Electric fan install help
#1
11-14-2010, 10:42 PM
Electric fan install help
I just recently bought an FI kit that cannot be installed without removal of the Mechanical fan the the early 2003 model sedans have. I searched google and g35driver for what to do about efan installs but only found websites for parts. I have no idea how to do the wiring for the install so if anyone can help I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
11-14-2010, 10:58 PM
#6
11-15-2010, 02:31 AM
If you can fit a coupe or later sedan G35 dual fan housing I'd do that. (for costs sake and less manufacturing needed)
If you go to the dealership ask them for a price quote for the fan assembly and fan motors blades, etc... Make sure it has everything.
(this is the best setup as the fans won't sit on the radiator core)
This is providing you have space to install the efans with the fan assembly.
You will then need a fan controller.
I used part# 226204 From Advanced Auto Parts (Hayden Electronic Fan Controller).
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP2061A____
How it works:
You have the following cables:
Red (Power, you get this from the battery)
Black (Ground, you can get it from the battery or from a nearby ground)
Yellow (Ignition On signal.. So the fans kick on when the car is on, or you can connect it to the red cable and have it on whenever the temperature reaches its target even with the car off this is how I have it)
Green (A/C On.. this is optional I cut the cable off)
Orange (Positive for fan #1)
Blue (Positive for fan #2)
(after I turn off the car if I was driving in the city the fans may stay on for 30 seconds max!)
The controller also comes with a push in probe in which you push in the probe in between the fins (careful not to injure the radiator when doing so)
The probe is essentially a thermometer.
This controller comes with a small selector which you rotate to find your desired temperature to engage the fans on.
The fans will turn off 20 degree's from when you turn them on.
So if they kick on at 190, they will turn off at 170.
If you cannot fit the fan assembly them it gets a bit more expensive. (not by much)
You will need to buy fans from Auto Zone or Advanced auto parts or wherever you can.
Measure the radiator core.
then find 2 fans (as large as possible) and follow their instructions. make sure you are pulling air into the hood and not pushing them out. (most efans are reversible, double check).
I used
Part No. 226116
16 inch fan (for drivers side)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%7CGRP2070____
and
Part No. 226112
12 inch fan (for passenger side)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...GRPCOOLAMS____
You will also need some crimps and a tool to cut, peel and crimp.
Advanced Auto parts has a complete fan assembly:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1253503154___
Part No. 75628
if you have a OEM radiator it should fit... again please confirm with some more research (measure it)
I can get this a lot cheaper.... Just not sure how much shipping would be.
Also you may want to follow this link I made a DIY on this:
G35 Sedan D.I.Y. Stainless Steel 16 Gauge Fan Shroud/Plate (E-FAN CONVERSION)
Ps, When controlling the temperature. I would suggest going to advanced auto, and asking them to bring out the OBD2 scanner. plug it into the obd port (by the parking brake)
and go to view data on the scanner (with the car on)... this will allow you to see the temperature with the scanner on a degree based level. otherwise you will be guessing where the fans are to engage.
I engage my fans @ 192 (on the scanner).
In actuality the fans are kicking on around 185-188 (at the radiator).
^^ some clips from the PM i sent so EVERY one can benefit from it.
Last edited by Eric@TCGMiami; 11-15-2010 at 02:37 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Eric@TCGMiami:
#8
11-15-2010, 02:45 AM
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...26500_inst.htm
NOTE: Please read the instructions carefully before installing this kit to ensure a safe and easy installation.
Kit contains:
1 Thermostatic Control Switch
1 Wiring Harness
1 Hardware Kit
Specifications:
Thermostatic Control Switch
Input Voltage: 10.0 to 16.0 VDC, 12.0 Nominal
Power Consumption: 2.6 Watts Nominal
Temperature Adjustment: 140°F to 220°F
Output Rating: 25 Amps Nominal
Installation
WARNING: The fan must be properly and securely attached to the vehicle before proceeding with the installation of the thermostatic switch. Vehicle should be turned completely off until the installation is completed.
1. Select a location for the thermostatic switch on a flat body panel in the engine compartment that will:
Permit positioning of the temperature sensor in the radiator fins near the inlet (upper) hose of the radiator.
Allow easy routing of the wires required to make all the connections shown on the wiring diagram.
Allow for access to the thermostat adjusting screw next to the terminals on the thermostatic switch.
Thermostatic switch will not interfere with other components.
