Gurgen,

I feel bad about what happened to your set-up, and I'm sorry to read about it. If you don't mind my asking, what the hill is going on over there? I didn't see anything about your new FI installation for days and days, and now I understand you've not only cracked manifold(s), but also blown the seals right out of your new turbo(s). How can that be so? Did you get an acute case of boost fever, bad luck, or what? Please tell us what you've learned from this experience, so we might be able to avoid similar problems, OK?

Thank you.

'03 G35s 5AT, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03
Eibach Springs/Sways, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen Intake & SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust

 

GGGGG

No problem...glad to help

Yes I will be keeping the turbo kit for my built engine. BTW, just got the news that the pistons have actually shipped and will be here tuesday. Rods are to follow in 3-4 weeks..

And yes, Eric is going to be building the new engine... in fact he has a core and I will be swapping out my engine with a rebuild one in one shot, and shipping mine back to Eric as a new core. Poor guy... whoever gets my core in his car ... LOL Kidding of course

 

No I was not overenthusiastic with the boost... in fac the first time i noticed this is after putting on test pipes... it never crossed my mind before to free-rev the engine and get out and check the exhaust gases..

It can be a lot of things... At first, I will take off the test pipes and look for burn off residues... The anount of oil that was found in the charge tube was present since the very beginning... I was told that this is normal. The PCV system is now connected directly to both of the intake tubed (upstream of the compressor), so getting a little oil from there is normal (from what I have been told by very experienced people). What is your take on it, guys?

Now... the more important question... I was told by Doug of Crawford Z Car that an oil catch can can seriosuly cost me horsepower... I do not understand how that would be the case. Any explanations?

 

I just do not see how the bearings can fail this quickly, especially on a turbo of this high a quality. Of course, it is entirely possible.

I always do a cooldown period of 3 minutes, now that I have my turbo timer... Before I installed the turbo timer, however, I did always take it very very easy the last few minutes/miles of travel to my destination and let the car idle for at least a minute before shutting it off....

Also, I was told that a leaking turbo will be smoking all the time, especially when in boost, but I also follow the logic explained here, wrt the vacuum created/intake side as the source of the oil. However, I do not lose that much oil at all... probably no more than 1/4 quart every 1000 miles or so...

My plan....
- Inspect the exhaust side (remove the test pipes) and possibly replace with stock pipes...
- possibly install a catch can between the PCV system and both intake tubes and see if any oil accumulates....(would love input here on the power loss issue, thanks a bunch)
- Design a test procedure for ruling in/out the intake side turbo leak...
- Look at the oil pressure...

 

JDove... that's interesting... In fact I'd be happy if this was the case... as I am tearing down the engine in the next few months anyway... Thanks for the info...

 

Ckwik

Mokoto did check the shaft play ... and he said it was good.... I doubt that the bearings went that fast..

Also, I am using 15w50 synthetic motor oil, which is as thick as they come... As for oil pressure, here is waht I was told by PE USA: That hte fitting they use already have substantially smaller holes that would effectively lower oil feed, as the ball bearing turbos require very little oil compared to sleeve type?

Any truth to this IYO?

Gurgen

 

Gurgen, I know you put a ton of research and effort into that project. I'm sorry about your bad luck. Please let us know when you ID the source of the problem.

Now I read you're onto another project. Aside from the smoke problem, did the PE system not provide what you expected from it? How did you decide to abandon the PE system so quickly, after all the research/investment you did on the front-end? What's next, and what are your goals with the new set up? Please advise.

Wait... I just read in another thread you were not serious about a new project (single, under-sized turbo). Never mind.

'03 G35s 5AT, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03
Eibach Springs/Sways, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen Intake & SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by bullseye on 09/05/04 07:26 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Yea Gurgen it sucks to hear this stuff, i was so excited with all of your good news about the car and the #'s you were pulling out of it, i wonder if this kit is still great quality! I hope you get everything fixed soon and that its nothing major, if you have the $ for the pistons and rods i would say def. do it to run everything safe so you wont have anymore problems, also it might save you money int he long run without really messing up the engine such as blowing it god forbid. Anyway keep us updated, and from what im reading about maintenance and everything that you have to do with your car and everything, i dont think i could ever go turbo!

I mean i want to SOOO badly its not even funny, but i think i would just blow my engine and mess it up so bad from the way i drive, i mean im not stupid but yes i like to do a few runs frequently and enjoy the power of my car but witht he cool down and turbo's and manifold or whatever heating up and oil burning fast i dont know if i could keep up with all of this especially since im not so mechanically inclined and wouldnt know whats wrong with my engine when something minor would start and then just mess everything up. I still need to do a lot more research, theres a lot involved with it thx again.
Martin


Martin
2003.5 BS G35
Nismo Aero/Sport Package
0-60 5.4 - 1/4 Mile 14.16 *GTech* and on 19's!!

 

Bullseye

Yeah I wa joking about that... couldn't resist doing that to Clint, hehe

 

Gurgen, I used to have a 91 300zxTT. It developed a similar problem to what you described. My car would also start to smoke just a little if I turned it on and let it idle for say... about 25 to 30 min. It would smoke much more after I drove it then came to a stop. I my case it was a leaking seal on one of the turbos. The good thing in my case was that with the dual exhauset used on the TTZ I could watch the exhause and see what side started smoking the worse. Then I changed out that turbo and all was good. I would think that you have the same problem. What would happen if you let your car idle for 30 min. or so?

"Dont start none, Wont be none"

 

John

I never let it idle for that long, but if it does smoke, it does so for only a few seconds and stops, and only after I rev it in idle (and rarely after a run).

Gurgen

 

Im thinking its a turbo seal. I hope get this resolved quickly and for not too much $$$.

"Dont start none, Wont be none"

 

This makes me hark back to a by-gone era when I drove a 1979 Turbocharged 2.3L Ford Rustang. (This was long before quality was job 1.) A turbo seal let loose all at once as I entered a busy highway, causing a huge, dense, billowing cloud of bluish-white smoke to erupt from my tailpipe. I pulled over to the side and shut down at once. It's no small wonder there were no accidents, as the cloud of burnt oil hung on the road like a fog bank for several minutes before it dissipated.

A nearby Ford dealer replaced the turbo at my expense, as it was out of warranty, for $400. Thank goodness there was no collateral damage to the engine.

'03 G35s 5AT, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03
Eibach Springs/Sways, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen Intake & SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust

 

I don't think a 15W-50 is too good for a VQ's internals. The higher viscosity may be OK for the turbo bearings, but the engine tolerances are pretty tight for lube that thick. Hopefully it is the compressor seals, but sure sounds like worn valve guides/seals to me. Since the motor is being re-built anyway, not a big deal to replace them.

 

Karl

At this point, I am really hoping that it is the engine... Also, the higher viscosity oil has been used for only the last 1000 miles or so, do you think it could do damage that quickly, if it is in fact did?

I still do not know of a concrete procedure that would rule in/out the problem.

Gurgen