Black = swirls!
Black = swirls!
Can someone please explain to me what the best way to keep my <font color=black>black</font color=black> paint looking like new? My car is almost 2 months old and I already have swirls! Any as far as the wheels go, they are really a lost cause until I get new brake pads. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Thank you
-Joe Avino
Also... Anyone live in the NJ area close to NYC?
Thank you
-Joe Avino
Also... Anyone live in the NJ area close to NYC?
Re: Black = swirls!
Never go to the the carwash or have the dealer wash you car. Most of the swirl mark that appears on dark color cars are caused by improper technique when washing the car. Get some mircofiber towels. Cheapest one I've seen is http://www.microfibertech.com
I copied this from another forum in how to wash a car:
I recommend 3M's General purpose adhesive cleaner. It will help you safely remove the tar. Scrubbing tar spots is NOT recommended. You'll end up removing some tar and putting it on your wash mit. Then this tar will be rubbed back and forth over your paint causing an even bigger problem.
I highly recommend washing your car yourself. Here are some tips:
Wash the wheels, tires, and wheel wells first. You'll probably need two 100% cotton chenille wash mits to accomplish this. Do the wheels first so that when you rise them off, you're not splatering dirty water all over clean body panels. Do NOT use these wash mits on the rest of the car! I do not recommend any "spray on" wheel cleaners. (If you can wash your vehicle enough, you can render spray on cleaners useless because the less harsh car wash solution will do the trick.)
Buy some Pinnacle microfiber wash mits from AutoGeek. You can do the car with one, but I recommend using three (one for the top surfaces, one for the front and one side, and one for the rear and the other side). I actually own several because I often wash both cars and I don't re-use the mits until I wash them in the washing machine. These mits will minimize the amount of dirt that is swept across the surface of the paint, creating scratches. The web site to buy them from is:
http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Use a good quality car wash that does not strip wax. (Car wash will strip wax if you use enough, even if it is of the highest quality. Make sure to dillute it properly with water.)
Use three buckets. Fill the first with plain water to rinse off the dirty mit. Fill the next one with soapy water to wash the dirty mit. Fill the third with soapy water to prime the mit for the next usage.
Wash your car in the shade.
When you wash, use motions from the front to the back (and vice versa). Do not use circular or side to side motions. Do not wipe the same surface over again. This only drags the dirt picked up by the mit over the surface again.
After you clean half a panel, turn the mit over and clean the other half. After each panel, go through the three buckets to completely clean and re-prime the mit. Rinse immediately after each panel so the soap does not dry on your car.
If any spots are left over after you wipe them (such as a dead bug), leave them there. After you dry the car, clean these spots separately with some quick detailer and a microfiber cloth. (This perhaps I don't agree with. To me, the washing environment is more safe because you are using lots of soap suds and water. There is less chance of scratching, especially if you use some water pressure.)
Wash the lowest surfaces on the car last (such as below the facia, under the bumper, and under the side skirts). These are usually filty and fill the mit with dirt that could scratch more visible places on your car. (A lot of people use a completely different mitt because of the dirt)
Use the "perfect drying technique" described on the Autopia website.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showt...=&threadid=5120
Some use a high-powered leaf blower to move most of the water off the car. This works well, but you need to be careful not to over use it and create water spots. A California water blade can also be used to help you safely remove most of the left over water. (debated, so use at your own risk, good for windows)
Use waffle-weave microfiber towels to dry the remaining water off the car. JT International (888-989-4584) sells great microfiber towels and they're really inexpensive. Blot, do not wipe, the remaining beads of water off the car. Blotting is more effective and helps insure that any dust that has settled on the car isn't wiped across the surface. An air compressor will help you blow out any remaining water in hard to reach areas (such as side mirrors, trim, license plates, door jams, behind chrome lettering, etc.)
I want to reiterate the imporance of using microfiber towels, wash mits, and applicators. I won't let anything else touch my car.
Also, waxing your car frequently will help prevent dirt sticking to your car and ease the removal of rinse water. (Some waxes actually attract dirt, more so than others, but it does make it easier to remove)
G35C 6MT / E55<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by wreck on 05/01/03 07:10 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
I copied this from another forum in how to wash a car:
I recommend 3M's General purpose adhesive cleaner. It will help you safely remove the tar. Scrubbing tar spots is NOT recommended. You'll end up removing some tar and putting it on your wash mit. Then this tar will be rubbed back and forth over your paint causing an even bigger problem.
I highly recommend washing your car yourself. Here are some tips:
Wash the wheels, tires, and wheel wells first. You'll probably need two 100% cotton chenille wash mits to accomplish this. Do the wheels first so that when you rise them off, you're not splatering dirty water all over clean body panels. Do NOT use these wash mits on the rest of the car! I do not recommend any "spray on" wheel cleaners. (If you can wash your vehicle enough, you can render spray on cleaners useless because the less harsh car wash solution will do the trick.)