2. Attach thermostatic switch to vehicle using the mounting screws.
3. As instructed below and illustrated on the wiring schematic, attach all wires to the correct terminals on the thermostatic switch thermostatic switch and to the vehicle components.
Ground negative wire of the fan motor to a secure, well grounded location on the vehicle.
Connect the black wire from the thermostatic switch ‘GROUND’ terminal to a secure grounded location on the vehicle. WARNING: Failure to connect the ground wires directly to the negative battery terminal will cause the eventual failure of the thermostatic switch.
Connect the orange wire (with 25 amp. fuse) from the thermostatic switch ‘FAN’ terminal to the positive wire on the fan motor. If you are running a second fan, connect the blue wire to the positive wire on the fan using a second inline 25-amp. fuse (not supplied).
On air-conditioned vehicles splice the green wire from the thermostatic switch ‘A/C CLUTCH’ terminal into the vehicle’s A/C clutch wire. On non-air conditioned vehicles, connect the green wire to a secure grounded location on the vehicle. WARNING: Failure to ground the green wire will result in polarization of the thermostatic switch in a permanently on or off position.
To disengage power to the fan when the ignition is off, regardless of the temperature of the radiator, connect the yellow wire from the thermostatic switch ‘IGN. COIL’ terminal to the positive terminal on the vehicle’s ignition coil. For vehicles with electronic ignition, locate a 12.0 VDC source that is switched on and off with the ignition key.
To provide the ability to run the fan after the vehicle ignition is off, connect the yellow wire from the thermostatic switch ‘IGN. COIL’ terminal to a 12.0 VDC source that is hot at all times.
AT THIS TIME. CONFIRM THAT ALL THE ABOVE STEPS HAVE BEEN FOLLOWED COMPLETELY AND THAT ALL CONNECTIONS ARE SECURE.
Connect the red wire from the thermostatic switch ’12 VOLTS’ terminal to the positive battery terminal.
WARNING: Failure to connect the red wire directly to the positive battery terminal will cause the eventual failure of the thermostatic switch.
4. Grasp the thermostatic switch temperature probe body (not the wire) and carefully insert the probe into the radiator fins near the inlet (upper) hose.
5. Start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature.
6. Adjust the fan kick-in/kick-out point by turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw located near the terminals on the top of the thermostat. The fan should be adjusted to kick-in when the coolant temperature goes above the normal range on the temperature gauge or about 210°F on most vehicles.
NOTE: Turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw counterclockwise will lower the kick-in/kick-out point. Turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw clockwise will raise the kick-in/kick-out point. The range is approximately 140°F to 220°F.
7. Drive the vehicle and adjust the thermostat temperature to suit your requirements.
WIRING SCHEMATIC
Troubleshooting
Probe: Carefully cut through the insulation on the gray wires on the thermal probe. With the ignition on, make contact across the wires. Relay should close and turn on fan(s). Testing probe: Cut the probe wires and strip back the insulation. Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance across the probe. It should be in the range of 40,000-50,000 (40K-50K) ohms at 70°-80°F. Resistance should decrease as temperature increases. Infinite resistance indicates an open circuit. Very low resistance indicates a short.
Control: With the ignition on, remove relay, check for +12 volts at terminal 85 on relay socket. Terminal 85 should be energized with the ignition on. If it is not 'hot', check yellow wire for +12 volts. If yellow wire is 'hot' and terminal 85 is not, then control box is defective.
Relay: Pull the relay partially out of the socket to allow access to relay terminals. With the ignition on, engine NOT running, connect a jumper wire from terminal 86 to ground. The relay should click (close), and the fan(s) should turn on. If the fan(s) do not turn on, then the relay may be defective. Check red power supply wire for +12 volts. Check wire connections from relay to fuse holder and fan(s).
Kit contains:
1 Thermostatic Control Switch
1 Wiring Harness
1 Hardware Kit
Specifications:
Thermostatic Control Switch
Input Voltage: 10.0 to 16.0 VDC, 12.0 Nominal
Power Consumption: 2.6 Watts Nominal
Temperature Adjustment: 140°F to 220°F
Output Rating: 25 Amps Nominal
Installation
WARNING: The fan must be properly and securely attached to the vehicle before proceeding with the installation of the thermostatic switch. Vehicle should be turned completely off until the installation is completed.
1. Select a location for the thermostatic switch on a flat body panel in the engine compartment that will:
Permit positioning of the temperature sensor in the radiator fins near the inlet (upper) hose of the radiator.
Allow easy routing of the wires required to make all the connections shown on the wiring diagram.
