wow that is interesting, does this work on every automatic car?

 

http://www.modernracer.com/tips/drag...echniques.html

hey everyone,
here is the link to the original article about a launching technique you can try.

I've found that it helps somewhat, but their is still a few moments where the car bogs on launch.
I think that Infiniti must have done something in the software to limit how hard you can lauch the automatics.
Most of my experience is in manuals, but just going by the horsepower and torque numbers of our G35 automatics, they should definately launch harder then they do.

 

Guys,

I am not advocating a neutral drop in any way shape or form. The throttle blip in neutral removes brake booster vacuum. You blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so then let off the gas and let the rpms drop back to idle. THEN you put the car into gear. Then you brake torque.

 

Gotchya. That's much better. I learned my lesson on my old Accord. lol

 

The service manual specifies a range for the stock stall for the TC (2600-2900 rpms). Maybe this technique allows you to move to the upper part of that range...

 

Hey, if a reflash is done, is it possible to raise the stall to like 3K or so? I mean, they can do a ton of stuff w/ the reflash like raise the rev limiter, remove gov'r, etc... how about raise the stall? 3000-3200 RPM stall would be nice.

 

There are only two ways to increase stall rpm over stock:

1) Cut the torque converter open and adjust the fins.

2) Add more power. Adding more power, especially lower rpm power, will push the TC harder and will increase the stall. Stock stall rpm is based on the stock power. Adding mods that increase mid to high rpm power won't push the stall higher. A Stillen SC will increase the stock stall.

 

when you try doin this technique, does the VDC have to be on or off????

btw, Thanks for the Info!!!!

 

It'd be pointless to have VDC on during that time, as your tires would loose a little traction and VDC would then come on and stop you from spinning the tires.

 

Yo Dave, Ive been pondering this a bit. How do you think line locks with launch control would work. Wire them up on the same button so they let go together. Maybe a switch between the two so you can burn out with just the linelocks. Would bouncing of a low revlimit at launch increase the stall? decrease the heat build up in the trans? Pull up to the line, mash the brakes, push the launch button, release the brakes, mash the gas, green light release the button, breaks unlock and low RPM releases. Would this method avoid the gas/brake power loss that the ECU does? Anyone have a transbrake made for us yet ?

 

I think a transbrake would be sweet. I know there are some 350Z guys that have done it, but I haven't researched it much. I think most of the Z guys that did it are boosted and have higher stall TCs and there cars would simply overcome the brakes without the transbrake.

My biggest concern would be 5AT longevity. I know the tranny is stout, but a transbrake can build some heat.

 

Does any company make aftermarket stall converters for these trannys?

 

Yes, IIRC SGP and Level 10

 

IM thinking that the pump pressure in the trans may be on the high side, and could be causing the bog in low. Was a major problem in the TH 400 with the pump pressures they ran? IM betting this is causing the problem. Maybe a pressure relief valve in the valve body
Could keep the pressure build up in the trans. And add to the stall speed!

 

Can you explain how the pump pressure in the tranny could cause the engine to bog? I'm not all that auto tranny savy sorry.