While at the Dyno Day this last weekend I ran into a guy, Steve, who had an ATI Procharger. I asked him what SW he was using to piggy back off of his stock ECU and he answered split second. I went to their web site and found that they don't make anything specifically for our cars, but figured Steve must have worked something custom out with them.

While on their FAQ page, I stumbled across 2 things that may be of interest to some of you... They were:

1. Is it OK to put a cone filter on the end on the MAF sensor?
It is not recommended. The MAF sensor will make a far more accurate measurement of air flow if there is a run of tubing or enclosed air box upstream of the sensor. This is because there is a more orderly and predictable flow pattern through the sensor. It is also recommended that every effort be made to preserve a cold air intake.

I found this interesting because (if I'm not mistaken) both the ATI Procharger unit and the Vortec unit use a "cone filter". I was wondering why?

2. What is the best Fuel Mixture for making power?
To this day engine tuners still cannot agree on which air/fuel mixture is the best. We believe to achieve max power without damaging the engine, the desired air/fuel mixture would be around 13.2:1 or the first blue led on the ARM1 display. Forced induction motors should be run at a more rich setting for safety. We recommend mixtures between 12.0:1 and 12.5:1.



300bhp??? We'll see... 5-22-2004

 

neato....

keep in mind, the MAF is a ways away from the lil conical intake filter...... the air has ample time to funnel thru the tunnel-shaped tubing (if it really matters) prior to MAF readings....

12.5 to 1 is ***** on what i have been told (and believe me, i have been told ALOT in the past month....lol)

i have the split second piggie for the vortech kit, as do all other vortech owners...... it comes pre-set with ignition tables and fuel tables, (and user on/off settings of some value....)

i bought the SS software so i can plug into a laptop and view all the settings, (even though i am getting custom mapping done this week)... the software comes on a CD... (pm me)

-eS

ps- grubbs now sells the SS box thru their aftermarket online store, under the g35 subsection i might add....

 

The guy that tuned my car also said A/F should be 12.8 to 1 for N/A and 11.8 to 12.2 for F/I ....I trust what he says...been at it for 25 years and all the racers in town go to him .Going back to do a little more tuning after the torque converter install

Couldnt afford it when young...gonna play when Im old

 

for the best power you run right to the ragged edge of detonation.

for good safe power you guys are right on at around 13:1 NA motor.. But to get the most power on a given day, leaner is better....right up to the ragged edge of detonation. Once you hit that, your knock sensor kicks in and retards your power. So if you can predict the weather/atmospheric conditions, you couldrun right up to and past stoich (14.7:1), as long as you aren't knocking

All the extra fuel at 13:1 does is cool the cylinders, actually reducing power to a certain extent to extend the life of your engine. But since it is such a small amount to lose (around 1% or 3-5 hp) and the rewards are so great (no detonation, manageable cylinder temperatures) tuners and smart owners will run the richer mixture.

So for power in a NA motor, leaner is better as long as you keep the above dangers in mind and are comfortable with how close to the edge you are

Better Life thru Chemistry
Black on Black 03.5 Sedan 6MT - Goodyear F1 GS-D3's 225/55/17, Custom Intake Tube, HyperGround Kit, Magnaflow resonator.