rims, and brake calipers received 3 coats of Rejex Sealant (8 hours apart). After removing the first coat of Rejex from the wheels and glass, I called it a night.
#3
09-03-2008, 08:25 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
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The third and final day started around 8:00 am.
-Menzerna PO85rd on a Meguiars So1o Finishing Pad, jewelling step
-Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite on a Lake Country Red foam pad, via PC
After jewelling the paint with Menzerna and refining the last ounce of gloss from the black, I treated the paint with Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite to prepare the surface to accept the wax. PO85rd does not dust much, so 45 minutes or so with a q-tip and couple towels ensured all residue was removed.
Mark finished the wheels with a final coat of Rejex and topped the freshly scrubbed tires with Zaino Z16 Perfect Tire Gloss for two coats with a foam application. A cotton swab was used to dress the tire lip where the bead presses into the wheel itself.
Two coats of Dodo Juice Supernatural V2 where carefully wiped onto the paint, let to haze, and then removed. Misting the paint with chilled water (pure de-ionized water) helped set the wax and leveled the gloss to a very deep shine.
The exhaust tips where polished by Mark’s fingers, using Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Polish.
As I noted, the wheels received the same treatment as the paint and desperately needed it. If you compare the original photos of the car from the first night, you will notice the rims where flat and dull looking. After being rubbed free of contaminants with Sonus gray clay and hand polished with Menzerna, they had regained a lot of the luster (or had more luster) then when shipped from Japan. Werkstatt Prime layered with 3 coats of Rejex gave the rims a liquid wet shine that was truly miles deep and amazingly reflective.
Here is the BEFORE picture of the roof, complete with damage…
And the AFTER picture in similar lighting…
With the paint as polished as diamond and topped with a quality wax, the reflections in the garage looked almost unbelievable.
Some of the products used on this detail, reflected perfectly.
I didn’t get a chance (or have the time to do anything but a quick wipe down) to really detail the interior, but I did want to take some pictures that I thought you guys would enjoy.
-Menzerna PO85rd on a Meguiars So1o Finishing Pad, jewelling step
-Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite on a Lake Country Red foam pad, via PC
After jewelling the paint with Menzerna and refining the last ounce of gloss from the black, I treated the paint with Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite to prepare the surface to accept the wax. PO85rd does not dust much, so 45 minutes or so with a q-tip and couple towels ensured all residue was removed.
Mark finished the wheels with a final coat of Rejex and topped the freshly scrubbed tires with Zaino Z16 Perfect Tire Gloss for two coats with a foam application. A cotton swab was used to dress the tire lip where the bead presses into the wheel itself.
Two coats of Dodo Juice Supernatural V2 where carefully wiped onto the paint, let to haze, and then removed. Misting the paint with chilled water (pure de-ionized water) helped set the wax and leveled the gloss to a very deep shine.
The exhaust tips where polished by Mark’s fingers, using Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Polish.
As I noted, the wheels received the same treatment as the paint and desperately needed it. If you compare the original photos of the car from the first night, you will notice the rims where flat and dull looking. After being rubbed free of contaminants with Sonus gray clay and hand polished with Menzerna, they had regained a lot of the luster (or had more luster) then when shipped from Japan. Werkstatt Prime layered with 3 coats of Rejex gave the rims a liquid wet shine that was truly miles deep and amazingly reflective.
Here is the BEFORE picture of the roof, complete with damage…
And the AFTER picture in similar lighting…
With the paint as polished as diamond and topped with a quality wax, the reflections in the garage looked almost unbelievable.
Some of the products used on this detail, reflected perfectly.
I didn’t get a chance (or have the time to do anything but a quick wipe down) to really detail the interior, but I did want to take some pictures that I thought you guys would enjoy.
#4
09-03-2008, 08:26 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
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The VR38DETT V6 features twin intercooled turbochargers and produces an underrated 480 horsepower and a flat torque curve. A quick clean up with ONR was the most we had time for.
After a careful walk around and inspection under halogen light, I pulled the GT-R out to take a couple photographs. The rest of these are after shots and need no explanation.
After a careful walk around and inspection under halogen light, I pulled the GT-R out to take a couple photographs. The rest of these are after shots and need no explanation.
#5
09-03-2008, 08:27 AM
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The end, sort of….
The owner graciously agreed to take the GT-R to nearby park (despite being on a tight time schedule and impending rain) to take even more photos!
A good view of “depth” as defined by jetting or distortion from a carnauba wax is visible in this picture. To make the reflections crystal clear, I had to focus into the paint, which knocked the door handle out of focus. This is because the camera “sees” the reflection as much further away (or deeper) then the surface of the paint.
The owner graciously agreed to take the GT-R to nearby park (despite being on a tight time schedule and impending rain) to take even more photos!
A good view of “depth” as defined by jetting or distortion from a carnauba wax is visible in this picture. To make the reflections crystal clear, I had to focus into the paint, which knocked the door handle out of focus. This is because the camera “sees” the reflection as much further away (or deeper) then the surface of the paint.
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09-03-2008, 08:45 AM
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#8
09-03-2008, 08:49 AM
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#9
09-03-2008, 09:00 AM
#12
09-03-2008, 10:53 AM
