Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has evidence (either from a direct reliable source or has happened to you) of this modification damaging the clutch/syncros/thowout bearing? The mod is essentially lowering your clutch pedal in relation to your clutch master cylinder so it does not engage as high. I've seen posts here and there about people hearing that this mod has caused problems for people, but its always been hearsay.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...=&fpart=1&vc=1

 

I'm also looking to hear some more comments on this. The last poster on your link seemed to have some additional information about the cons of doing this adjustment as well.

 

I've posted the same thread on a few other boards, so hopefully (or rather, not) we'll hear something. I'll post any relevant responses here as well.

Yeah, I can see the mechanics behind it, and without enough travel of the master cylinder piston, there may be insufficient movement on the slave cylinder side. But would you not notice damage being done (ie harder to put it into a gear, etc), and would the damage just be faster wear of the clutch plates, or also the synrcos? I would be okay with losing as much as 10k of life on the clutch if I can keep the clutch position i have now, its so much easier to drive smoothly. But I'd hate to be damaging other parts of the tranny. I'm familar with motorcycle clutches so I've never had to deal with a syncros, but maybe someone who knows the G35 tranny inside and out can chime in?

 

As long as the shifts are clean--meaning that your clutch fully disengages when the pedal is to the floor--you're fine. In other words, you should never have gear clash. Just set it up to start engaging around 1" off the floor.

The whole point of this adjustment is to make your shifts quicker, cleaner and smoother. A high clutch is harder to feather and more likely to slip longer before engaging. That's not good for the clutch.

 

I would agree.
I don't have any practical experience with the G clutch,
but have adjusted many over the years.

Above all else, you need enough travel to fully disengage when the clutch is pushed in.
AND fully engaged when released.

Also, be aware that this may change with wear, requiring futher adjustment

 

Mine has been reajusted to 1" from the floor since a few months after I bought my 6MT in March 2003. I have 30K miles with no problems to report. I really started enjoying the 6MT after this minor mod. Warning: do not over do it. Make sure the clutch is fully disengaged at least 1: from the floor and you will be OK. Do not forget to re-ajust the Cruise Control sensor...

Good luck.

 

^ what he said

I dont understand why some dealers are refusing to do this.

 

sorry for the nub question but, what does the Cruise Control senor look like and how are you supposed to adjust it?

 

Its the switch the clutch arm presses when in the out position, can't miss it. Just let the clutch out and follow the clutch pedal up and it will be the first thing touching the front side of the clutch pedal arm. If I remember correctly the part that touches the clutch arm is a small black bit that looks like the button part of a black retractable pen. The rest is a rectagular box held by a metal bracket. You want to adjust it so that it sits closer to the pedal arm so as to ensure good and complete contact. IIRC you'll need a 10m open end/crescent wrench.

The point of the switch is to disengage the cruise control when the clutch is pressed so as to prevent the cruise control from over reving (<--- one word?).

 

Nah, just have to kinda wedge yourself under your dashboard, near your foot pedals. If you're a big guy and/or have big hands, the mod will be harder for you, but its easy once you understand what to adjust. The link above has nice pictures of the stuff in question. Did it out in my driveway in 20 mins with my $20 toolkit.

 

I have an '03C 6MT, and went to try this last night. I'm 6', 230lbs. and though I could mash myself into the footwell alright with a worklight, I couldn't manage to get to the nut to release it. There was a bracket in the way closer to the brake pedal side of things, and then the fuse box panel cover was in the way on the other side.

I thought I'd be so brilliant and remove the fuse panel cover to gain more space, and when I tried the 12mm in there, it slipped down into the bottom of the fuse panel, and is now unreachable! I suppose I could remove panels, etc. though I did notice a hole in the underside of the car near where the bottom of the fuse panel would be - guessing it's a drainage hole of sorts. I couldn't get my meaty fingers in there either, so I was thinking about doing an abrubt stop to (hopefully) slide the lost wrench forward enough to pull it out. Other than that, I guess removing panels is the only way to get to it - or get one of kids to reach for it!

Beyond that though - I simply couldn't get enough access to that nut to release it - and then my concern was "if" I did manage to release and adjust it, I may not be able to adequately tighten the nut again, so I called it a night.

If anyone has bright ideas on how to get the wrench out, and/or how to get better access to that nut, please let me know.

Yes, I'm a loser for losing the wrench down there, but I'd bet I won't be the last!

 

Go pick up one of those magnetic 'reach' tools. Mine has a small handle and about a foot of softer metal line that can be bent/shaped easily. Of course, there's a magnet on the end. It's helped me a few times.

I don't want to start a new thread on this: Have any of you dropped anything between your seat and the trans. tunnel? ****!! I've torn up my hands trying to get my keys back after they fell into that crevice. The seat won't go far enough forward or back to get better access, and the seat rails block you from getting to that area from underneath the seat. I'm thinking I'm going to have to keep my magnetic 'reach' tool in the glovebox just to help with the next time they fall down there. I was considering sticking some matching fabric between there to block the area off, but the 'reach' tool might be a better idea. Of course, anything not metal still presents a problem retrieving, so maybe something to block the area is still a good idea.

Try one to grab at your wrench. The magnet it pretty strong.

 

Thanks GT-Ron - I'll hit Home Depot and/or CDN Tire over lunch and give that a try.

It seems a bit odd that they'd have a bottomless pit right near where you will be swapping fuses - you'd think they'd have either a more accessible fuse panel, or build in some kind of bottom under it. Can't see the logic, unless Infiniti also owns the Magnetic Reaching Tool company. Ditto for your seat/trans tunnel issue. Thanks again.

 

GT-Ron - the magnetic reach tool worked beautifully - took all of 2 seconds (literally) to get the wrench back out.

But I still have the problem of not having decent enough access to the nut behind the fork to release it with a standard length wrench.

I've seen the stubby wrenches (shorter) but it doesn't seem like I can get to it as easily as everyone else seems to be able to.

A neighbour that works on 1/4 mile cars suggested that I secure the nut and then turn the knurled shaft if I can't get a decent movement on the nut. I'm also going to put a small mirror at the back of the footwell to be able to see the nut better as I work away at this.

Anyone in York Region (Ontario) that has done this before and could lend a hand or advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

Mike

 

As a start, I had mines set at 1.75 turns and still above the brake pedal's height. What's the safest/limit number of turns? 1.5, 1.75, or 2 turns? (for a05 6MTC) Thanks