B&M shifter problems - getting returned
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Posts: n/a
B&M shifter problems - getting returned
I special ordered a B&M shifter from Summit Racing. They had it drop shipped directly from B&M to my door. Initial inspection looked good. I followed their instructions for the install. Installation was very easy, except I was not expecting to have to dremel the shifter housing as the instructions specified. The hardest part of the whole install is getting the lower shifter cover back over the linkage.
My problems started immediately. I had continual problems getting into reverse. If I pushed the shift lever all the way down and went over to the reverse lockout plate, I would hit the upper shaft of the shifter on the plate. The only way I could get into reverse was to slide the shift lever over to the plate without pushing down and then push down slightly and it would go over. The positioning of the upper shaft to the lower shaft was not correct.
If you think the stock shifter is notchy, the B&M is a lot notchier. It is definitely shorter, but the notchiness kept me from clicking off quick shifts. I was continually getting rattles from the shifter while driving. After a day, I took the covers off and checked it The allen head screw and nut that holds the upper shaft to the lower shaft worked loose. The reason was that although I checked to make sure it was tight earlier, there is a bushing that goes in the middle that was never pressed in properly at the factory. After pressing it back in (with large vice grips), I reassembled everything and noticed a ring pattern hole in my shifter boot.
WARNING: this is for everyone looking at a B&M shifter, there is a major design flaw in the shifter. The stock shifter retains the **** but bottoming the inner side of the shifter down onto the bushing and the shifter shaft to lock it on. The B&M has no stop. Hopefully your shifter will just happen to stop before crushing the boot to lock. Mine would turn loosely until compressing against the boot. On the ender side of the shifter, there is some casting flash. As you tighten the shifter, it cuts the boot. If you are daring enough to get one of these shifter, use some sand paper or a dremel to clean off any burs from the ****.
In the instructions they say to remove the stock bushing. The shifter will rattle badly whether you do so or not. I've tried it both ways. I get a lot of rattling in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears as I accelerate. The reason for the rattling is another design problem. The B&M ball housing is aluminum as is their spacer plate. There is no insulation between the 2 and hence the metal to metal rattle from the vibration. An easly fix would be to put a little rubber on the underside of the plate to insulate it. After having 3 phone conversations with B&M, B&M is advising me to return my shifter for a refund and these problems were due to my car being an "anomaly." Take your own risk on whether your car is an "anomaly" too. I put the stock shifter back in with the bushing and the **** tightened up without compressing the boot just like it was before, hence how I easily question the "anomaly" idea.
Bottom line, the B&M shifter is a horribly designed POS. Summit Racing is taking great care of me. The are not only going to refund the cost of the shifter, but also the handling charge(there was no shipping) and the return shipping charge.
My problems started immediately. I had continual problems getting into reverse. If I pushed the shift lever all the way down and went over to the reverse lockout plate, I would hit the upper shaft of the shifter on the plate. The only way I could get into reverse was to slide the shift lever over to the plate without pushing down and then push down slightly and it would go over. The positioning of the upper shaft to the lower shaft was not correct.
If you think the stock shifter is notchy, the B&M is a lot notchier. It is definitely shorter, but the notchiness kept me from clicking off quick shifts. I was continually getting rattles from the shifter while driving. After a day, I took the covers off and checked it The allen head screw and nut that holds the upper shaft to the lower shaft worked loose. The reason was that although I checked to make sure it was tight earlier, there is a bushing that goes in the middle that was never pressed in properly at the factory. After pressing it back in (with large vice grips), I reassembled everything and noticed a ring pattern hole in my shifter boot.
WARNING: this is for everyone looking at a B&M shifter, there is a major design flaw in the shifter. The stock shifter retains the **** but bottoming the inner side of the shifter down onto the bushing and the shifter shaft to lock it on. The B&M has no stop. Hopefully your shifter will just happen to stop before crushing the boot to lock. Mine would turn loosely until compressing against the boot. On the ender side of the shifter, there is some casting flash. As you tighten the shifter, it cuts the boot. If you are daring enough to get one of these shifter, use some sand paper or a dremel to clean off any burs from the ****.