Buy some Pinnacle microfiber wash mits from AutoGeek. You can do the car with one, but I recommend using three (one for the top surfaces, one for the front and one side, and one for the rear and the other side). I actually own several because I often wash both cars and I don't re-use the mits until I wash them in the washing machine. These mits will minimize the amount of dirt that is swept across the surface of the paint, creating scratches. The web site to buy them from is:
http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Use a good quality car wash that does not strip wax. (Car wash will strip wax if you use enough, even if it is of the highest quality. Make sure to dillute it properly with water.)
Use three buckets. Fill the first with plain water to rinse off the dirty mit. Fill the next one with soapy water to wash the dirty mit. Fill the third with soapy water to prime the mit for the next usage.
Wash your car in the shade.
When you wash, use motions from the front to the back (and vice versa). Do not use circular or side to side motions. Do not wipe the same surface over again. This only drags the dirt picked up by the mit over the surface again.
After you clean half a panel, turn the mit over and clean the other half. After each panel, go through the three buckets to completely clean and re-prime the mit. Rinse immediately after each panel so the soap does not dry on your car.
If any spots are left over after you wipe them (such as a dead bug), leave them there. After you dry the car, clean these spots separately with some quick detailer and a microfiber cloth. (This perhaps I don't agree with. To me, the washing environment is more safe because you are using lots of soap suds and water. There is less chance of scratching, especially if you use some water pressure.)
Wash the lowest surfaces on the car last (such as below the facia, under the bumper, and under the side skirts). These are usually filty and fill the mit with dirt that could scratch more visible places on your car. (A lot of people use a completely different mitt because of the dirt)
Use the "perfect drying technique" described on the Autopia website.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showt...=&threadid=5120
Some use a high-powered leaf blower to move most of the water off the car. This works well, but you need to be careful not to over use it and create water spots. A California water blade can also be used to help you safely remove most of the left over water. (debated, so use at your own risk, good for windows)
Use waffle-weave microfiber towels to dry the remaining water off the car. JT International (888-989-4584) sells great microfiber towels and they're really inexpensive. Blot, do not wipe, the remaining beads of water off the car. Blotting is more effective and helps insure that any dust that has settled on the car isn't wiped across the surface. An air compressor will help you blow out any remaining water in hard to reach areas (such as side mirrors, trim, license plates, door jams, behind chrome lettering, etc.)
I want to reiterate the imporance of using microfiber towels, wash mits, and applicators. I won't let anything else touch my car.
Also, waxing your car frequently will help prevent dirt sticking to your car and ease the removal of rinse water. (Some waxes actually attract dirt, more so than others, but it does make it easier to remove)
G35C 6MT / E55<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by wreck on 05/01/03 07:10 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Re: Black = swirls!
Oh man, thanks alot. Looks like I won't go to the hand car wash anymore.
Know anything about getting rid of those swirls?
-Joeya
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by malx on 05/01/03 09:12 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Know anything about getting rid of those swirls?
-Joeya
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by malx on 05/01/03 09:12 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Re: Black = swirls!
Removing swirlmarks. I'm assuming your swirlmarks are not extreme, so I would start by applying something like Zaino's X-5, it does a great job hiding them. Otherwise try to use Meguires Swirl Remover 2.0. If that doesn't work, follow the instructions below.
But if you really want to get rid of them, it's going to take you some time and money.
A lot of people have been asking me lately how to buff swirl marks out of the paint using a random orbital buffer(Porter cable 7336SP). I only recommend using this buffer or a similar RANDOM ORBITAL buffer, do not use a rotary, there is too much risk involved for a beginner. Also I do not guarantee perfect results, perfect results comes with practice from these basic instruction that i can provide you. This is how I do all the cars I do and I find it is the technique that works best for me. I suggest playing around a little bit and experiment (dont forget to post your results!) Here are the instructions for a car with a fair amount of swirl marks.
I recommend getting a porter cable 7336SP from your local lowes and buying the porter cable pad accessory kit from www.properautocare.com Also try and find a local body shop supply store that carries meguiars professional line of products. I highly recommend their Dual Action cleaner polish (#83). It is a fairly aggressive polish, excellent at removing swirls and is very easy to use, especially for a beginner.
1) I would use the wool pad that comes in the kit(if u have a lot of swirls) and make 4 dime sized drops of the product around the pad and rub it around a 2ft by 2ft section while the machine is off. (I actually suggest that you try the yellow pad first, you want to try and use the least aggresive route to removing swirls as possible, most automotive paint finishes are extremely thin so be careful!)
