Thank you so much

 

Yo G35_Mass. Great DIY! I am about to follow it tomorrow, but I have one problem.
I think the NGK plugs we use should have no anti seize lube on it.
Lubing the thread will throw off the torque value.

NGK states:
"All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head;
Thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants"

This article from NGK that I have linked might be useful.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

 

Thanks, this is very good info. I will be replacing my plugs soon, and this info came just in time.

 

I would use anti-sieze anyway. With these spark plugs, you don't set them to a particular torque with a torque wrench. You screw them in by hand until the metal ring gasket contacts the cylinder head (i.e., until you can't turn it by hand any more,) and then you tighten it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. While I realize that this implies some torque value, what you're really trying to achieve is a certain amount of crush on the metal ring gasket on the spark plug. On plugs with tapered seats, you just turn them another 1/16 to 1/8 turn.

Either way you go about it, you should realize that you're not going to hurt anything by using a bit of anti-sieze, and there's a good chance that you might actually help something. I never, ever, under any circumstances install a spark plug - especially in an aluminum head - without using anti-sieze. It hasn't caused any problem yet in 25 years of tinkering with all kinds of engines, and it sure has made it easier the next time I've had to change plugs.

 

Since I need new valve covers, my dealer told me they would install the spark plugs I supplied for free. They would NOT provide spark plugs as they were a "maintenance item" if though the reason the plugs were ruined was because of the faulty valve cover o-ring !!! Anyways, I will get my car back today or tomorrow and I will ask the dealer if THEY use any anti-seize. It will be interesting to know!

 

Did my plugs this weekend, carbon likes to make the plug hang up, all I did was retighten them finger right and loosen them and they came right out.


This tool which you can find at AAP for 10 bucks made things easy as pie. It uses a strong magnet to hold the plug rather then rubber.

 

thank you for this thread! Did this DIY two weeks ago and no oil leak!

Only had an issue getting to #1...

 

Awesome thread! I need to do this before winter. (should be within the month )

 

Hi.
Planning a spark plug change on 08G35 sedan.Does the plenum need to be removed or can it be unbolted and raised out of the way.Apparently 08 onwards have twin air intakes and throttle bodies.Any help greatly appreciated

 

Got this done finally! I bought the plugs a year ago. I used the oem's and they work great! The car feels smoother now. Can't notice a major power difference. My old plugs were not as bad as the others I've seen. I have 87k miles.

I put some anti-seize on the 3 threads close to the white ceramic part of the plug. The old ones were a little hard to get out, so next time it should be easy.

 

Seems like plenum may need to be removed.Has anyone out there replaced plugs on 08 onwards w/two throttle valves?

 

Did this 2 days ago. Reasonably sure I cross threaded #3 coil bolt. ****er just would not cooperate in going back in smoothly. I spent nearly 20 minutes trying to line it up but it would never go back in quite right. So, I said "FU BOLT" and tightened her down. She screamed but did her job and the car operates great. It looks like the threads are in an insert on the valve cover so I'm not overly concerned with their ability to be fixed.

This is really quite simple. Just bring some different extensions and deep/shallow 10mm sockets. I found 1/4 drive the best because they're smaller and easier to work with.

It would have taken me considerably less time if my dang spark plug socket wouldn't leave the O-ring behind on the plug and not let me know til I'm trying to pull out the next plug and looking at it like 'wtf?' That cost me a good 15 minutes because I had to disassemble #1 again to get the o-ring back.

 

^

Forget the O ring type spark plug tools, go to Advance Auto and for 10 bucks buy the GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch Spark plug tool. Its really amazing and makes it all easy.

 

Has any one tried those E3 spark plugs Ive seen them on the speed channel they say there better performance and fuel millage ?

 

Thank You all for this excellent DIY project. The anti-seize product is a good suggestion. I have been using a modest amount of graphite on my plugs since '76 on my BMW 2002. Never have I had a problem removing any plugs after using the graphite. Some have commented about not getting any graphite into the cylinder so going with the anit-seize product would protect from that happening.

This forum is outstanding!