In the instructions they say to remove the stock bushing. The shifter will rattle badly whether you do so or not. I've tried it both ways. I get a lot of rattling in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears as I accelerate. The reason for the rattling is another design problem. The B&M ball housing is aluminum as is their spacer plate. There is no insulation between the 2 and hence the metal to metal rattle from the vibration. An easly fix would be to put a little rubber on the underside of the plate to insulate it. After having 3 phone conversations with B&M, B&M is advising me to return my shifter for a refund and these problems were due to my car being an "anomaly." Take your own risk on whether your car is an "anomaly" too. I put the stock shifter back in with the bushing and the **** tightened up without compressing the boot just like it was before, hence how I easily question the "anomaly" idea.
Bottom line, the B&M shifter is a horribly designed POS. Summit Racing is taking great care of me. The are not only going to refund the cost of the shifter, but also the handling charge(there was no shipping) and the return shipping charge.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Wow, that sucks! Sorry to hear about your problems with the B&M shifter. Great write up for those who are thinking about buying one. I was waiting to hear responses from members who installed B&M. I'm glad I purchase the Rogue(months ago). Ya, the control socket is a bitch, cost more, but the quality is great and it is a better shifter than stock. At least you are getting your money back. Maybe hit B&M up (money) for your time it took to install, trying to make it work, and then having to reinstall your stock shifter!
'03c6mt/Blk/Premium/Sport/Aero
Eibach's/Hyper-Ground/Ztube+JWT/Injen SES
Rogue/Momo/Sparco
'03c6mt/Blk/Premium/Sport/Aero
Eibach's/Hyper-Ground/Ztube+JWT/Injen SES
Rogue/Momo/Sparco
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Since the rogue uses the stock shifter cup, I can understand why it does not have the same problems. My experiences with B&M, they are not going to reimburse for any expense. The B&M has a 33% shift reduction, but the roque is only a 20% reduction. The reduction doesn't really matter though if the shifter doesn't work.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
[note: here's a copy of my reply from FA]
Wow, these comments stand out like a sore thumb compared to my experience and the overwhelming number of positive reviews I have read! The positive user reviews are in this thread at my350z.com. There are 9 reviewed installs, with 8 of the 9 installs resulting in the following favorable comments:
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.) I have driven Wld350Z's car with the B&M short shifter. Very awsum.. Like a Bolt Action Rifle - A little more Force - But Hand stays in nearly the same position.
2.) I just had the pleasure to drive and feel the shifter and it is incredible and smooth. This is a definate mod to get for me. I had a 3.5 altima with a mossy short shifter and this is wayyyyyy better than anything I've ever driven...Amazing product...
3.) The B&M Shifter is a great improvement over stock.. Butter smooth..
4.) man this is the absolute best 200 dollars i have spent!!!!!!!! they say it reduces the throw by 30% but i swear it seems like more....its almost just flicking your wrist to shift gears....put together well and it is great......shifts are very precise and crisp!!!!
5.) no noise or vibration at all....it is extreamly sturdy....man you cant go wrong with this thing i swear......i was amazed at this thing...very rugged and well built
6.) it really looks stock.....its about 1/2 inch shorter....the throw is enough that if you have it in 2nd 4th or 6th and looking into the car it almost looks to be in neutural....
7.) I installed mine took me about an hour. Went for a test drive. It is GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Second gear is right there. You do have to get used to it. I think it's different from the stock one. Best 200 I spent. But no vibration or nothing.
8.) B&M Shifter... what can I say that hasn't already been said? Easily the best $200 I spent for an upgrade. If you enjoy a notchy shift this is your shifter. The gates are very clean and very precise. I have zero issues with reverse, however, 5th and 6th are a bit taller then I remember but not by much at all if any. Shifts are noticeably faster and more responsive. I think the 33% reduction is right on target. Again, this isn't an upgrade you should pass on if you are interested in really getting faster shifts. All and all I think the B&M was my favorite DIY upgrade. It was a bit challenging with the bolt underneth (not much room) and this is where I spent most of my time.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There was also one install that presented difficulties and these negative comments:
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I recieved mine earlier today(friday) and got it installed. Shifts good. One thing I notice is when the rpm's go above 4k the shifter makes a wierd noise. I also noticed it on the freeway. I think it may be the rev. pin tapping the plate when in 5th & 6th gear. Anyone else have this problen. If so how do I fix it?
[same poster, next post] I think the rattle is coming from the shift ****. What would the reason be for this?
[same poster, next post] Maybe not. I can't figure it out and it's kinda driving me crazy. I like the way iot shifts, but for $200, I'm not sure the noise is worth it.
