i heard some guys blew up the engine when they goes FI route (turbo/super charger).do anybody know what exact part of the engine that goes bad? piston,rod,head,block?

 

i have witnessed it first hand on the road, and seem it when it was taken apart.

off the side of the road, we picked up 2 rods, a connecting rod (whole), parts of another connecting rod, pieces of the block, pieces of a piston, 2 piston rings, and 2 valves.

when we got home, we found 6 holes in the block, a rod stickin halfway through the block, another rod, somemore piston rings, and a bunch of pieces of the block.

when we took it to the shop, the only thing that could be salvage able was the crankshaft. everything else was destroyed.

ill post a few pics later for you, if you want. but i got to run now.

Daniel

03.5 5AT DP Coupe
Ground Kit / Z – Tube / Shock Sensor / 5% Tint - 30% Windshield
Clear Corners / L.E.D. Hood Lights / KPTech VDC Memory
KPTech OEM Remote Window Up / Invidia Exhaust

 

everything that you mentioned went bad in this case.

Daniel

03.5 5AT DP Coupe
Ground Kit / Z – Tube / Shock Sensor / 5% Tint - 30% Windshield
Clear Corners / L.E.D. Hood Lights / KPTech VDC Memory
KPTech OEM Remote Window Up / Invidia Exhaust

 

sound to me like the pistons and rods are the weakest parts in the vq35 engine which gives first.anybody want to take a shot at this?

 

it was said that it was cause by a rod failure due to too much power.

Daniel

03.5 5AT DP Coupe
Ground Kit / Z – Tube / Shock Sensor / 5% Tint - 30% Windshield
Clear Corners / L.E.D. Hood Lights / KPTech VDC Memory
KPTech OEM Remote Window Up / Invidia Exhaust

 

how much was "too much"? hp/torque/boost [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

 

400 lb-ft. torque and 396 hp in the case he's describing with a poorly tuned (or not tuned at all) Greddy TT kit.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

Mine broke the rod clean in half just underneath the piston. It put a small hole in the side of the block, but everything was salvagable. I also had a greddy tt. The rods are the weakest link.

 

so by changing to better pistons & rods,we can hold on to those ponies.correct?

 

yes. with new rods and pistons you will be able to hold more power. you will also need to lower the compression a little bit. stock compression is 10.3:1, i would recommend around 9.1:1 or if you want more boost got 8.5:1.

Daniel

03.5 5AT DP Coupe
Ground Kit / Z – Tube / Shock Sensor / 5% Tint - 30% Windshield
Clear Corners / L.E.D. Hood Lights / KPTech VDC Memory
KPTech OEM Remote Window Up / Invidia Exhaust

 

what else is there to replace other than pistons & rods? to prevent from blowing up the engine at 400-500 hp range.

did the search.they're selling the piston kit but the rods nowhere to be found.so is the torque converter.anybody know where to buy them?

what kind of material are those rods made of? i can make them if i know enough infos.like size,shape,finish,hardness...
thanks.

 

There was a group buy on Arias pistons and pauter forged rods combo on 'my350z.com'. I think it was $1500 for everthing. The group buy is over. But PM 'gq_626' over there, I think he can still get a good deal.


http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...elected=551133

 

thanks daniel...like mooser said,you know **** [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

 

are you planning on going FI? If so, which route..turbo or supercharger. I notice there are more and more choices coming out. If I were to go turbo, I'd either go Power Enterprise or wait for the APS. APS has some cool videos of their turbo Z btw. If I were to go supercharger, I would go Vortech or the new HKS. all my opinions of course I installed a ATI procharger on a friends camaro, and I was not impressed with the build quality.

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...elected=551133

 

Bullet proofing the longblock, known so far if you got the time and money:

a) forged billet rods
b) forged pistons (lower CR)
c) main and head studs
d) closeing the deck via Darton, AEBS or equivalent T-sleeves.
e) quality head gaskets
f) head work (magnitude really optional)
g) definately need a stronger clutch...
etc. etc etc.

Note this can easily cost > $10k , not includeing the FI components selected.

At lower boost levels <8 psi , none or all of the above may not be necessary. With these mods, You should be able to handle more power than the OEM driveline can reliably take. At least thats how I am justifying my expenses , my long block is currently in surgery for these upgrades.

Now if you want to raise the rev limter towards 8k rpm you really need crank woirk and better valve train components.