Washing a Black G
Re: Washing a Black G
First, do not take it to anyone to wash.
Second you're going to need to look in the Details section.
I have a black coupe also. It's the hardest car to keep clean, but once it is.... Damnnnnnn... for the 5 minutes it stays clean. You need to get wax on this car. Call the people out at Zaino. I think the website is LAZaino.com .. If not look it up on the Detail forum. You have to wax this car a certain way in order not to get the swirls. It's a pain.. But well worth it. Remember not to take it the car wash.... Good luck... You'll love this color, just a pain to keep clean..
Second you're going to need to look in the Details section.
I have a black coupe also. It's the hardest car to keep clean, but once it is.... Damnnnnnn... for the 5 minutes it stays clean. You need to get wax on this car. Call the people out at Zaino. I think the website is LAZaino.com .. If not look it up on the Detail forum. You have to wax this car a certain way in order not to get the swirls. It's a pain.. But well worth it. Remember not to take it the car wash.... Good luck... You'll love this color, just a pain to keep clean..
Re: Washing a Black G
Check this thread. I've posted some things you might want to pick up. Since you have a black car, make sure you get Microfiber everything (mitts, Big blue towels, etc).
https://g35driver.com/forums/showfla...view=&sb=&vc=1
G35C 6MT / AMG E55
https://g35driver.com/forums/showfla...view=&sb=&vc=1
G35C 6MT / AMG E55
Re: Washing a Black G
I try to wash only once a week with water and car soap because water spots look bad.Almost every morning I spend 15 min dusting with the California Duster and a quick detail to get the oil streaks off along with the bird sheet and water spots from puddles.I use one towel for the bottom edges,and two towels for the quick detail on & off.Definately use micro fiber towels.Wax once a month,it seems tedius and time consuming,but once you get your groove down its only a few min a day to have a black beauty.Never drive it dirty,it makes you look lazy
Re: Washing a Black G
ppl saying do not do drive thru car wash.. is that toward to brush drive thru car wash or is it included brushless car wash too? i don't know why can't use brushless car wash?? is it because g get scratch or not clean enough?
Re: Washing a Black G
touchless is fine... but that is if you either dont have the stock 18s on the coupe or sedan for that matter, as the tracks that guide the car through, has rails which can potentially scratch your rims up.
but, its up to you.
later
but, its up to you.
later
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Re: Washing a Black G
If you have the time, get the package that Zaino sells. It includes wash that is outstanding, clay bar and z2, z5, and z6. Use those properly and you should be fine with one wash a week. Be sure to use the clay bar before waxing the first time, cotten towels...basically what they recommend in their instructions.
A cover would be a good idea. I got a Noah cover by Covercraft and it works great....even survived a rain storm so far.
A cover would be a good idea. I got a Noah cover by Covercraft and it works great....even survived a rain storm so far.
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Re: Washing a Black G
I got 18's and I was pretty nervous about the wheels, but my car HAD to be washed and I didn't have the ritualistic 3 hrs to spend. Talked to the manager at the car wash said he hadn't seen it happen yet so I handed over the keys, and they did a pretty good job too! Never took my eyes of the car though.
Expect the unexpected when you least expect it.
Blk on Blk with everything but the kitchen sink and Nav.
Expect the unexpected when you least expect it.
Blk on Blk with everything but the kitchen sink and Nav.
Re: Washing a Black G
I have a black G. It has no swirls and it's shiny as chrome. This is how I wash my car and I will give you these tips to help you along your travels.
On the first note never go to the the carwash or have the dealer wash you car. Most of the swirl mark that appears on dark color cars are caused by improper technique when washing the car.
I recommend you start off by getting some mircofiber towels. Cheapest one I've seen is http://www.microfibertech.com
I use 3M's General purpose adhesive cleaner. It will help you safely remove the tar. Scrubbing tar spots is NOT recommended. You'll end up removing some tar and putting it on your wash mit. Then this tar will be rubbed back and forth over your paint causing an even bigger problem.
ALWAYS wash your car yourself. Here are some directions.
Wash the wheels, tires, and wheel wells first. You'll probably need two 100% cotton chenille wash mits (get them at k-mart)to accomplish this. Do the wheels first so that when you rise them off, you're not splatering dirty water all over clean body panels. Do NOT use these wash mits on the rest of the car! I do not recommend any "spray on" wheel cleaners. (If you can wash your vehicle enough, you can render spray on cleaners useless because the less harsh car wash solution will do the trick.)