[same poster, different thread] I get a wierd vibrating noise and can't seem to figure it out. Only around 4000k and I also get a wierd noise when shifting. don't notice any vibration though. I thought it was excess grease around the black piece, but I tremoved it all. Then iI noticed some kind of fluid around the ball that goes into the gold color ball. If anyone has any ideas please help me out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since there are no further posts from this poster, I don't know if he solved the problem or what. I do remember reading a post about a RE shifter install where the **** buzzed, and the guy was able to tighten the **** down enough to eliminate it. Regardless, there seems to be a hell of alot more positive than negative reviews about this shifter to date.
Because I have installed a B&M shifter on my sedan and my experience differed so markedly from the reviewer, I felt I should respond to a couple of the comments.
- I had no problem positioning the top plate so all gears engaged properly. There was, however, a fair amount of trial and error necessary to acheive this, but I wanted to make certain everything worked perfectly before replacing the console, etc.
- The positioning of the upper shaft to the lower shaft was correct for my shifter. No bushing problems either. In fact, I remain rather impressed with the heft and quality.
- The B&M is definitely notchier but noticibly shorter, and I can now shift in the blink of an eye, MUCH MUCH faster than before! Remember, the notchiness is not a result of the shifter, it is inherent to the tranny. With the change in pivot fulcrum, the shorter throw DOES accentuate the notchiness, and you really do feel each gear "click" as you move in and out. The shorter throw increases shifting force, however, I do not find an inordinate amount of effort necessary to change gears. There is much less play.
- My instructions did not say to remove the camfered shifter **** bushing. But then again, they did not say to reuse it either. It didn't even mention it. But since the length of threads on both shifters looked identical to me, I reused it. The **** snugged down onto the boot cap without a problem. I was careful to twist the boot seams slightly counter-clockwise so when I reached the point of snug, they would straighten without stress.
- The pivot ball housing on my shifter has a rubber O-ring set into a recessed channel around the top. Both are dark so it might be tough to see. This prevents a vibration between the ball housing and the new top plate. Any vibration, IMO, is more likely the result of the new housing rattling in the control socket cup. Obviously, there has to be some play for the ball housing to move up and down in the control socket cup to get to reverse. Since the oem control socket is plastic and slips directly into the cup (it doesn't have an enclosed housing like the B&M), you don't have the possibility of metal to metal vibrations. I would note that there was very little "slop" between these two pieces, certainly tighter than oem, and I used the entire grease tube in the cup (per the instructions) to help minimize this potential vibration. I have no noise unless I hold the shifter tight against a gate.
- Contrary to one post I saw, this shifter is NOT a single piece. It is two piece, with a bonded rubber(?) insert to help absorb tranny vibration. All in all, I would say there may be slightly more vibration felt when keeping your hand lightly on the ****.
Install took 1-1/2 hours by myself in my garage. Easy job, a 4 on a 10 scale of difficulty with absolutely no surprises. I used the instructions from B&M, plus the instructions on Rogue's site and from a site called "350Zchicks" (or something like that) found in the thread mentioned above. I just went slow and careful. The only glaring omission I found in these instructions was a lack of warning regarding the removal of the shifter ****. That bastard is on m'fn tight, and you have to be careful you don't damage the linkage when removing it. Nissan Service Bulletin (NTB02-102) deals with the recommended way to remove the ****.
Respectfully, I must disagree that the B&M short shifter is "a horribly designed POS." I would agree with the majority that this was time and money well spent. In fact, I am firmly in the "best mod under $200" camp. Love it!
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
Wow, these comments stand out like a sore thumb compared to my experience and the overwhelming number of positive reviews I have read! The positive user reviews are in this thread at my350z.com. There are 9 reviewed installs, with 8 of the 9 installs resulting in the following favorable comments:
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.) I have driven Wld350Z's car with the B&M short shifter. Very awsum.. Like a Bolt Action Rifle - A little more Force - But Hand stays in nearly the same position.
2.) I just had the pleasure to drive and feel the shifter and it is incredible and smooth. This is a definate mod to get for me. I had a 3.5 altima with a mossy short shifter and this is wayyyyyy better than anything I've ever driven...Amazing product...
3.) The B&M Shifter is a great improvement over stock.. Butter smooth..
4.) man this is the absolute best 200 dollars i have spent!!!!!!!! they say it reduces the throw by 30% but i swear it seems like more....its almost just flicking your wrist to shift gears....put together well and it is great......shifts are very precise and crisp!!!!