2)Go to the top left corner of the section, set the machine speed to 5 and start it pushing down with about 10 pounds of pressure. go side to side until you reach the bottom right corner and then start going up and down(over lap the passes of the buffer, just like mowing the lawn) still with 10 pounds of pressure until you reach the top left corner again.
3)Now lighten up pressure and keep repeating this until u see the product has almost completely buffed out (dissapeared). Now turn the machine off and wipe off the excess residue with a quality microfiber towel.
Tips: Remember to let off on pressure around edges and tops of the fender as the paint is usually thinner in these areas. Also avoid crossing body gaps with pressure, or you will get a lot of splatter. I also recommend taping off rubber/plastic trim unless u are really skilled at avoid the trim(the machine does vibrate all over the place). After u have used the dual action cleaner polish with a wool pad, I would follow up with meguiars #9 2.0 swirl remover to remove any swirls left behind or hazing created by incompletely buffing out the product. This haze is especially noticeable on a black car. Work this swirl remover in the same way as the DACP but use the white pad that comes in the kit, not the wool or yellow pad. This should leave u with a near perfect finish, dont expect all the swirls gone but a good amount of them will dissapear and the others will be diminshed. Then dawn wash the vehicle if you plan on going the Zaino route or Klasse to remove gloss enhancers and polishing oils left behind by the polish or just top it with your favorite carnuaba wax. If you have any further questions dont be afraid to ask!
G35C 6MT / E55
But if you really want to get rid of them, it's going to take you some time and money.
A lot of people have been asking me lately how to buff swirl marks out of the paint using a random orbital buffer(Porter cable 7336SP). I only recommend using this buffer or a similar RANDOM ORBITAL buffer, do not use a rotary, there is too much risk involved for a beginner. Also I do not guarantee perfect results, perfect results comes with practice from these basic instruction that i can provide you. This is how I do all the cars I do and I find it is the technique that works best for me. I suggest playing around a little bit and experiment (dont forget to post your results!) Here are the instructions for a car with a fair amount of swirl marks.
I recommend getting a porter cable 7336SP from your local lowes and buying the porter cable pad accessory kit from www.properautocare.com Also try and find a local body shop supply store that carries meguiars professional line of products. I highly recommend their Dual Action cleaner polish (#83). It is a fairly aggressive polish, excellent at removing swirls and is very easy to use, especially for a beginner.
1) I would use the wool pad that comes in the kit(if u have a lot of swirls) and make 4 dime sized drops of the product around the pad and rub it around a 2ft by 2ft section while the machine is off. (I actually suggest that you try the yellow pad first, you want to try and use the least aggresive route to removing swirls as possible, most automotive paint finishes are extremely thin so be careful!)
2)Go to the top left corner of the section, set the machine speed to 5 and start it pushing down with about 10 pounds of pressure. go side to side until you reach the bottom right corner and then start going up and down(over lap the passes of the buffer, just like mowing the lawn) still with 10 pounds of pressure until you reach the top left corner again.
3)Now lighten up pressure and keep repeating this until u see the product has almost completely buffed out (dissapeared). Now turn the machine off and wipe off the excess residue with a quality microfiber towel.
Tips: Remember to let off on pressure around edges and tops of the fender as the paint is usually thinner in these areas. Also avoid crossing body gaps with pressure, or you will get a lot of splatter. I also recommend taping off rubber/plastic trim unless u are really skilled at avoid the trim(the machine does vibrate all over the place). After u have used the dual action cleaner polish with a wool pad, I would follow up with meguiars #9 2.0 swirl remover to remove any swirls left behind or hazing created by incompletely buffing out the product. This haze is especially noticeable on a black car. Work this swirl remover in the same way as the DACP but use the white pad that comes in the kit, not the wool or yellow pad. This should leave u with a near perfect finish, dont expect all the swirls gone but a good amount of them will dissapear and the others will be diminshed. Then dawn wash the vehicle if you plan on going the Zaino route or Klasse to remove gloss enhancers and polishing oils left behind by the polish or just top it with your favorite carnuaba wax. If you have any further questions dont be afraid to ask!
G35C 6MT / E55
Re: Black = swirls!
I feel your pain, again I cannot tell you how much I regret going with a freaking BLACK car again. I have SOB Swirl marks on my car too. I tried 3M products, no luck. I tried other Swirl Removing Products (meguiers), but still NO LUCK. I think I am going to take it into the dealer and ask if their detailing will rid the marks..
sigh

-Blk/Blk G35c
sigh

-Blk/Blk G35c
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Machine Head
19 Inch
3
Mar 16, 2016 08:55 PM





