Will the experts please educate me on drag radials?

Specifically, what benefit will I see from them? Obvisouly, traction, but can someone quantify the benefits? For example, if I'm launching at 3k now and seeing 60' times in the 2.1's to the 2.3's, how much of a difference will the DR's make? A tenth? More?

It's my understand to see the full benefit of DR's one must launch at a higher RPM. Some people over on my350z are launching in the 6k range. I refuse to do that. I *might* launch as high as 4k, but not any higher. So with that limitation, will I actually see a return on the money for wheels+dr's?

 

Drag Radials are one option. I prefer the offerings from Hoosier.

DR's will net you substantialy lower 60' times if heated/driven properly. They are a little trickier to launch than a wrinkle-wall, but MUCH better than OEM.

Are you going to swap rims/tires at the track? If so, a DOT offering from Hoosier, Goodyear, or even MT will work VERY well. The softer sidewall flexes and plants a larger 'footprint' than a traditional radial. You can also air them down lower than a DR. They *can* be driven on the street (DOT grooves), but I wouldn't recommend it for any distance.

DR's are a lot more 'streetable' if you are street racing, or don't plan on swapping rubber at the strip.

With this type of traction, you can expect 1.7-1.9 60' times and a commensurate reduction in 1/4 mile times.

Your consistency should also improve as well. With consistency comes confidence, and with confidence comes better ET's!!!

Your mileage may vary....

W

 

yo dont need anything crazy no full slicks unless your making alot of power...I would just get some spare 17s or 18s and slap on the widest BFG drag radials you can fit and youll see some sick 60' times

 

I'm in agreement with what Chicago said. DRs will definitely help, but street-based slicks (MT Streets, Hooiser, etc) will make an even larger impact. DRs do require a decent burnout to "skin" the sticky rubber. You should be able to get low 1.9 60 foots on DRs which should shed about .3 seconds in ET assuming you consistently get lower 2.1s. You can safely run them at 16psi if needed, but you'll need to experiment with pressure depending on conditions. One major advantage of DRs is that you can safely drive on them outside of the track assuming you pump them up to 32-34psi. A set of DRs should last about 8-12K miles depending on your driving style and with no real penalty in handling. BFG makes the stickiest DRs, but they also wear out the quickest. I've watched a Viper GTS with a 150-shot of nitrous yank consistent low 1.5 60 foots on stock rims with BFG DRs. Now that's dang impressive for a DR.

To launch on them, you really do need a good launch rpm. I'd say at least 4500rpms and probably closer to 5000rpms at the least. Don't dump the clutch though. Only bad things happen from that. Once it's time to go, slip the clutch enough to feel the car roll, then quickly start releasing the clutch and feeding the car gas to keep the rpms above 4000rpms. Slipping the clutch reduces dangerous driveline shock which is usually what snaps halfshafts, blows up differentials, and sheers U-joints. Keep in mind your clutch will be put under a lot of stress on launch.

If it were me, I'd source out a set of 90-96 300ZX 16X8 rims for the DRs. I believe a lot of 350Z guys run these rims because they clear the calipers. The rims are cheap and light (16lbs). A set of 245/50R16 DRs would work nicely because they'd give you a little deeper gearing (shorter diameter tire) and they have enough sidewall to absorb some shock. Another advantage to this setup is it would probably weigh about 40lbs vs the 51lb 18" combo you have on the rear now. That means you'd be removing 22lbs of rotational weight which is pretty significant.