Hello all,
I just bought an '06 M6 G35 coupe. I really like the car, even though it is major step down speed wise than what I'm used to. But the car is so smooth and fun to drive, that I could care less. Now I have a DD and a weekend warrior, so I'm good

Anyways, I've noticed my clutch has the typical "play" in it when the pedal is released. Not sure how to explain it. When the clutch is fully disengaged (pedal fully released) the pedal has a few inches of "dead" zone, so to speak. That is not the problem though, as this is pretty normal in manuals, just differs from car to car. The problem is the pedal wants to stick at the bottom of this "dead" zone. I have to put my foot behind/under the clutch and lift up to get it to fully release. It doesn't feel like the clutch is partially engaged during this, but it's kinda like driving around with your foot depressing the clutch slightly. I've always been told to keep my foot off the clutch, or atleast apply zero pressure to the clutch when your just cruising. If I don't pop the clutch up out of this dead zone, it will just stay there, depressed basically right to the catch point. I'm wondering if anyone else has this feel to their clutch and if it's bad to drive like this. I have been trying to make sure it comes up all the way after shifts, but sometimes it's nice to have it right near the catch point.

I tried searching, but this problem may be a too specific. If I missed something in my searching, be nice, I'm a newbie!!!

Thanks all!

 

i got a 06 coupe 6mt..actually mine did stick and i took it to the dealer and got it fixed under warranty... they replaced the master clutch cyclinder (sorry for my spelling haha) and the clutch fluid lines.. and it fixed the issue.. for me it did.. i knew that because other 6mt 06 coupe drivers had it replaced at the dealer and fixed the issues.. don't know if that helps. any other way the clutch can stick like that is if you tried to do a burn out or burn your clutch..

 

Nah, no burnouts. Not why I have the car.

I'm wondering if your situation was similar to mine. Mine doesn't stick when engaging or disengaging, the clutch itself feels fine. The pedal just doesn't return all the way up when disengaging. It feels like the clutch itself completely disengages, but the pedal stays at the bottom of the "dead zone" (so to speak...).

I looked down at the clutch pedal and assembly, and it looks like the little button may not get pressed when the pedal is not returned all the way up. Do you know what I mean?

I'm wondering if all I need is some WD40...

Although the master does make sense. I don't think adjusting the master will have any affect on this, but I may need to have the master replaced and clutch lines to get rid of this.

 

If WD40 doesnt do it I would suggest Verizon Wireless. It comes with the network so "dead zones" (so to speak) are a thing of the past.

 

The G35 has two switches that are contacted by the clutch pedal. The first is the clutch interlock switch, that is found closest to the firewall, that must be triggered to start the car (with the pedal depressed) the second is the ASCD switch which can be found at the top of the clutch travel when the pedal is fully released.

Both of these switches can be adjusted by loosening the threaded lock-nut and then twisting the switch to move it closer or farther from the clutch lever contact. If the pedal has a lot of dead space at the top of the pedal travel you will want to adjust the ASCD switch down (or closer to the pedal). Having a miss-adjustment of this switch can also cause a "thunk" when the pedal is released (this has been referenced many times here).

When adjusting the depth of this switch you want to make sure that the switch is engaged by the clutch lever when the pedal is released but you do not want there to be any constant pressure on the pedal as this could cause the clutch to sit partially release during normal driving (leading to clutch slippage). To insure that you have this switch properly adjusted you can check the clevis pin (this piece slides through the clutch pedal/lever assembly and is held in place by a cotter pin) for free movement. If the pin is bound up or not moving freely it means that there is too much pressure being exerted by the switch and that you need to back the ASCD switch away from the lever a bit.

I find that the switch is adjusted properly when the pedal can release fully without having excessive play at the top of its travel. I also make sure that there is no "thunk" when the pedal is fully released as this indicates that there is too much free play.

I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!

 

Actually, that was very helpful. Since I just bought the car, I'm going to take it back to dealership and tell them to fix it. Plus, I'm still under 48,000 miles, so warranty should cover this, I think...

I'll keep you posted, and thanks for the advice!

 

I am glad that this info helped. Let me know if I may be of any further assistance!

 

Just wanted to give an update to anyone interested. Picked my car up late Friday. They replaced the master and slave cylinders. Said they found leaks in both. Pedal feels perfect now. Much better!

 

I am glad that they were able to help you and that they did it under warranty.

 

I actually bought the car from CarMax, and they have a 30-day warranty on all sales. They gave me a rental and fixed the issue for no charge. Great service. I'm glad I spent a little extra to buy from a reliable source, as opposed to buying cheaper from an individual or a shady used car lot.