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Clear Coat/Bra on 2004

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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 12:23 PM
  #1  
Pthomas3166's Avatar
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Stock G35 Coupe Auto
Clear Coat/Bra on 2004

Was there a factory option for a clear coat / bra protection on a 2004 G35 Coupe? I just got this car and wondering how much of a pita it's gonna be to get this thing off. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 12:45 PM
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MikeG35Coupe's Avatar
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One owner 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT
No, that was not factory or port installed.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 12:53 PM
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Stock G35 Coupe Auto
Any idea on how to get this stuff off? Goo B-Gone? Paint is already not the best don't wanna make it worse.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 02:26 PM
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You should just leave it, talk to a local bodyshop about what they recommend to polish it up a bit so the cracks aren't so visible.

It's going to require complete stripping, it's probably not going to come off in one big piece because of how cracked the actual plastic is so it will need a LOT of chemical stripper and a high ambient temperature (probably a job you want to do in the summertime direct sunlight).

You can hit it with some polishing compound and a DA polisher to see if it can be cleaned up some. Normally you would use a heat gun and work across the clear bra just lifting gently until you heat it up enough that the adhesive releases and you pull just the top layer of plastic off in one big sheet. Then you use an adhesive remover and slowly, painfully, work the adhesive off. It will take an entire day for a front+ bra, then the second day you can usually get it fully polished/waxed. It's an incredibly time consuming job which is why it costs so much to have them removed (about as much as it costs to have them installed...).
 
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Old Nov 25, 2019 | 01:46 PM
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04 6mt Coupe - motordyne 5/16 ART pipes TDX2; KWv2; Hotchkiss; custom seats.
I know this post is old and moldy, but I got my PPF off using a heat gun to warm up the adhesive, plastic razors in a razor blade scraper, goo gone to remove the adhesive, and a metric ton of patience. Order a 100 plastic razor set (they lose their edge super easy).

Mine were oem/dealer installed on hood, rear fender wells, rear bumper/sill, and door sills and were way worse than these (or way more visibly bad because of the lighter paint). You have to go slow or you can scratch right through the paint (especially on the fender curves)...change your blade early and often...you'll likely end up with some microscratches to match the existing swirl marks, but do a full wash/clay/paint correction/protection after and you'll end up miles ahead of where you started. It took me about a week of evenings working slowly to get mine done.

I only had one spot on the bottom of the rear fender arch where I got impatient and pushed the blade into the paint. After paint correction, I still can see the scratch, but its nowhere near as noticeable as the old PPF was.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2019 | 05:27 PM
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Coupe, Premium package, sport suspension
How long were the films on the car? What's your climate, especially UV exposure/intensity? I've heard 5 years is about the limit.
 
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