first mod
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From: jax
first mod
My first mod is finally done! Took me two days to get it the way I want. I know I'm perpertrating making it look like a manual but I hated the oversized oem auto ****. Anyways Momo leather shift ****, Momo sport shift boot and custom trim ring. Waddya think?
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by speedeezx on 11/16/03 09:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
139786-MVC-024L.JPG
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by speedeezx on 11/16/03 09:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
139786-MVC-024L.JPG
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From: jax
Thread Starter
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From: jax
Re: first mod
last pic. Next mod - Gordgee's grounding kit, hard wire the radar detector and wait for the K&N typhoon to be released.
139788-MVC-026L.JPG
139788-MVC-026L.JPG
Re: first mod
Man, I am so disappointed you didn't go with GroundingGear™ first!
Just kidding, great job. The shifter looks good.[img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]
<font color=green>GG</font color=green>
Just kidding, great job. The shifter looks good.[img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]
<font color=green>GG</font color=green>
Re: first mod
that looks real good.. i've been thinking about doing that mod for a while, just haven't had the chance to do it.. where'd you get all the parts?
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From: jax
Re: first mod
The **** and the boot are from extremeredline.com, they were not the cheapest but I am happy with the business they conducted. The trim ring , are you ready for this, is a trim ring from a recessed light fixture. I know , I know , how cheesy can you get but I tried to get the trim ring from the front door speaker and guess what? You have to buy the whole door panel. No thanks, I was afraid to price it just for the trim piece and there was no guarantee it was going to work.
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Re: first mod
Looks great. i wouldnt mind doin that one myself. could you maybe give a few more details on how you accomplished this awesome mod
Daniel
5AT Coupe / DP / Willow / Aero / Premium / 3M Clear Bra
Daniel
5AT Coupe / DP / Willow / Aero / Premium / 3M Clear Bra
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From: jax
Re: first mod
I didn't forget about you guys, I'm trying to come up with a detailed description for you but It's a little hard given I knew what I wanted to do but it was pretty much free hand as you can imagine. Anyways I'll have it posted by tomorrow. Thanks for the props!
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From: Mishigan
Re: first mod
looks good man!
your second mod should be to hardwire your radar detector [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img] or at least to route the power so its not so in the way
<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake
your second mod should be to hardwire your radar detector [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img] or at least to route the power so its not so in the way
<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake
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From: jax
Re: first mod
After looking at the 350z thread I wish our mod was even close to being that easy, but unfortunately it's not. Maybe someone more resourceful can find an easier way? Either way this is a long post and is subject to whatever parts you use. My parts list consisted of the Momo auto leather shift ****, Momo "sport" boot which is the shortest boot they offer a trim ring from a 5" recessed light fixture found at your local hardware store and a dremel tool ( pretty much a necessity). Mine ring came painted in the silver finish although I'm little undecided regarding keeping this color or powdercoating.
Just so you guys know I'm by no means any kind of professional (as you can probably tell) but I did this out of the want to do something different. Before you start it I'd highly recommend resigning yourself to buying replacement part if your not happy with the results.
Hopefully I didn't forget any details and it's not too confusing but feel free to ask any questions. This turned out to be a bigger project than I thought so be ready and I'd love to hear about some results
Note: be sure to work with your car in either the neutral or drive position.
1. follow instructions for center console removal from DYI thread.
2. unclip all wiring harnesses so that you can fully handle the console piece
3. remove shift substructure ( the part that sits on the shift mechanism itself ) from center console. This is held on by 3 screws, and will also allow the removal of the P,R,N,D aluminum shift gate.
4. your now left with a console with a hole which is not symmetrically round. Here's the tough part- time to cut! You'll need to round out the hole. My measurement was 5 3/4" from front to back and 5 1/4" from side to side. PIC
Be sure to stay centered on the console and keep measuring the hole size with your trim ring as to not over cut the size that the trim ring will cover. My final result is a slightly oval shape which is noticeable from the trim ring fitment on the backside. PIC. The reason I needed to cut is to make room for the shift substructure and the boot that allows the trim ring to fit flush on the console. I free handed the cutting with a pair of flat faced wire snips which accounts for the rough finish. What you don't see won't hurt you. IMO.
5. now to modify the substructure. Your going to use all stock pieces. The shift substructure ( mentioned above )
will need to have the short lip on the left side dremeled ( that's what I used ) down flat with the entire substructure piece. PIC. This will allow the next piece to connect with minimal space between ( to save overall height ). You'll also need to drill out the screw holes on ht same piece again to minimize the height. Be sure not to overbore the screw holes because you still need to attach it to the modified P, R, N, D gate without your screws pulling through.