5.) no noise or vibration at all....it is extreamly sturdy....man you cant go wrong with this thing i swear......i was amazed at this thing...very rugged and well built
6.) it really looks stock.....its about 1/2 inch shorter....the throw is enough that if you have it in 2nd 4th or 6th and looking into the car it almost looks to be in neutural....
7.) I installed mine took me about an hour. Went for a test drive. It is GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Second gear is right there. You do have to get used to it. I think it's different from the stock one. Best 200 I spent. But no vibration or nothing.
8.) B&M Shifter... what can I say that hasn't already been said? Easily the best $200 I spent for an upgrade. If you enjoy a notchy shift this is your shifter. The gates are very clean and very precise. I have zero issues with reverse, however, 5th and 6th are a bit taller then I remember but not by much at all if any. Shifts are noticeably faster and more responsive. I think the 33% reduction is right on target. Again, this isn't an upgrade you should pass on if you are interested in really getting faster shifts. All and all I think the B&M was my favorite DIY upgrade. It was a bit challenging with the bolt underneth (not much room) and this is where I spent most of my time.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There was also one install that presented difficulties and these negative comments:
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I recieved mine earlier today(friday) and got it installed. Shifts good. One thing I notice is when the rpm's go above 4k the shifter makes a wierd noise. I also noticed it on the freeway. I think it may be the rev. pin tapping the plate when in 5th & 6th gear. Anyone else have this problen. If so how do I fix it?
[same poster, next post] I think the rattle is coming from the shift ****. What would the reason be for this?
[same poster, next post] Maybe not. I can't figure it out and it's kinda driving me crazy. I like the way iot shifts, but for $200, I'm not sure the noise is worth it.
[same poster, different thread] I get a wierd vibrating noise and can't seem to figure it out. Only around 4000k and I also get a wierd noise when shifting. don't notice any vibration though. I thought it was excess grease around the black piece, but I tremoved it all. Then iI noticed some kind of fluid around the ball that goes into the gold color ball. If anyone has any ideas please help me out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since there are no further posts from this poster, I don't know if he solved the problem or what. I do remember reading a post about a RE shifter install where the **** buzzed, and the guy was able to tighten the **** down enough to eliminate it. Regardless, there seems to be a hell of alot more positive than negative reviews about this shifter to date.
Because I have installed a B&M shifter on my sedan and my experience differed so markedly from the reviewer, I felt I should respond to a couple of the comments.
- I had no problem positioning the top plate so all gears engaged properly. There was, however, a fair amount of trial and error necessary to acheive this, but I wanted to make certain everything worked perfectly before replacing the console, etc.
- The positioning of the upper shaft to the lower shaft was correct for my shifter. No bushing problems either. In fact, I remain rather impressed with the heft and quality.
- The B&M is definitely notchier but noticibly shorter, and I can now shift in the blink of an eye, MUCH MUCH faster than before! Remember, the notchiness is not a result of the shifter, it is inherent to the tranny. With the change in pivot fulcrum, the shorter throw DOES accentuate the notchiness, and you really do feel each gear "click" as you move in and out. The shorter throw increases shifting force, however, I do not find an inordinate amount of effort necessary to change gears. There is much less play.
- My instructions did not say to remove the camfered shifter **** bushing. But then again, they did not say to reuse it either. It didn't even mention it. But since the length of threads on both shifters looked identical to me, I reused it. The **** snugged down onto the boot cap without a problem. I was careful to twist the boot seams slightly counter-clockwise so when I reached the point of snug, they would straighten without stress.
- The pivot ball housing on my shifter has a rubber O-ring set into a recessed channel around the top. Both are dark so it might be tough to see. This prevents a vibration between the ball housing and the new top plate. Any vibration, IMO, is more likely the result of the new housing rattling in the control socket cup. Obviously, there has to be some play for the ball housing to move up and down in the control socket cup to get to reverse. Since the oem control socket is plastic and slips directly into the cup (it doesn't have an enclosed housing like the B&M), you don't have the possibility of metal to metal vibrations. I would note that there was very little "slop" between these two pieces, certainly tighter than oem, and I used the entire grease tube in the cup (per the instructions) to help minimize this potential vibration. I have no noise unless I hold the shifter tight against a gate.
