Should I Get The Mrev2??? What Is It??
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,116
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From: long beach ,ca
Should I Get The Mrev2??? What Is It??
SORRY FELLAAS...NEVER KNEW ABOUT THIS WHAT DOES THIS DO ??IS IT LIKE A PLENUM?? HOW MUCH POWER DOES IT GIVE YOU?? JUST SAW IT RIGHT NOW http://www.g35parts.com/9083/osc/pro...roducts_id=364 ....I HAVE A 2004 COUPE 6MT...SHOULD I GET IT?? THANKS...
Former G35driver Vendor
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From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
The 298 "rev-up" motor makes 246wHP in 5th Gear (direct drive) on its 4th pull (lowest pull) highest was 248wHP @ 7,000RPM..
No it is not a marketing scheme.. How they achieve the extra HP was due to the design of the Plenum (AKA Intake Manifold)... The original VQ motor in the G35 had long runners giving the air more velocity (physics).. with more velocity the engine is able to burn more fuel + air (power) allowing more torque and higher HP at low RPMs - Explaining why the original VQ has more torque.. Now the new "Rev-Up" motor uses short fat runners in the intake manifold aka plenum.. this causes the motor to loose low end power (lower torque rating) but on the upside the motor breaths better at high RPM explaining why Infiniti upped the rpm to 7k instead of 6.5k.. if you dyno a regular VQ up to 7k you'll probably notice the power curve starts going down at its peak (6.5k)... To put it simple: Your engine is like a giant air pump.. it transfers heat and air into power.. the faster/more air you can get in & out the more HP you'll make.. Why is that? the more air you put in each cylinder the harder it'll push down on the piston when heat expands it (ignites)...
Infiniti also upgraded the Rods and added variable valve to the exhaust cam and i believe a different ECU is used. Why? the results were a lot smoother power curve (so it should = better acceleration)..
The new G35 engine uses TWO intakes.. it probably has butterfly valves or one short and one long runner in the intake manifold.. why? with its 298hp at 7,000 RPM the engine is already at peak efficiency.. the only way they're going to get more air in that thing is if they make the runners even bigger and by doing that sacrificing even MORE low end power (which is a no no)... to achieve 8,000 RPM @ 306HP they probably used one of the above methods.. by doing this they an have a short runner (or block of a portion of the runner) and by doing this it'll increase air velocity and help low end power.. but when the engine starts picking up RPMs they'll open up the runners allowing a bigger & fatter runner to supply enough air at 8,000 rpm to produce 306hp..
IMO if you can get 100hp per liter you've made one hell of a N/A motor.. now 306 out of a 3.5L v6... thats pretty impressive from a factory tuned fully warrantied luxury car...
Edit: the new SAE rating requires manufactures to dyno their motors with ALL accessories on them. as if they're actually in the vehicle.. so its more accurate but still does not include power loss caused by the torque convertor, clutch packs, etc.. (if auto), clutch + flywheel & trans (MT), drive shaft, rear gear box, axles, your big 20" rims, weight of the brakes, etc...
bored.. sorry bout the long response
- Eric
No it is not a marketing scheme.. How they achieve the extra HP was due to the design of the Plenum (AKA Intake Manifold)... The original VQ motor in the G35 had long runners giving the air more velocity (physics).. with more velocity the engine is able to burn more fuel + air (power) allowing more torque and higher HP at low RPMs - Explaining why the original VQ has more torque.. Now the new "Rev-Up" motor uses short fat runners in the intake manifold aka plenum.. this causes the motor to loose low end power (lower torque rating) but on the upside the motor breaths better at high RPM explaining why Infiniti upped the rpm to 7k instead of 6.5k.. if you dyno a regular VQ up to 7k you'll probably notice the power curve starts going down at its peak (6.5k)... To put it simple: Your engine is like a giant air pump.. it transfers heat and air into power.. the faster/more air you can get in & out the more HP you'll make.. Why is that? the more air you put in each cylinder the harder it'll push down on the piston when heat expands it (ignites)...
Infiniti also upgraded the Rods and added variable valve to the exhaust cam and i believe a different ECU is used. Why? the results were a lot smoother power curve (so it should = better acceleration)..
The new G35 engine uses TWO intakes.. it probably has butterfly valves or one short and one long runner in the intake manifold.. why? with its 298hp at 7,000 RPM the engine is already at peak efficiency.. the only way they're going to get more air in that thing is if they make the runners even bigger and by doing that sacrificing even MORE low end power (which is a no no)... to achieve 8,000 RPM @ 306HP they probably used one of the above methods.. by doing this they an have a short runner (or block of a portion of the runner) and by doing this it'll increase air velocity and help low end power.. but when the engine starts picking up RPMs they'll open up the runners allowing a bigger & fatter runner to supply enough air at 8,000 rpm to produce 306hp..
IMO if you can get 100hp per liter you've made one hell of a N/A motor.. now 306 out of a 3.5L v6... thats pretty impressive from a factory tuned fully warrantied luxury car...