6. now to modify the P, R, N, D aluminum shift gate. Remove the decorative aluminum top with a small screw driver worked around the edge. This piece is held on by some pretty kick *** glue. Don't worry about scarring up
the plastic piece as it will be covered by the shift boot. Once you've removed the aluminum piece and you've stopped crying because there's no going back now, you'll need to grind or dremel the edge off what's left of your shift gate. Again I used a dremel, flipped the piece over ( this is the side with the screw holes ) and you'll see a small line that makes a smaller circle about 1/8th to 3/16th in from the edge. This will now be your cutting/ grinding template. Obviously you'll need all screw holes so don't go crazy taking the edge down past that line.
7. Your pieces are now done and you can start assembling. Slide your shift boot over the P, R, N, D gate and cut small holes in the boot to line up with the posts and screw holes. Slide your boot onto the gate and tuck and extra leather through the gate. PIC. Having a short boot helps eliminate allot of extra material. You can now attach the substructure with the 3 screws and what you should have is a boot wedged between the shift substructure and the shift gate (which you can no longer see). Rest this entire piece on your shift mechanism by lining up the two holding posts, run your shift shaft through the boot and be sure the MM shift gate is on the correct side.
8. replace your center console. Your new shift boot assembly should sit just below the console and not hinder the proper replacement of the console itself. Check to make sure you have a very slight cushion of room around the boot and between the console hole. A slight space is needed depending on the trim ring you use and you may want to check your fitting now before you reattach all the wiring harnesses.
9. remove your console again. Attach whatever shift **** your going to use. You may not need to re-remove the console depending on your shift **** and how it attaches to the boot( if at all). The Momo **** has set screws just below the threads. You have to set the **** first and then screw the boot on afterwards otherwise you cannot see the set screws to adjust and set the ****.
Also if your using the Momo **** I used one of the rubber inserts with the end cut off to help secure the **** from movement and also allow the lower placement. If you do not cut the end off your forced to place the **** higher on the shift shaft. So the **** is in place , you can shift and remove the key, this is good! To screw the boot onto the **** you'll need to rotate the entire substructure around the shift shaft. This takes a little finesse but once you get a hang it's fairly easy to maneuver around the shift mechanism and console edges. Once your all screwed tight, replace the whole boot set-up on the shift mechanism and keep your MM gate to the passenger side.
10. replace console reconnecting all wiring. You'll have one loose wire that illuminated the gear choice, I left mine alone so it sits inside my console. You should now have a manual look ( without the trim ring ) with the boot sitting close to the console so that you could not see down into the console. Again your console should clip back into it's original clips without much resistance. Check all shifting positions, auto and MM.
11. Finishing touch- the trim ring. Again mine came from a "Halo" brand recessed light 5" in size. Go ahead I'll take the whip now! I had to modify the front edge and the inner part of the ring to get a good flush fit. Your consoles bends slightly upwards towards the ash tray therefore the slight grinding of the front edge was necessary. The inner ring was removed ( again with a dremel ) and then wallowed the inside edge to open up the ring a smidge ( more room for the boot to come through ). It was then attached to the console with heavy duty 2 sided permanent tape run around the edges and doubled up in the middle to make up for the slight dome on the trim ring.
12. most of the grinding and wallowing and other colorful descriptions were done slowly with constant check for fit. I would recommend the same so that your adjustments can be made carefully and not to excess.
13. VIGO! Your done!
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by speedeezx on 11/21/03 06:06 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
142967-MVC-001L.JPG
Just so you guys know I'm by no means any kind of professional (as you can probably tell) but I did this out of the want to do something different. Before you start it I'd highly recommend resigning yourself to buying replacement part if your not happy with the results.
Hopefully I didn't forget any details and it's not too confusing but feel free to ask any questions. This turned out to be a bigger project than I thought so be ready and I'd love to hear about some results
Note: be sure to work with your car in either the neutral or drive position.
1. follow instructions for center console removal from DYI thread.
2. unclip all wiring harnesses so that you can fully handle the console piece
3. remove shift substructure ( the part that sits on the shift mechanism itself ) from center console. This is held on by 3 screws, and will also allow the removal of the P,R,N,D aluminum shift gate.
