The only person that I have seen that has a reliable setup is Beerviper. He is running 5psi (I think) on a vortech s/c

He has never had any issues at all with his car. If you are going to go the conservative route I would talk to him.

I still would not feel safe without a built motor. I have been around boosted cars for far too long to risk not building it. I know that there are a lot of people who will disagree with me but I always feel that doing it right the first time and making it all bullet proof is the way to go.

 

will do thanks for the feedback I always want to check all angles on a subject I hadn't really heard that recommended on anything besides some one looking to run in excess of 9 psi I was just curious.

 

buy a used sc kit if you're soo itching on doing this.
i got my kit for 3500 with everything, plus labor, tune, and maintenance (remember, it's not more than just the initial install, you gotta keep on top of maintenance on it, never forget the random things that go wrong)

about 6k total for me, and tons of headaches, but so much fVcking fun on the hwy.

dont be cheap.

 

oh and my set up is very similar to beerviper, but he drives about... what 5k a year? hahaha and i drive about 16k a year.

make sure this is NOT your DD.

 

Since the battery in our cars have it's own walled off compartment in the corner, I don't see how a battery relocation kit is going to free up any space in the engine bay... Have the guys at RX Racing even looked under the hood of a G35?

 

More like 3k a year with several of those miles on the track

 

Thats awesome - I want a wkend warrior too...and a truck to haul it..

Thats the way to do it BeerViper!..

 

Besides...that kit is missing stuff. Its no bueno....if you were to spend the money on a turbo kit make sure its from a reputable source. Like the man said, you get what you pay for.

 

Speaking as someone who has been in your shoes ie wanting more power and also not being made of money I know the tempation is high but just do a search for blown motors that will show you a litttle of what happens when it all goes wrong. I recomend a good used kit as well I got mine from a 350Z guy that was local and it still costs me more then I ever thought to make it all work. Good luck and keep researching and saving that money your going to need it. I am runing 10psi on a fully built motor I love the way it pulls but I don't know if I would do it again. The best advise I can give you is be PATENT never rush into anything and don't believe everything you read on the internet call around to the shops that will be doing the work. I recomend UPrev is Austin they know there stuff. Good luck. Kirk

 

Thank you sooo much man I appreciate the info! Ill call them and just get some ballpark figures on what they recommend for my goal.

Question though since you had to pull the motor and all that fun stuff did you have little issues here and there with stuff not working or weird sounds random leaks? thats one of my concerns for a car that i consider to be very nice ( except for my noisy *** fly wheel )

 

Ahem ahem, (resenting being left off the list of people with a conservative reliable setup)

Also, if you build your motor, don't sleeve it.

 

Why is that? And are you built too or just boosted..

 

I am on the stock motor, like BeerViper. Read up on the FI section on my350z, ton of information over there. Seems like the first batch of FI'ers went sleeved and had some issues (heat related if I recall correctly, it's been a couple years lol).. the later batch don't go sleeved and hit high numbers like 650whp etc. Check the built block packages available from the popular VQ shops and you'll notice they aren't sleeved.

Note that I agree with what others posted, if you go FI, you have to be ready to deal with a blown motor. And if you build your block, you have to be ready to deal with lots of other issues that will pop up till you get it right.. and then you'll have a higher level of maintenance required.

 

haha Mad A, it wasnt really a LIST per say, it was ONE person mentioned hahahaha

3k miles a year!?!? Damn Beerviper, your resale is gonna be awesome.

 

Is this inherent to the motor in our car? I looked at our blocks like the blocks of olde, 2JZ, 5SFE, RB26, Honda K series etc where 3-6 psi was well within the motors potential with minimal mods, im starting to think I was being a bit naive.

By that I mean most of the cars ive driven or owned light boost wasn't a concern, it sounds like this one would need to be handled more with kid gloves.

I know i sound extra cheap, "you drive a higher end car" " be prepared to pay more" which im totally aware of, I just had no idea that so much prep was involved, I figured the kit would be high maybe even the install but engine prep on light boost was something I honestly didnt expect.