Need some help with a 05 Sedan A/T fluid drain/refill. I have a couple of questions after using the forum search. I will be draining the fluid from the pan only.

I will be using ramps with 7 inches of lift height...will that give me enough clearence to reach the drain plug for the transmission?

Does an underpanel/cover have to be removed for access to the drain plug?

I have read that about 3.5-4 quarts will drain from the pan. Is this correct?

 

I'd also appreciate it if someone would just post a write-up with details about doing a A/T tranny fluid change. I know it's just simple routine maintenance, but sometimes overlooking even the smallest thing can cause serious problems.

 

This is one of those things that if you dont know what your doing you should go to a shop for.

 

Thanks for your very prompt and informative reply. I can't believe you're not a moderator by now.

For the second time, maintenance procedure vary from car to car, even if only slightly. Therefore I wanted an official write-up for the G35 by someone who knows about it. Please excuse my stupidity; I'm on the way to the dealership right now to pay 5x too much money so someone else can change my tranny fluid.

Anyway, from the service manual:

1. Warm up ATF.
2. Stop engine.
3. Loosen the level gauge bolt.
4. Drain ATF from drain hole and refill with new ATF. Always refill
same volume with drained ATF.
* To replace the ATF, pour in new ATF at the A/T fluid charging
pipe with the engine idling and at the same time drain the old
ATF from the radiator cooler hose return side.
* When the color of the ATF coming out is about the same as
the color of the new ATF, the replacement is complete. The
amount of new ATF to use should be 30 to 50% increase of
the stipulated amount.
Use only Genuine NISSAN Matic J ATF. Do not mix with other ATF.
* Use ATF other than Genuine NISSAN Matic J ATF will cause deterioration in driveability and A/
T durability, and may damage the A/T, which is not covered by the warranty. * When filling ATF, take care not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.
* Do not reuse drain plug gasket.
5. Run engine at idle speed for 5 minutes.
6. Check A/T fluid level and condition. Refer to AT-12, "Checking A/T Fluid" . If ATF is still dirty, repeat step 2.
through 5.
7. Install the removed A/T fluid level gauge in the A/T fluid charging pipe.
8. Tighten the level gauge bolt.

 

Just putting in the torque specs in for you

 

Anybody ever tried this for the job? It would seem to simplify things and make it easy to tell how much goes back in...

 

For those who've drained their ATF, what is this volume approximately?

Say the drain pan is ~4 quarts, how much more are we talking about in terms of draining from the cooler return line?

I just watched Eugene's DIY video and it looks like ~3.5 quarts drained out from the pan, refilled with 4 quarts. Then he drained another 2.5 quarts from the cooler, which was re-topped off, to make 6.5 quarts total. I'm not quite understanding where the 2.5 quarts drained while the engine is running comes from, as rather than going by visible inspection/sight for a color change, Eugene just went for a fixed volume.

Any tips appreciated!

 

I did the valve body the other day ..


just to drain / fill you dont need to warm it up .. just jack the front up a little ..

unscrew the plug .. 19mm socket

4 quarts will drain out (maybe less, I got exactly 4)

re install plug 25 ft lb

fill with same amount drained

the end


edit -- dipstick is held down by a 10mm bolt .. between notches is cold side .. shaded area on stick is hot side ..

 

Thanks for confirming the 4 qts, how about the torque converter/cooler? That's what I'd ideally like to confirm...

 

idk about the rest .. just the drain plug on level ground lets out 4 quarts


drop the pan .. another quart

take the valve body off .. two quarts


the rest I'm not sure .. the service manual says something like 10 quarts to "flush the system"

you might want to download the service manual .. has alot of information in it .. I think its on the 350z tech site

 

Wow. Perfect. Just the information I was looking for. Ive been meaning to do this myself but wasnt quite sure on how many quarts needed.

Damn. 10 quarts over all. Geebus. How much does 1 quart cost?

 

last time I bought j-matic from nissan it was about 11 bucks a quart.

one tip. you should drain into a bucket and let it cool down to room temperature before you take a measurement on how much to put back in. ATF expands when it warms up, so if you put in the same amount of cold fluid as hot fluid you will have overfilled.