4. your now left with a console with a hole which is not symmetrically round. Here's the tough part- time to cut! You'll need to round out the hole. My measurement was 5 3/4" from front to back and 5 1/4" from side to side. PIC
Be sure to stay centered on the console and keep measuring the hole size with your trim ring as to not over cut the size that the trim ring will cover. My final result is a slightly oval shape which is noticeable from the trim ring fitment on the backside. PIC. The reason I needed to cut is to make room for the shift substructure and the boot that allows the trim ring to fit flush on the console. I free handed the cutting with a pair of flat faced wire snips which accounts for the rough finish. What you don't see won't hurt you. IMO.
5. now to modify the substructure. Your going to use all stock pieces. The shift substructure ( mentioned above )
will need to have the short lip on the left side dremeled ( that's what I used ) down flat with the entire substructure piece. PIC. This will allow the next piece to connect with minimal space between ( to save overall height ). You'll also need to drill out the screw holes on ht same piece again to minimize the height. Be sure not to overbore the screw holes because you still need to attach it to the modified P, R, N, D gate without your screws pulling through.
6. now to modify the P, R, N, D aluminum shift gate. Remove the decorative aluminum top with a small screw driver worked around the edge. This piece is held on by some pretty kick *** glue. Don't worry about scarring up
the plastic piece as it will be covered by the shift boot. Once you've removed the aluminum piece and you've stopped crying because there's no going back now, you'll need to grind or dremel the edge off what's left of your shift gate. Again I used a dremel, flipped the piece over ( this is the side with the screw holes ) and you'll see a small line that makes a smaller circle about 1/8th to 3/16th in from the edge. This will now be your cutting/ grinding template. Obviously you'll need all screw holes so don't go crazy taking the edge down past that line.
7. Your pieces are now done and you can start assembling. Slide your shift boot over the P, R, N, D gate and cut small holes in the boot to line up with the posts and screw holes. Slide your boot onto the gate and tuck and extra leather through the gate. PIC. Having a short boot helps eliminate allot of extra material. You can now attach the substructure with the 3 screws and what you should have is a boot wedged between the shift substructure and the shift gate (which you can no longer see). Rest this entire piece on your shift mechanism by lining up the two holding posts, run your shift shaft through the boot and be sure the MM shift gate is on the correct side.
8. replace your center console. Your new shift boot assembly should sit just below the console and not hinder the proper replacement of the console itself. Check to make sure you have a very slight cushion of room around the boot and between the console hole. A slight space is needed depending on the trim ring you use and you may want to check your fitting now before you reattach all the wiring harnesses.
9. remove your console again. Attach whatever shift **** your going to use. You may not need to re-remove the console depending on your shift **** and how it attaches to the boot( if at all). The Momo **** has set screws just below the threads. You have to set the **** first and then screw the boot on afterwards otherwise you cannot see the set screws to adjust and set the ****.
Also if your using the Momo **** I used one of the rubber inserts with the end cut off to help secure the **** from movement and also allow the lower placement. If you do not cut the end off your forced to place the **** higher on the shift shaft. So the **** is in place , you can shift and remove the key, this is good! To screw the boot onto the **** you'll need to rotate the entire substructure around the shift shaft. This takes a little finesse but once you get a hang it's fairly easy to maneuver around the shift mechanism and console edges. Once your all screwed tight, replace the whole boot set-up on the shift mechanism and keep your MM gate to the passenger side.
10. replace console reconnecting all wiring. You'll have one loose wire that illuminated the gear choice, I left mine alone so it sits inside my console. You should now have a manual look ( without the trim ring ) with the boot sitting close to the console so that you could not see down into the console. Again your console should clip back into it's original clips without much resistance. Check all shifting positions, auto and MM.
11. Finishing touch- the trim ring. Again mine came from a "Halo" brand recessed light 5" in size. Go ahead I'll take the whip now! I had to modify the front edge and the inner part of the ring to get a good flush fit. Your consoles bends slightly upwards towards the ash tray therefore the slight grinding of the front edge was necessary. The inner ring was removed ( again with a dremel ) and then wallowed the inside edge to open up the ring a smidge ( more room for the boot to come through ). It was then attached to the console with heavy duty 2 sided permanent tape run around the edges and doubled up in the middle to make up for the slight dome on the trim ring.
12. most of the grinding and wallowing and other colorful descriptions were done slowly with constant check for fit. I would recommend the same so that your adjustments can be made carefully and not to excess.
13. VIGO! Your done!
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by speedeezx on 11/21/03 06:06 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
142967-MVC-001L.JPG
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From: jax