On this fine labor day evening I decided to change the clutch master cylinder since it was fairly cool outside. This took about 2 hours and would take less if I didn't take pics for the DIY. I was originally expecting 4 hours but this was really easy and I enjoyed changing it. The clutch pedal feels a lot better and it's very smooth and doesn't make anymore noise and hasn't stuck half way to the floor as of yet. I also flushed the power steering fluid and have pics of old vs new fluid.

The procedure is very simple. First take off the hard line off the cylinder with a 10mm flexible line wrench. Fluid will leak so I put some paper towels under the cylinder to catch it. Also take off the bolts from the reservoir.
Inside the car the cylinder has 2 bolts holding it to the firewall and 1 bolt that goes through the pedal assembly with a cotter safety pin. I took off the foot rest and the cover off the fuse box to make room. Take the bolts off and pull the cylinder out from under the hood. Take the hose off the old cylinder and pour some brake fluid through the reservoir and rubber line to flush out any old fluid. Mine was an opaque yellow color because the grease from the old cylinder got diluted with brake fluid contaminating it - probably why it failed. Put the hose and reservoir on the new cylinder and old gasket and install it in reverse order. Putting the hard line back on the new cylinder is tricky. Bleed the system. I bled the system by myself without help or a bleeder kit. I also installed a rubber o ring (pictured) around the cylinder because I didn't like the way the grease was coming out of the old one. Probably wont help but doesn't hurt.

 

thanks for all the pics and DIY, though it would be better if you somewhat explained what you are doing in each pic

But update on the replacement? My clutch is squeaky as hell and it annoys the **** out of me. I've read that a lot of people have gotten their master cylinder replaced by the dealership however it did not fix the problem. Was it fixed for you?

 

Well update is that it didn't fix it. It's the slave cylinder that is bad which is expected, not master. Need to replace that when I change the clutch. Too bad I threw away the original master cylinder because it was still good.

 

Can you clarify a bit?

You had a sticky clutch pedal that stuck halfway before the MC replacment. After replacing the MC, it did NOT fix the sticky clutch pedal problem?

I bleeded the clutch fluid 2 times and there's no air in the clutch line, but the pedal still sticks after 20 minutes of city driving under warm days. So I am proceeding to have the MC replaced.

I am about to get my MC replaced because my clutch pedal is sticking and sometime stuck half way.

I read that the MC is the problem and nothing to do with the slave.

Thanks.

 

I had that same exact problem. The issue for me was that the brake fluid was overheating. I replaced it with a higher quality dot 4 instead of the oem dot3 and haven't had a problem since. Not even in the last 3 days when it was 100+ over in jersey.

 

what do u guys use to bleed the slave and the mc.... many say the old school two people person is the best way??

 

Why can't you replace the slave cylinder right now instead of waiting for clutch. It is a pretty cheap part and right here on the side of the transmission where you did your clutch bleeding from

 

So i just replaced my Master Cylinder over the weekend because my clutch would not come back up all the way. I got the new one and it was fine right after i installed it, pedal would come up all the way and it was nice and firm. The next morning i get in the car clutch pedal doesnt come back up all the way up i have to lift it up with my foot. What on earth could be causing this??

 

Are you certain you bleed all of the air out of the system through the slave cylinder? I have also read that it is good to prime the master cylinder prior to installing it. Not sure how it's done.
My pedal is doing the same when it's hot and I plan on taking it to the Nissan dealer to replace the master and slave cylinder. I'm not comfortable bleeding the system that why I'm taking it to the dealer. I'm still debating changing out the hydraulic line with a SS line or even a new OEM line. Mines an 06 with 98K miles.

 

Im going to install the SS line this weekend and bleed it again. See what happens after that.

 

Here ya go: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...-cylinder.html

 

Has anyone noticed rough shifting when Either the slave or master are going bad? My shifting is very rough, and I'm constantly putting clutch fluid in my car so I know I have a leak. It feels like my clutch isn't engaging completely, maybe causing the rough shifting? I am
Replacing the slave and master, which should I do first? I have both and I'm gonna do them at the same time, but which should be done first?