How to disconnect the battery
How to disconnect the battery
I'M A NEWB, so dont laff
I was reading how to reset the ECU. That thread has like 20+ pages so i didnt think it would have been a good idea to post a question which sorta regards to that but not competly
I couldnt get the ECU to work so i'm trying the battery thing now. i was reading if i disconnect the Negative and leave it off for 12 hours it should reset the ECU but i was also readin somehwere that if i reset the battery (negative) and press brakes 5 times, it should also do the trick instead of waiting 12 hours.
I opened up the battery case but didnt know how to take the negative out
DONT LAFF I SAID
Well there's a screw, do i unscrew that? or is there something else i need to do? I have a 03 sedan
thanks,
Manbir

I was reading how to reset the ECU. That thread has like 20+ pages so i didnt think it would have been a good idea to post a question which sorta regards to that but not competly
I couldnt get the ECU to work so i'm trying the battery thing now. i was reading if i disconnect the Negative and leave it off for 12 hours it should reset the ECU but i was also readin somehwere that if i reset the battery (negative) and press brakes 5 times, it should also do the trick instead of waiting 12 hours.
I opened up the battery case but didnt know how to take the negative out

DONT LAFF I SAID
Well there's a screw, do i unscrew that? or is there something else i need to do? I have a 03 sedan
thanks,
Manbir
Sedan pilot............
You have two sides to your battery. Always remove
the negative side, that's the one with the minus -
Like always there are no stupid questions!!!!
the negative side, that's the one with the minus -
Like always there are no stupid questions!!!!
On the battery cover, you will note a plus and minus for reference. The negative is on the left when viewed from the front of the car.
The battery posts are made out of lead so they are soft. The cables have kind of a strap type of attachment that squeezes the post, a little like a hose clamp in a way.
That screw and nut pull the strap tight around the battery post. Loosen the nut a little, but do not take it all the way off. At some point, the strap over the post will become loose enough to slide back and forth on the post. When it's loose enough, just wiggle it back and forth while pulling upwards and it will come off the post.
Before you reconnect it, make sure that everything, (including the key) in the car is off. It is a good idea to blow hard at the top of the battery just before reattaching the cable. But don't have your face anywhere near the battery when actually making the attachment.
Lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas, especially when charging. Hydrogen is extremely explosive and if hydrogen has collected around the top of the battery, the smallest spark could ignite it. There's also hydrogen inside the battery in the space above the acid pool. If it should explode, it will throw acid on everything nearby, which is why you want your face as far as possible from the action. Blowing on the battery just before making the connection will reduce the possibility of an explosive concentration of hydrogen being in the area.
The chances of any significant hydrogen being there is small, but there's no reason to take a chance. But this is the reason that, when jumping a car, the last connection (which WILL spark) should be made on some metal part of the engine or frame far from the battery.
I actually had a battery explode one time, but I was inside the car starting it at the time. It made an impressive bang and when I lifted the hood, the entire top of the battery was gone and everyting under there was wet with acid. If anyone would have been leaning under the hood, they would have been too!
The chances of an explosion are small, but the consequences too great to risk it by ignorance or carelessness.
The battery posts are made out of lead so they are soft. The cables have kind of a strap type of attachment that squeezes the post, a little like a hose clamp in a way.
That screw and nut pull the strap tight around the battery post. Loosen the nut a little, but do not take it all the way off. At some point, the strap over the post will become loose enough to slide back and forth on the post. When it's loose enough, just wiggle it back and forth while pulling upwards and it will come off the post.
Before you reconnect it, make sure that everything, (including the key) in the car is off. It is a good idea to blow hard at the top of the battery just before reattaching the cable. But don't have your face anywhere near the battery when actually making the attachment.
Lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas, especially when charging. Hydrogen is extremely explosive and if hydrogen has collected around the top of the battery, the smallest spark could ignite it. There's also hydrogen inside the battery in the space above the acid pool. If it should explode, it will throw acid on everything nearby, which is why you want your face as far as possible from the action. Blowing on the battery just before making the connection will reduce the possibility of an explosive concentration of hydrogen being in the area.
The chances of any significant hydrogen being there is small, but there's no reason to take a chance. But this is the reason that, when jumping a car, the last connection (which WILL spark) should be made on some metal part of the engine or frame far from the battery.
I actually had a battery explode one time, but I was inside the car starting it at the time. It made an impressive bang and when I lifted the hood, the entire top of the battery was gone and everyting under there was wet with acid. If anyone would have been leaning under the hood, they would have been too!
The chances of an explosion are small, but the consequences too great to risk it by ignorance or carelessness.
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I came across this thread while looking for a way to reset my ECU. I figured I would take some pics as I was disconnecting my battery to reset it.
Step 1. ID the Negative side. It is marked with a -

Step 2. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the nut on the battery terminal.

Step 3. Stow the strap in a safe place.

Step 4. (For ECU reset only) Let vehicle sit for 12 hours or so.
Step 5. Reinstall in opposite order.
Step 1. ID the Negative side. It is marked with a -

Step 2. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the nut on the battery terminal.

Step 3. Stow the strap in a safe place.

Step 4. (For ECU reset only) Let vehicle sit for 12 hours or so.
Step 5. Reinstall in opposite order.
bigfoots son? j/p your arm is not nearly as hairy as this guys..http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208462
Originally Posted by bull3t
bigfoots son? j/p your arm is not nearly as hairy as this guys..http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208462
Originally Posted by 99atlantic
Does making contact w/ the car's body ground you and reduce the chance of a spark 

When the ground is removed from the battery, it takes the entire car body out of the circuit so that an accidental contact with any metal part of the car cannot cause a spark or damage what you are working on while you are doing your project.
Whether you are touching the car body or not is irrelevant.
Originally Posted by Manbir_Sandhu
Thanks garry,
How do i remove the negative side? what i mean is, there's screw and a nut. do i unscrew it or do i remove it a different way?
How do i remove the negative side? what i mean is, there's screw and a nut. do i unscrew it or do i remove it a different way?
And if the end of the socket or wrench hits the car body when touching the negative terminal it will spark
Originally Posted by Serengettisandg
I believe you will need a 5/16" wrench or socket. The ECU memory should be all cleared up in 30-60 minutes, I don't really think it needs 12 hrs.
And if the end of the socket or wrench hits the car body when touching the negative terminal it will spark
And if the end of the socket or wrench hits the car body when touching the negative terminal it will spark




