hi all,

i have a 2003 G35 Sedan. i've looked all over the forum for a write-up on radiator installation but to no avail.

can someone point me in the right direction? i've taken out my fan clutch before.

thanks in advance.





if this is posted in the wrong section, please move to proper section. ty

 

yup looking for this too ...asap

 

The procedure shown below is for a G coupe. I think a sedan removal & install will be the same. I'm writing this from memory, so if anyone spots anything I missed, please post it up

** If you are using the stock air intake, you will likely have to remove all or at least part of it to service the radiator. If you have an aftermarket intake, you can probably get away with only removing the filter. **

UNINSTALL EXISTING RADIATOR
- Let engine cool.
- Jack up front end of car and put on jack stands.
- Remove undertray.
- Remove radiator cap carefully - coolant can still be warm/hot even if the engine seems cool.
- Unbolt and remove radiator coolant overflow tank & hose that connects it to the radiator.
- Place large pan under car to catch coolant.
- Loosen clamp that secures the LOWER radiator hose to the radiator.
- Disconnect lower radiator hose / open radiator drain plug allowing coolant in the radiator and part of the engine block to drain out.
- The drain down will take a few minutes.
- If you drive a 5AT, loosen the clamps and disconnect the two transmission cooler lines. Tape up the ends and point the lines upward so no additional fluid will drain out.
- Disconnect the harnesses attached to the cooling fans.
- Remove the plastic "pins" that hold the top portion of the radiator in place.
- Loosen clamp that secures the UPPER (passenger side) radiator hose and disconnect hose. There may still be coolant in this hose.
- Unbolt cooling fan assembly from the radiator. There are two bolts total, one at each end along the top of the radiator.
- Unbolt AC condenser from the radiator. There are two bolts total, one each at end along the top of the radiator, that are accessed through holes in the core support.
- Pull cooling fans out of engine bay. Be careful not to damage the AC lines on the driver side.
- Lift up the AC condenser slightly so you can get the radiator out of the OEM mounting holes. Pull the radiator out of the engine bay - the AC condenser remains in place.

INSTALL NEW RADIATOR
- Make sure all drain plugs, if any, are closed on the new radiator.
- Remove the rubber footings/grommets from the old radiator and put them on the new radiator.
- Install the radiator in the original location. Make sure the radiator seats fully in the OEM mounting holes. You have to lift up the AC condenser to slide it into the notches at the bottom of the radiator (this will make sense when you do it). Bolt the radiator and condenser back together using the holes in the core support.
- Reinstall the plastic "pins" that secure the top portion of the radiator.
- Install the cooling fans and secure them to the radiator with the OEM bolts.
- Reconnect the lower radiator hose and make sure the clamp seats properly.
- Reconnect the wire harnesses for the cooling fans.
- If you drive a 5AT and have a compatible radiator, reconnect the transmission oil lines to the proper ports on the new radiator. If your radiator does not have a built-in tranny cooler, you will need to install a standalone cooler.
- Reconnect the upper radiator hose and make sure the clamp seats properly.
- Reconnect the radiator coolant overflow tank and secure it with the OEM clamps & bolt.
- Reinstall the radiator cap (or just put it to the side until you refill coolant system).
- Double check to make sure all hoses are installed correctly and securely.
- Reinstall undertray.
- Remove jackstands and lower car back to the ground.

At this point you will need to refill the coolant system. There is a procedure in the Cooling System section of the factory service manual, a DIY on this site, and a DIY video by 'bythebay'. I followed the method in the FSM to get coolant back into the system, then used a Lisle bleeder funnel to get the rest of the air out of the system. Keep an eye out for leaks!!!

 

thanks...i got the radiator out....now im looking for a good price on a new one. I was thinking of the top part being aluminum instead of plastic or do i have no choice?

 

koyo, mishimoto, arc, pwr, etc. all make metal radiators. just search around online or on this site.

 

for an all metal radiator you might want to increase the capacity...but, you need an ATF cooler. If you don't live in a cold climate though, you don't have to worry about the stock ATF cooler which actually helps the fluid get warm faster and stay cooler.

 

thanks again.

 

Where can I buy new upper radiator rubber mounts? Does anyone have a picture of the correct rubber mounts to use?

 

stealership,,oh i mean dealership. prob a couple of bucks. they will have it in stock for you to look at.

 

Thanks bought them today. No heat after I re-installed the radiator.

 

no heat = air bubble.

 

Yup, the heat is coming back. I've been bleeding it and will bleed it again after I get home from work.

The FSM says the coolant capacity is a little over 9 qts., I only put about 4 in before spilling from the bleeding screw.

 

man i wish this had pictures

 

the engine block holds over half of the coolant so 4 qts is about right for the radiator swap

 

It's not too hard of a job. The hardest part is bolting the condenser back onto the radiator and squeezing the radiator into the mounting holes.