- Contrary to one post I saw, this shifter is NOT a single piece. It is two piece, with a bonded rubber(?) insert to help absorb tranny vibration. All in all, I would say there may be slightly more vibration felt when keeping your hand lightly on the ****.
Install took 1-1/2 hours by myself in my garage. Easy job, a 4 on a 10 scale of difficulty with absolutely no surprises. I used the instructions from B&M, plus the instructions on Rogue's site and from a site called "350Zchicks" (or something like that) found in the thread mentioned above. I just went slow and careful. The only glaring omission I found in these instructions was a lack of warning regarding the removal of the shifter ****. That bastard is on m'fn tight, and you have to be careful you don't damage the linkage when removing it. Nissan Service Bulletin (NTB02-102) deals with the recommended way to remove the ****.
Respectfully, I must disagree that the B&M short shifter is "a horribly designed POS." I would agree with the majority that this was time and money well spent. In fact, I am firmly in the "best mod under $200" camp. Love it!
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Loren,
Are you going to try the Rogue shifter then?
I would be really good if you can post a review about that too...
man, I would've expected the B&M one to be good since it comes with more stuff. guess I coul be wrong =P
Are you going to try the Rogue shifter then?
I would be really good if you can post a review about that too...
man, I would've expected the B&M one to be good since it comes with more stuff. guess I coul be wrong =P
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Shifter rattling problems are common with this shifter. I had over a dozen responses off other boards. I've had 5 people respond back about the shift **** cutting the boot when reinstalled. There simply a very big difference between myself and everyone else, I don't tolerate an inferior product. Everyone who has problems still responded they were happy with the product. They all admit it could be better, but are happy since there isn't a better alternative. I've had better shifters in other cars that didn't rattle, feel notchy or damage any part of my car and that is simply what I expect. I've had different Hurst shifters in my Mustangs: 90' 5.0L with a Hurst T5, 89' Saleen with an OEM Saleen Hurst and an 86' SVO with the OEM Hurst. None have any problems. The same went for the Stillen in my Maxima and the B&M I had in my CRX. The problem I had with any of them is the I have to take the Stillen apart every 2 years to remove the rust from the shifter pivot(they didn't use stainless).
I am enjoying my stock shifter again with a brand new shifter boot that my dealer did indeed warranty for me. With the fresh coat of grease on everything when reinstalling, it shifts slicker than ever. If I start to get tired of the throws, I will go Rogue immediately. I've had plenty response from Rogue owners that none had any of the problems I experienced with B&M. It isn't as short as the B&M, but it is an easy trade-off for the problems. Their shifter even uses the same cup and compression systems as the stock one to not crush the boot. Rogue even offered me a special price after hearing about my problems with B&M. The only disadvantage to it is how hard it is to get the shaft out of the stock cup. I would instead just order a new cup from the start.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
I am enjoying my stock shifter again with a brand new shifter boot that my dealer did indeed warranty for me. With the fresh coat of grease on everything when reinstalling, it shifts slicker than ever. If I start to get tired of the throws, I will go Rogue immediately. I've had plenty response from Rogue owners that none had any of the problems I experienced with B&M. It isn't as short as the B&M, but it is an easy trade-off for the problems. Their shifter even uses the same cup and compression systems as the stock one to not crush the boot. Rogue even offered me a special price after hearing about my problems with B&M. The only disadvantage to it is how hard it is to get the shaft out of the stock cup. I would instead just order a new cup from the start.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Well, you know what I find disheartening about this thread? Not that there may be different viewpoints, hell, that happens all the time. But, rather, that so many people who apparently experienced some sort of problem spent the same amount of time to PM one individual instead of posting publicly. The value of every forum is commensurate with the membership's willingness to contribute publicly, particularly when it comes to product warnings. If there is indeed a large contingent of folks having significant problems with this shifter (unrelated to install), I for one would definitely like to hear of them.
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: riverside, CA
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
i had a few problems with mine when i first put it in but im sure after fooling around with the triangular plate i was able to make it to my liking. I suggest just moving around the metal plate till you like it.
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Sorry for bringing back an old thread but I wanted to append some new comments and pics here as it was the original B&M Shifter thread (other thread HERE).
First, let me say that everything I wrote above was accurate at the time. However, it was shortly thereafter that things began to go bad and I'll do my best to explain...
