I've been trying to do research about clutch+flywheel combos, as I want to go to something a little lighter, but I don't want to compromise the daily drive-ability too much. I'm thinking about one of these three. There's not a lot on this forum about these two options so I figured I'd ask if anybody had any feedback on one of these?

1. South Bend SS Quiet Clutch Kit & Flywheel 350Z G35 DE
14.5 lb Aluminum flywheel - $840

2. ZSpeed Stage 1 Clutch & W/ Flywheel Option Combo
25 lb Ductile Iron flywheel - $649
18 lb ZSP Forged Steel - $749
18 lb Southbend billet steel - $849

3. Z1 350Z / G35 VQ35DE Clutch & Flywheel Combo w/ mild performance clutch
21 lb Solid 4140 Forged Steel mid weight flywheel - $598

Is there anything else I should be considering that's either quiet disc or mid weight?

Out of these options, I'm mostly thinking about the ZSP Stage 1 w/18lb forged VS the Z1 mid weight. Since I'm not going FI (at least not for a long time), I'm not sure the high performance ones are worth it.

Also, obviously, I'd like for it to last, so if one of these is known for poor quality that'd be good to know.

Jim Wolf

In my first G I did an OE to OE clutch/flywheel job, and was happy with it. I purchased my current with a JWT clutch / single weight flywheel already installed. I like it better than stock.

Interesting, that's definitely an option, but is it worth it over the other ones?

IMO yes, the chatter from the single mass flywheel doesn't bother me, grab is excellent and it feels a little lighter/quicker (though it was tough to compare apples to apples since it was in a different car).

I am surprised there is no JWT clutch and FW combo from your list, it comes with bonus kit ss lines etc for $725 shipped from Concept Z. I have mine and currently at 6k miles on it and never had any issues, just need to get used to chatter.

SS lines was also a nice upgrade, though it may have just been the new fluid required to install the line that made the difference. Either way, clutch pedal was noticeably more precise.

Well JWT doesn't do a lightweight + quiet disk option. The 26 pound iron flywheel combo costs $725 but the Z1 21 pound mid weight flywheel combo is like $127 less. I think the reason the JWT is more expensive is because it's rated to like 570HP which is way the **** more than I need lol.

It is up to you, I went with JWT cuz it is the best bang for the buck. Mine is nowhere near 570hp but the fw has replaceable friction plate and more durable than compared to other sets. The FW from the combo only weighs 14lbs which makes rev matching night and day.

In for silent clutch reviews. I pieced together my own clutch using a CZP 19 lbs flywheel (mid-weight?) and a stock replacement Exedy NSK1000. Grabs great, but sounds like rocks in a steel drum while at parking lot speeds. It's pretty annoying at this point.

I think for Gs mid weight is more like 20-25?

Also, I'll bet there's lots of chatter with that 14lb JWT flywheel combo

Are you really looking to replace a clutch again? You'll need to in another 180k Miles ya don't need to start looking already .

Not really, but I might, lol. Stock one lasted like 220k, this one is just annoyingly loud.

I'm going back and forth on rebuilding the engine or getting another car, if I rebuild I'm probably gonna change up the clutch.

Pretty sure my RMS just started leaking and contaminated my clutch even though I don't see fluid at the bell housing yet. Not sure if I want to throw another Z1 clutch in or try a different brand.

Sort of kicking myself right now for not just doing the RMS when I had it all apart but it wasn't leaking at the time...

It's one of those things. Damned if I do, damned if I don't. I've been burned by rubber parts too often so I always replace now.

I'm going through this on the Goat. Slave cylinder is starting to fail at only 63K miles (known weak point) so I'm replacing it, the clutch, rear main cover/gasket and adding a Tick remote speed bleeder. Bleeding the clutch is nearly impossible on our cars without removing the transmission and I'm replacing the slave with a new, beefed up OEM Fbody slave. A lot of people on the GTO forums I'm on haven't replaced the rear main when replacing the clutch and it's come back to burn them a little later. And it's only $50 for an OEM part so I figured why the hell not.