this is a stupid question...are all three pedals for a manual G suppose to line up str8? my gas pedal is so low compared to my clutch and break pedals. Can i raise up my gas pedal a bit? if so, how?

 

The clutch pedal is relocated shortening its throw and moving the engagement point forward. It is completely disengaged in its range of travel. I don't see how this will reduce friction and increase wear and tea.

However, just the change in driving character for me at least is worth any percieved (although probably unsubstantiated) longterm damage that might occur to the clutch. It is fully disengaged!

 

So what we are talking about here is the level travelled to disengage the clutch, for less abrupt modulation. For a guy like me with shorter legs, could I actually raise the pedal (closer to me) without affecting the stock modulation? I would love to be able to put my seat in a position a little further back, but clutch reaching could be a problem. Hopefully there is a solution. Thanks guys

 

This adjustment was one of the first things I did when I got the G a year and a half ago. I've been driving manual Transmissions since I started driving 17 years ago, and the G35 was the worse. I got tired of hitting my knee on the steering wheel just for the clutch to engage(exaggerating of course). For those who want to adjust their clutch:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...adjustment.jpg

1- Loosen the locknut. Use some pliers or a punch to hold the fork(I used a punch), then take a 12mm wrench and break the locknut loose.
2- Push down slightly on the clutch pedal to release the tension on the rod.
3- Turn the rod clockwise. You'll notice that the rod is threading deeper INTO the fork.
4- Tighten the locknut.

I turned the actuator 3 times...but start off with 2 and see how you like it.


http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...lder_id=551133

 

Yea you should be able to back it out and get the opposite effect. Give it a try and let us know how it goes

 

Leverage is another very important thing to mention with this mod. As mentioned the engagement point of the clutch is moved forward. This creates a larger angle of your foot against the pedal giving you better leverage and more precise control.

 

Man I've been wanting to do this mod for so long. I tried to do it awhile back but it just can't happen. I'm 6'4", 255lbs. there is no way I can get back there. My shoulders are just too wide. It totally sucks because I want to make this change very badly!!

I completely agree with those that think the G's engagement point is too high. I've been driving stick for 14 years and the G feels sloppy to me. 1st to 2nd is definitely the worst!!

 

Yea it was a pretty tight fit and I'm not even that big (6' 190). You should hook up with a G or Z owner in your neck and have them do it for ya, it only takes like 5 min per adjustment if you've done it before.

 

If you are working within the freeplay then you are fine as far as engagement.

Though, I've had some issues with Nissan Clutch Master Cylinders in the past as they are designed differently then I've seen in other cars. They used a valve to release line pressure when you release the pedal. If the adjustment didn't allow enough freeplay, it would actually never release pressure and eventually, it would start keeping the piston in the slave cylinder extended even with the pedal completely released, as there would always be pressure in the line. I'm not sure if current Nissan clutch MC's are made this way, but I this was in my 91 240sx. I never took my clutch MC out in my 98 240sx so I don't know about that one.

 

This concern was raised on the freshalloy forums, and is the reason I have not performed this adjustment.

 

Well....Yeah....maybe if you adjusted it too far down!

But I know that mine had a whole lot of extra play at the top....and I just took that out....about 2-3 turns.

Now the clutch and brake pedals are at the same height.

Makes driving much easier for me.


One question I do have though....... in one of the above descriptions of how to make the adjustment.....they said to "loosen the lock nut and turn the rod"...

I'm not sure about that....what is happening on the other end of the rod if you do that???

I took the yolk off the pedal and turned the yolk...not the rod!

 

Synergy....I am 6'2, 260, former college football player with huge shoulders...and I got in there :-) ....secret is to lay on your back across the kickplates and seat, get a headlamp (or do it on a really sunny day) and have very small tools. (small pliers for the pin and retaining bolt and a short wrench.....

 

Nothing. The rod is designed to be able to spin independently of the piston inside the MC. You won't cause any damage, if that's what you are getting at.

 

I didn't catch this one before. But no. Since the rod attaches at the same point on the pedal, leverage does not change. The engagement point is not moved by changing leverage. All you are doing here is pushing or pulling the rod into the M/C slightly. If you lengthen the rod, it basically acts as if you are pushing down on the pedal proportionately to the amount you lengthen the rod by.