1.) Although I always had a fair amount of vibration and a bit of audible rattle in the oem shifter during W.O.T. romps, the vibration was noticably increased after the B&M shifter. Initially, it was only a tactile annoyance, rather than an audible one. After a number of weeks though, a very audible rattle appeared to coincide with the vibration. This initially occured only at high rpm's near redline when rowing thru the gears (any), but soon began to exhibit itself at lower rpm's when accelerating as well. So obviously, I decided to call B&M. Some new info that came to light with my subsequent conversations: the pivot ball housing pre-attached on the shifter assembly is NOT made of aluminum as previously noted and stated in most vendor website marketing. According to the design engineer it is a plastic - delrin perhaps, I don't recall exactly anymore, but not metal. Initially, I thought metal-to-metal contact (i.e., the metal pivot ball housing vibrating in the metal transmission cup) was the culprit. Apparently not. Also, the 2-piece shift lever is not entirely machined SS, only the bottom. The top is machined of aluminum. The pivot ball itself is brass. Regardless, the end result was they have received only "isolated" rattling complaints which they a.) contend some rattle is normal for all short shifters; b.) have not seen enough complaints from either 350z or G35 apps to suggest a pattern problem and; c.) have no fix other than to remove it. Pretty much Loren's experience revisited. Sympathetic perhaps, but no help.
2.) Now, had the rattle not been so persistent thru out the entire rpm range I might have been tempted to put up with it for the gloriously short shifts. Unfortunately, after several weeks, I completely lost the 5th gear lock-out without warning. I went to shift into 5th and it just kept right on going all the way right until directly over Reverse. Apparently my initial install positioning of the top plate for proper operation of the lock-out function was adequate, but metal wear of the tang and plate may have caused it to fail. The top plate did not move, and the bolts were tight. I tried to readjust the top plate on a total of three separate occasions, but could never get it to a point where I was comfortable it was making proper contact so...
the shifter has been removed.
Here are some pics showing the wear and positioning of the tang and top plate. Sorry, not hosted so I can’t do multiple pics. One at a time I guess…
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
First, let me say that everything I wrote above was accurate at the time. However, it was shortly thereafter that things began to go bad and I'll do my best to explain...
1.) Although I always had a fair amount of vibration and a bit of audible rattle in the oem shifter during W.O.T. romps, the vibration was noticably increased after the B&M shifter. Initially, it was only a tactile annoyance, rather than an audible one. After a number of weeks though, a very audible rattle appeared to coincide with the vibration. This initially occured only at high rpm's near redline when rowing thru the gears (any), but soon began to exhibit itself at lower rpm's when accelerating as well. So obviously, I decided to call B&M. Some new info that came to light with my subsequent conversations: the pivot ball housing pre-attached on the shifter assembly is NOT made of aluminum as previously noted and stated in most vendor website marketing. According to the design engineer it is a plastic - delrin perhaps, I don't recall exactly anymore, but not metal. Initially, I thought metal-to-metal contact (i.e., the metal pivot ball housing vibrating in the metal transmission cup) was the culprit. Apparently not. Also, the 2-piece shift lever is not entirely machined SS, only the bottom. The top is machined of aluminum. The pivot ball itself is brass. Regardless, the end result was they have received only "isolated" rattling complaints which they a.) contend some rattle is normal for all short shifters; b.) have not seen enough complaints from either 350z or G35 apps to suggest a pattern problem and; c.) have no fix other than to remove it. Pretty much Loren's experience revisited. Sympathetic perhaps, but no help.
2.) Now, had the rattle not been so persistent thru out the entire rpm range I might have been tempted to put up with it for the gloriously short shifts. Unfortunately, after several weeks, I completely lost the 5th gear lock-out without warning. I went to shift into 5th and it just kept right on going all the way right until directly over Reverse. Apparently my initial install positioning of the top plate for proper operation of the lock-out function was adequate, but metal wear of the tang and plate may have caused it to fail. The top plate did not move, and the bolts were tight. I tried to readjust the top plate on a total of three separate occasions, but could never get it to a point where I was comfortable it was making proper contact so...
the shifter has been removed.
Here are some pics showing the wear and positioning of the tang and top plate. Sorry, not hosted so I can’t do multiple pics. One at a time I guess…
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
bottom side wear on top plate
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
293088-CIMG2124.JPG
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
293088-CIMG2124.JPG
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
Re: B&M shifter problems - getting returned
lock-out tang and top plate position
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
293097-CIMG2136.JPG
2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY
293097-CIMG2136.JPG