Row- Did you try the MAF swap out? Any change?

 

Yup, actually just got back from the garage doing it and exactly the same results, so its def. not the MAF sensor. Tomorrow I'm going to try swapping the throttle body, I'm so glad my mom drives a murano haha

 

I will post for sure after I do this, but once again I think I have figured out my issue.

I thought for SURE this problem was a knock sensor to begin with, but after I replaced the knock sensor the problem still exists. I still don't have a CEL on, however I checked the codes again tonight and it has thrown another P0327 Circuit Low Input diagnostic trouble, so now I know its the knock sensor harness. After doing some more research there have been several people that have got this code, had the same problems, and it ended up being the sensor harness. In most cases the individual has had the tranny removed, and the dealer pinched the wire between the tranny bell housing and engine block. I had my tranny removed about 3 weeks before this started happening.

Not really looking forward to taking the manifold, fuel rails, and everything else off AGAIN, but thats the task at hand for tonight. I'm going to try and get the harness today and get this done tonight. If I'm able to, I'll report back tomorrow on the results.

 

Well, I stopped by autozone and THIS time I was able to read a code (last time i reset my ecu the night before so that's prob why nothing showed) and low and behold this time its P0327 - knock sensor and/or harness. Here's the best part, about 2 years ago I had my tranny removed and a lightweight flywheel and new clutch installed, so I will literally **** myself if the harness is pinched and finally wore through. I'm picking up a new knock sensor tomorrow and will just make a new harness out of some 16gauge wire laying around from my wire tuck, insulate it with some thermal wrap cloth and be done with this ****. I'll post the results and pics as soon as I find some time to pull the mother apart.

 

Problem Solved!

It was a pain in the ***, but replaced the knock sensor harness and no more lag! I drove the car for over an hour, and never lost any pop! For anyone that needs to replace this harness, you can use the harness from the 350Z, its cheaper and is the same harness.

 

Great!

Ellis, do you know what the part number for just the harness is and how much it was.

 

Row- The part # is 24079-CD000. Nissan sells the part for 81$ No dealerships carry that part in stock, other then one location in GA according the several different dealerships here in Indy. I had them overnight mine, was an extra 10$. Or if you are in no hurry, you can order the harness at the link below for even cheaper, 61$.

The new harness is slightly shorter then the old one, which I prefer for this reason. The back end of the stock harness that runs out the back of the engine block plugs into the main ECU harness which is not visible. You can get to it from the top, but you can only feel it, that and the plug is on a metal clip, which is almost impossible to get a flat head in to un clip. The new harness wont reach all the way back to to the metal tab, so you are able to just plug it in to the main ECU harness without much slack, and its visible! God willing I never have to replace this again, but if I were, I can get to it much easier now.

On the new harness you only really need the knock sensor harness but the only way to get it is with the injector harnesses ( tapped to the entire injector harness, but not connected ) but since you're already paying for it, might as well swap it all out. Thats what I did, didn't take any extra time really. Here's the link

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3189

 

Great info, I just got the same code P0327 and I'm gonna check mine. Just some Qs:

1, did you ask the dealer to replace the harness for you, since apparently they caused this issue?
2, did you pull out the section that got caught between the tranny and engine block? Did it leave any gap between the tranny and engine block?
3, any other parts need to be removed, besides the manifold and fuel rails, in order to replace the harness?

Thanks!

 

ray1370-

1. My harness was not pinched, not to say the dealer didn't pinch it then un pinch it, but regardless it wasn't pinched when I replaced it. That and the dealership that pulled the tranny out of my car was in Omaha, NE, and Im in Indianapolis, IN....so more trouble then its worth to try and prove that.

2. Again, mine was not pinched. The guy that originally had this problem, that did have his pinched, did have it removed.

3. Manifold, intake, all hoses, etc. You can actually keep the fuel rails on, just take out the 4 bolts that hold it in so you can get to the bolts to take off the "fuel rail block?" Its the small block that connects the cylinder banks that the fuel rail sits on, you can keep the injectors and all in and still get to those bolts.

 

^ thanks for sharing the information, it really helps me a lot. In my case I did have my tranny replaced by the dealership 2 yrs ago, it still drives fine, I was actually checking the codes for my high idle and found this. I think I'll try asking the dealership about this first and see if they would be able to fix it, if not I'll just fix it myself. Thanks again for the great find.

 

thanks a lot for the link, my throttle response has gotten embarrassing...definitely time to fix this...freaking search paying off yet again

 

I had the same problem admit wasn't throwing a code all I did was change my plugs and it runs good now

 

About to attack the K.S but just wondering, Is it a MUST to use a torque wrench ? or did you guys do it without one ?

Also, Do i need to buy new gaskets ?

Many Thanks,

 

Yes you do need a torque wrench, and besides the knock sensor bolt, you also have fuel rail, intake manifold and plenum that need to be torqued to the right spec, which is very crucial so you don't run into intake issues later.

It's good to use new gaskets, though, I cleaned and reused mine.