Edit: the new SAE rating requires manufactures to dyno their motors with ALL accessories on them. as if they're actually in the vehicle.. so its more accurate but still does not include power loss caused by the torque convertor, clutch packs, etc.. (if auto), clutch + flywheel & trans (MT), drive shaft, rear gear box, axles, your big 20" rims, weight of the brakes, etc...
bored.. sorry bout the long response
- Eric
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
Start off getting the:
1. Motordyne 1/2" Spacer - Reason I say 1/2 instead of the 5/16 is that because of your runner length, etc.. (i dont want to go into details) is because you want your intake & exhaust combo to go together.. and its easyer to aim for the upper RPMS in our case here..
2. Stillen CAI w/JWT Cone Filter: IMO this is all personal preferrence but Tony and I both seen power loss from NISMO CAI aka AEM CAI and Injen CAI.. Stillen CAI uses a cold air box and keeps the filter in a enclosed area to keep dirt from comming in.. reason i use JWT is because i like their filter design.. you can also get a z-tube if you want the motor to be even louder..
3. HKS Hi-Power Ti looks badass but if you want true performance go for IMS Exhaust.. their exhaust diameter is the most reasonable and it sounds pretty good as well.. if anyone still remembers what they learn in physics class.. (
quick example: get 3 straws.. 1 regular one, 1 boba (bigger) straw, 1 toilet paper roll
The regular straw will represent the stock exhaust.. you can breath through it just fine but when you power walk you'll be out of breath and pass out..
the boba (bigger straw) will be our IMS exhaust.. breath through it very well and you can power walk or even run just fine
Toilet paper roll will be our giant 3" rocket pipes... you're about to fall over breathing normally.. but if you power walk or run it you'll be yeah u get the point
i know its a bad example but its just a quick one.. this applies to both intake and exhaust.. this is why a 3" pipe wont work better then a 2.5" pipe.. no velocity no go... the whole point of an intake and exhaust system is to get air in and out of the motor ASAP at a specific range of RPM.. now just apply some sense to this.. you have a 3.5Liter engine.. if u break it down thats 1.75 Liter per bank.. do you really need a 3" exhaust for a 1.75 liter... -__- some of you guys laugh at 1.8liter civics with 3" exhausts but you yourself run a 3" exhaust on 1.75 liter (actually you run 2 lol)
anyways.. save yourself the money on the pully and high flow cats and go buy a ECU and tune it after the intake and exhaust mod =)
- Eric
1. Motordyne 1/2" Spacer - Reason I say 1/2 instead of the 5/16 is that because of your runner length, etc.. (i dont want to go into details) is because you want your intake & exhaust combo to go together.. and its easyer to aim for the upper RPMS in our case here..
2. Stillen CAI w/JWT Cone Filter: IMO this is all personal preferrence but Tony and I both seen power loss from NISMO CAI aka AEM CAI and Injen CAI.. Stillen CAI uses a cold air box and keeps the filter in a enclosed area to keep dirt from comming in.. reason i use JWT is because i like their filter design.. you can also get a z-tube if you want the motor to be even louder..
3. HKS Hi-Power Ti looks badass but if you want true performance go for IMS Exhaust.. their exhaust diameter is the most reasonable and it sounds pretty good as well.. if anyone still remembers what they learn in physics class.. (
quick example: get 3 straws.. 1 regular one, 1 boba (bigger) straw, 1 toilet paper roll
The regular straw will represent the stock exhaust.. you can breath through it just fine but when you power walk you'll be out of breath and pass out..
the boba (bigger straw) will be our IMS exhaust.. breath through it very well and you can power walk or even run just fine
Toilet paper roll will be our giant 3" rocket pipes... you're about to fall over breathing normally.. but if you power walk or run it you'll be yeah u get the point
i know its a bad example but its just a quick one.. this applies to both intake and exhaust.. this is why a 3" pipe wont work better then a 2.5" pipe.. no velocity no go... the whole point of an intake and exhaust system is to get air in and out of the motor ASAP at a specific range of RPM.. now just apply some sense to this.. you have a 3.5Liter engine.. if u break it down thats 1.75 Liter per bank.. do you really need a 3" exhaust for a 1.75 liter... -__- some of you guys laugh at 1.8liter civics with 3" exhausts but you yourself run a 3" exhaust on 1.75 liter (actually you run 2 lol)
anyways.. save yourself the money on the pully and high flow cats and go buy a ECU and tune it after the intake and exhaust mod =)
- Eric
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...+runner+length
Originally Posted by noooorb
it's only for cars with the revup(name?) engines, which came only in 05-06 G's.
yeah just get the 1/2 or 5/16 MD Spacer
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,116
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From: long beach ,ca
so i should get the 1/2 spacer for my 04 coupe 6mt??...i was planning to get the new crawford plenum...tell me what you think?? new plenum or new 1/2 spacer??
Former G35driver Vendor
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From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
Originally Posted by DAGALEAG35
so i should get the 1/2 spacer for my 04 coupe 6mt??...i was planning to get the new crawford plenum...tell me what you think?? new plenum or new 1/2 spacer??
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 13,068
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From: Southern Cali --> 818
I think you need alot more research; I know as a fact that I like knowing what I add to my car, how it works, and what it does. I suggest you search these topics up before you decide; there's an enormous amount of info on these products.
But in the end, in general, you will probably want to tune the car if you decide to get the MREV2 on a Non-Revup. Why? Search
Goodluck!
.
But in the end, in general, you will probably want to tune the car if you decide to get the MREV2 on a Non-Revup. Why? Search

Goodluck!
.
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