Buy some Pinnacle microfiber wash mits from AutoGeek. You can do the car with one, but I recommend using three (one for the top surfaces, one for the front and one side, and one for the rear and the other side). I actually own several because I often wash both cars and I don't re-use the mits until I wash them in the washing machine. These mits will minimize the amount of dirt that is swept across the surface of the paint, creating scratches. The web site to buy them from is:
http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Use a good quality car wash that does not strip wax. (Car wash will strip wax if you use enough, even if it is of the highest quality. Make sure to dillute it properly with water.)
Use three buckets. Fill the first with plain water to rinse off the dirty mit. Fill the next one with soapy water to wash the dirty mit. Fill the third with soapy water to prime the mit for the next usage.
Wash your car in the shade.
When you wash, use motions from the front to the back (and vice versa). Do not use circular or side to side motions. Do not wipe the same surface over again. This only drags the dirt picked up by the mit over the surface again.
After you clean half a panel, turn the mit over and clean the other half. After each panel, go through the three buckets to completely clean and re-prime the mit. Rinse immediately after each panel so the soap does not dry on your car.
If any spots are left over after you wipe them (such as a dead bug), try lightly rubbing the mit over it. Usually what I do is I inspect my front bumper and remember where the bugs are this way when im soaping my car I put a little extra pressure behind it. If they won't come off, leave them there. After you dry the car, clean these spots separately with compound. I recommed Presta Chroma 1500 because if you screw up it won't hurt your paint. This will remove bugs and most grime from the surface surface of your paint, even swirls! Use a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt. Put it on the rag, and rub it into the area with light pressure until it rubs and and than buffs off. Dont leave it on and buff it off like wax. After that I follow up with some Preast Fast Wax (keep reading on fast wax application).
Wash the lowest surfaces on the car last (such as below the facia, under the bumper, and under the side skirts). These are usually filty and fill the mit with dirt that could scratch more visible places on your car. (A lot of people use a completely different mitt because of the dirt)
Some use a high-powered leaf blower to move most of the water off the car. This works well, but you need to be careful not to over use it and create water spots. A California water blade can also be used to remove water from the windows.
Use waffle-weave microfiber towels to dry the remaining water off the car. JT International (888-989-4584) sells great microfiber towels and they're really inexpensive. Blot, do not wipe, the remaining beads of water off the car. Blotting is more effective and helps insure that any dust that has settled on the car isn't wiped across the surface. An air compressor will help you blow out any remaining water in hard to reach areas (such as side mirrors, trim, license plates, door jams, behind chrome lettering, etc.)
I want to reiterate the imporance of using microfiber towels, wash mits, and applicators. I won't let anything else touch my car.
Also, waxing your car frequently will help prevent dirt sticking to your car and ease the removal of rinse water. (Some waxes actually attract dirt, more so than others, but it does make it easier to remove) I use Presta Fast Wax. It is like liquid wax, goes on really easy and comes off really easy. Use a sponge to put it on, as soon as you finsh the panel buff it off. When you buff it off a circular motion is not needed. The wax comes off really easy. Make sure you shake the wax bottle frequently between panels. The wax once applied on the car dries really fast and it can even be used in DIRECT sunlight (as stated on the bottle). I don't recommed using it in direct sunlight unless you need to. This wax is really safe for the car.
I found this wax to be the best on the black G. It takes off everything, leaves the best shine I have seen, and BARELY any dust sticks to it after 2 full days of driving. After that the little bit of dust on the car starts to attract dust. Also the fast wax, it takes about maybe 30 minutes to wax your entire car top to bottom after you know how to use it.
Thanks - Joey Avino
On the first note never go to the the carwash or have the dealer wash you car. Most of the swirl mark that appears on dark color cars are caused by improper technique when washing the car.
I recommend you start off by getting some mircofiber towels. Cheapest one I've seen is http://www.microfibertech.com
I use 3M's General purpose adhesive cleaner. It will help you safely remove the tar. Scrubbing tar spots is NOT recommended. You'll end up removing some tar and putting it on your wash mit. Then this tar will be rubbed back and forth over your paint causing an even bigger problem.
ALWAYS wash your car yourself. Here are some directions.
Wash the wheels, tires, and wheel wells first. You'll probably need two 100% cotton chenille wash mits (get them at k-mart)to accomplish this. Do the wheels first so that when you rise them off, you're not splatering dirty water all over clean body panels. Do NOT use these wash mits on the rest of the car! I do not recommend any "spray on" wheel cleaners. (If you can wash your vehicle enough, you can render spray on cleaners useless because the less harsh car wash solution will do the trick.)