 

I measured the fluid when it was cold

jacked the car up the night before and started the next morning .. so my measurements are accurate

I got my s-matic for $8.12 (dont make j matic anymore .. s matic takes its place) .. but that price was the dodge dealerships "cost" where I work (nissan dealers discounted it from $18 .. haha)

best place to buy it is online in advance for around $7 to $8 .. but I needed it that day .. unless you are lucky and have a nissan dealer near by that doesn't rape their customers with a huge markup on parts

 

This was posted in another forum

The Tools & Supplies:

1. 14 quarts of Nissan Matic J Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) -- in the black bottle
The factory service manual states The amount of new transmission fluid to use should be 30 to
50% increase of the stipulated amount.
2. An ATF Fluid Level Gauge (Dipstick) 2003 Type 1 G35 Sedans do not come with one. This dipstick (Part # 31086-CD100) is available for around $10.00 - $15.00 from the better Infiniti dealers
3. A/T pan drain plug gasket – Can be reused in most cases
4. Tools - Ratchet set, wrenches, pliers, screw drivers and miscellaneous other hand tools
5. Drain pan, 3+ feet of 3/8” tubing, small funnel, rags and/or paper towels


The Factory Warnings:

1. Always use Nissan Matic J ATF). Don’t mix Nissan Matic J with other ATF.
2. Using automatic transmission fluid other than Genuine Nissan Matic J will cause deterioration in driveability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is not covered by the warranty.


The Specs:

1. A/T Fuid: Genuine Nissan Matic J ATF
2. A/T Fluid capacity: 10-7/8 US quarts (10.3 L, 9-1/8 lmp quarts)
3. A/T pan drain plug torque: 25 ft-lb (34 N•m, 3.5 kg-m,)
4. Cap/Level Gauge bolt torque: 45 in-lb (5.1 N•m, 0.52 kg-m,)


The Procedure:

I. Drain the ATF from the A/T Pan

1. Warm up A/T fluid (ATF) to normal operating temperature.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Remove the 10mm hold down bolt from the fluid charging pipe.
4. Remove the cap/dipstick assembly from the fluid charging pipe.
5. Remove the A/T pan’s drain plug and drain out the A/T fluid.
6. Replace the A/T pan’s drain plug (new gasket) and torque to specs.
7. Using a small funnel, refill the transmission with new A/T fluid. Refill with the same volume of fluid as drained--approximately 3.5 quarts.

II. Replace the Remaining A/T Fluid

1. Disconnect the ATF hose from the radiator cooler’s return side (driver’s side) and plug the hose.
2. Temporary connect a piece of 3/8” tubing to the radiator fitting and route it to a drain pan that allows you to visually monitor the ATF’s flow rate and color while adding ATF. Secure the tubing so it can’t whip out of the drain pan, otherwise things will get real messy.
3. Have the additional quarts of Nissan Matic J ATF ready for use. Be ready to move quickly!
4. Start the engine and with it idling pour in new fluid, while monitoring the flow rate and color of the fluid being pumped into the drain pan. When the color is about the same as the color of new fluid, the replacement is complete.
5. Shutoff the engine.
6. Replace the ATF return hose.
7. With the car on level ground, restart the engine and cycle the transmission from Drive to Reverse a few times.
8. Run engine at idle speed for 5 minutes.
9. Check the ATF level and add additional fluid if necessary.
10. Replace the cap/dipstick assembly and 10mm hold down bolt. Torque to specs.

Note: Getting a good level measurement is a little more difficult because the ATF expands as the temperature increases. With the engine idling in Park the level should be between the notches when cold. When hot -- at normal operating temperature -- it should be in the cross hatch area.

 

The total is actually 6qts, not 6.5qts

Yes, I did just go for a fixed volume, it's true. It is difficult to tell the color; and generally speaking, if your color is off by so much that you can "tell" you should be doing a complete flush 12+qts, not a service. Standard dealer service only replaces what's in the pan, up to 4qts.