Automatic G35's lose 20% of the horsepower through the drivetrain correct?
Manuals lose 15% correct?

With that said check out this graph of an Automatic G35 Coupe. The Injen Intake gives the G35 Coupe 239 RWHP.
How can you make Motor Trend's 2003 Car of the Year any better? Mix one part Infiniti G35 with one part Injen CAI, and you've got your answer. Offering impressive horsepower and torque gains across the board, the Injen Cold Air Intake (model #1990) for the Infiniti G35 is one fun toy you'd be crazy to do without.

The Injen Technology intake is a high-performance, dyno-proven system made of CNC mandrel bent 6061 T-6 aluminum alloy. Each intake is carefully engineered for perfect fitment, superior performance, and optimum throttle response.



Max Power HP Stock: 226.8

Max Power HP CAI: 239.4

---Total Gain: +12.6 HP---

Max Power Torque Stock: 220.3

Max Power Torque CAI: 228.6

---Total Gain: +8.3 ft-lb---

Peak HP Stock: 225.1

Peak HP CAI: 239.3

---Total Gain: +14.2 HP---

Peak Torque Stock: 186.0

Peak Torque CAI: 197.6

---Total Gain: +11.6 ft-lb---



RD1990Regular price: $360.00Sale price: $279.00

An automatic G35 Coupe will lose 20% of the horsepower through the drivetrain...300 Horsepower - 20% loss = 240 RWHP...As you can see having 300 Horsepower and losing 20% of it nearly perfectly matches the proclaimed gains of the Injen Intake .

http://www.i-m-racing.com/incolairing3.html

 

I dunno, I love the VQ35DE engine, also knowing that it a NA engine. 20HP is probably one of the highest HP upgrade ratings I've seen for a V6 NA engine (including the NSX engine). I also have worked in tuning shops for quite some time before, but you have to be careful what the manufactures' claim. I've seen manufactures tweak their DYNOs to make their products look awesome and/or they run some little tricks on the enviroment to make the car run stronger. (Plus this is probably after an hour worth of dyno runs)
Injen is an excellent intake manufacturing company but be careful on what manufactures claim on THEIR dynos.

Once I change my intake system on my car, I will dyno the car for you guys with different intake systems. Same going with exhaust and other items that claims HP on the car.

 

Hey dude, That's exactly what we need. Thanks for posting and please keep us abreast of your mods and dynos.
These mods are slow to arrive and everyone's gettin' antsy to do stuff to their cars. I hope there will be a choise of Intakes and exhausts available soon (hopefully with a Nissan endorsed chip) to play with and compare.
Keep in touch.....[img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]
L8r dude.

<font color=red>Gsedanman</font color=red>

 

In my experience with CAI's the gains are only 2% at the worst and 6% being best. Nissan's are not what I have worked with but I doubt they are much different. I do hope you post the results of your testing, it will really sort out the issue.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Premium/Winter/Aero
69 Chevelle BB/4.11's

 

Thanks to all the guys willing to mod & dyno! we need some solid number.. I need some solid numbers ! hehe

..pestilence..

 

that's not bad. can you actually feel that gain while driving?

'03 G35 Sedan: ivory/aero body/sport/sunroof
Warning: Objects in mirror are FASTER than they appear

 

I'll never go cold air again. I lost low end power. My car labored big time off of the line. My pop charger settled that issue.

With that said, the Injen intake is a little shorter than the AEM (which is what I had). Maybe that helps a bit.

 

where are you located jnkirk1974...when i had a popcharger in my car it would heatsoak and make me loose major hp.

 

I'm in the Dallas area. I would be shocked if I lost horsepower. However, my AEM REALLY made me lose horsepower, so maybe I'm just losing LESS horsepower with the popcharger

With the pop charger, you only suck in some heat when you are idling. When you start to move, heat shouldn't be an issue.

Doug at Crawford told me to make the switch to the pop charger from the cold air intake.

Here are some notes from when I spoke with him on the phone:

1) He's not a fan of most cold air instakes (especially the ones that go way down into the wheel well). He said you're almost guaranteed to loss power with them. These are the ones designed like the Nismo cold air intake.

2) Here's the story on the Pop Charger: Will it suck in hot engine air? The answer is "yes", BUT only when you are idling. And even at that, it will not suck in THAT much engine air. He said all of his guys at the shop (including himself) run the Pop Charger and have plenty of dynos to support it's power gains.

3) The stock box is great to use with the z-tube all the way up to around 270RWHP. At that point, the stock box starts to lose it's effectiveness because your engine will start to require more air than it's getting. So the point is, if you plan on staying stock for the most part (except for maybe an exhaust mod or so), the stock box is perfect. If you plan on getting pretty radical (cams, headers, cats, exhaust, plenum, etc) with your modding and getting your HP way up there, the Pop Charger is where you need to be.

 

By the way, you have some great mods going. How's the power?

 

Those are just manufacturer claimed numbers, not his own dynos if I read it right. I still say that the Z tube and K&N drop in work best.

Just noticed that this thread is over 2 years old. Nevermind.

 

The information from Doug came from several (of his own) dynos. He said for this reason, everyone at Crawford Z uses the Pop Charger.

 

I was referring to the original post. It's interesting that Doug likes the pop charger though.

 

Gotcha