Buy some Pinnacle microfiber wash mits from AutoGeek. You can do the car with one, but I recommend using three (one for the top surfaces, one for the front and one side, and one for the rear and the other side). I actually own several because I often wash both cars and I don't re-use the mits until I wash them in the washing machine. These mits will minimize the amount of dirt that is swept across the surface of the paint, creating scratches. The web site to buy them from is:
http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Use a good quality car wash that does not strip wax. (Car wash will strip wax if you use enough, even if it is of the highest quality. Make sure to dillute it properly with water.)
Use three buckets. Fill the first with plain water to rinse off the dirty mit. Fill the next one with soapy water to wash the dirty mit. Fill the third with soapy water to prime the mit for the next usage.
Wash your car in the shade.
When you wash, use motions from the front to the back (and vice versa). Do not use circular or side to side motions. Do not wipe the same surface over again. This only drags the dirt picked up by the mit over the surface again.
After you clean half a panel, turn the mit over and clean the other half. After each panel, go through the three buckets to completely clean and re-prime the mit. Rinse immediately after each panel so the soap does not dry on your car.
If any spots are left over after you wipe them (such as a dead bug), try lightly rubbing the mit over it. Usually what I do is I inspect my front bumper and remember where the bugs are this way when im soaping my car I put a little extra pressure behind it. If they won't come off, leave them there. After you dry the car, clean these spots separately with compound. I recommed Presta Chroma 1500 because if you screw up it won't hurt your paint. This will remove bugs and most grime from the surface surface of your paint, even swirls! Use a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt. Put it on the rag, and rub it into the area with light pressure until it rubs and and than buffs off. Dont leave it on and buff it off like wax. After that I follow up with some Preast Fast Wax (keep reading on fast wax application).
Wash the lowest surfaces on the car last (such as below the facia, under the bumper, and under the side skirts). These are usually filty and fill the mit with dirt that could scratch more visible places on your car. (A lot of people use a completely different mitt because of the dirt)
Some use a high-powered leaf blower to move most of the water off the car. This works well, but you need to be careful not to over use it and create water spots. A California water blade can also be used to remove water from the windows.
Use waffle-weave microfiber towels to dry the remaining water off the car. JT International (888-989-4584) sells great microfiber towels and they're really inexpensive. Blot, do not wipe, the remaining beads of water off the car. Blotting is more effective and helps insure that any dust that has settled on the car isn't wiped across the surface. An air compressor will help you blow out any remaining water in hard to reach areas (such as side mirrors, trim, license plates, door jams, behind chrome lettering, etc.)
I want to reiterate the imporance of using microfiber towels, wash mits, and applicators. I won't let anything else touch my car.
Also, waxing your car frequently will help prevent dirt sticking to your car and ease the removal of rinse water. (Some waxes actually attract dirt, more so than others, but it does make it easier to remove) I use Presta Fast Wax. It is like liquid wax, goes on really easy and comes off really easy. Use a sponge to put it on, as soon as you finsh the panel buff it off. When you buff it off a circular motion is not needed. The wax comes off really easy. Make sure you shake the wax bottle frequently between panels. The wax once applied on the car dries really fast and it can even be used in DIRECT sunlight (as stated on the bottle). I don't recommed using it in direct sunlight unless you need to. This wax is really safe for the car.
I found this wax to be the best on the black G. It takes off everything, leaves the best shine I have seen, and BARELY any dust sticks to it after 2 full days of driving. After that the little bit of dust on the car starts to attract dust. Also the fast wax, it takes about maybe 30 minutes to wax your entire car top to bottom after you know how to use it.
Thanks - Joey Avino
Re: Washing a Black G
question... i bought my coupe 3 weeks ago and i noticed a couple of swirl marks, what can i do to get them out? i wash my car myself and dry it with towles.
jenyjen
jenyjen
Re: Washing a Black G
I have a black G too and I give it such a wash n' wax that you can't tell the difference between it and coal.
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gsedanman on 08/20/03 06:42 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gsedanman on 08/20/03 06:42 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 30,341
Likes: 9
From: Cambridge, Ont. Canada
Re: Washing a Black G
ZBEST350, Sorry for the edit, bro, but we can't accept the 'n' word on our forum. No racial slurs.
Later
GSM
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red> <font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>
Later
GSM
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red> <font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>