Allow for access to the thermostat adjusting screw next to the terminals on the thermostatic switch.
Thermostatic switch will not interfere with other components.
2. Attach thermostatic switch to vehicle using the mounting screws.
3. As instructed below and illustrated on the wiring schematic, attach all wires to the correct terminals on the thermostatic switch thermostatic switch and to the vehicle components.
Ground negative wire of the fan motor to a secure, well grounded location on the vehicle.
Connect the black wire from the thermostatic switch ‘GROUND’ terminal to a secure grounded location on the vehicle. WARNING: Failure to connect the ground wires directly to the negative battery terminal will cause the eventual failure of the thermostatic switch.
Connect the orange wire (with 25 amp. fuse) from the thermostatic switch ‘FAN’ terminal to the positive wire on the fan motor. If you are running a second fan, connect the blue wire to the positive wire on the fan using a second inline 25-amp. fuse (not supplied).
On air-conditioned vehicles splice the green wire from the thermostatic switch ‘A/C CLUTCH’ terminal into the vehicle’s A/C clutch wire. On non-air conditioned vehicles, connect the green wire to a secure grounded location on the vehicle. WARNING: Failure to ground the green wire will result in polarization of the thermostatic switch in a permanently on or off position.
To disengage power to the fan when the ignition is off, regardless of the temperature of the radiator, connect the yellow wire from the thermostatic switch ‘IGN. COIL’ terminal to the positive terminal on the vehicle’s ignition coil. For vehicles with electronic ignition, locate a 12.0 VDC source that is switched on and off with the ignition key.
To provide the ability to run the fan after the vehicle ignition is off, connect the yellow wire from the thermostatic switch ‘IGN. COIL’ terminal to a 12.0 VDC source that is hot at all times.
AT THIS TIME. CONFIRM THAT ALL THE ABOVE STEPS HAVE BEEN FOLLOWED COMPLETELY AND THAT ALL CONNECTIONS ARE SECURE.
Connect the red wire from the thermostatic switch ’12 VOLTS’ terminal to the positive battery terminal.
WARNING: Failure to connect the red wire directly to the positive battery terminal will cause the eventual failure of the thermostatic switch.
4. Grasp the thermostatic switch temperature probe body (not the wire) and carefully insert the probe into the radiator fins near the inlet (upper) hose.
5. Start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature.
6. Adjust the fan kick-in/kick-out point by turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw located near the terminals on the top of the thermostat. The fan should be adjusted to kick-in when the coolant temperature goes above the normal range on the temperature gauge or about 210°F on most vehicles.
NOTE: Turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw counterclockwise will lower the kick-in/kick-out point. Turning the thermostatic switch adjustment screw clockwise will raise the kick-in/kick-out point. The range is approximately 140°F to 220°F.
7. Drive the vehicle and adjust the thermostat temperature to suit your requirements.
WIRING SCHEMATIC
Troubleshooting
Probe: Carefully cut through the insulation on the gray wires on the thermal probe. With the ignition on, make contact across the wires. Relay should close and turn on fan(s). Testing probe: Cut the probe wires and strip back the insulation. Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance across the probe. It should be in the range of 40,000-50,000 (40K-50K) ohms at 70°-80°F. Resistance should decrease as temperature increases. Infinite resistance indicates an open circuit. Very low resistance indicates a short.
Control: With the ignition on, remove relay, check for +12 volts at terminal 85 on relay socket. Terminal 85 should be energized with the ignition on. If it is not 'hot', check yellow wire for +12 volts. If yellow wire is 'hot' and terminal 85 is not, then control box is defective.
Relay: Pull the relay partially out of the socket to allow access to relay terminals. With the ignition on, engine NOT running, connect a jumper wire from terminal 86 to ground. The relay should click (close), and the fan(s) should turn on. If the fan(s) do not turn on, then the relay may be defective. Check red power supply wire for +12 volts. Check wire connections from relay to fuse holder and fan(s).
#9
11-15-2010, 02:36 PM
Doesn't it make more sense to add a single e-fan rather than two? The 03 already has a back-up e-fan on the driver's side. My thought would be to not touch that one at all because it's an OEM part and you know it will come on if needed. By removing it, you're taking on some risk in that your assuming all the aftermarket parts you're installing will be reliable in their operation.
Overall, the conversion looks relatively cheap and simple to install. It would be nice for somone to actually do a picture by picture DIY. In all these years, I don't anyone has ever posted a picture of these aftermarket e-fans installed on an 03.
Overall, the conversion looks relatively cheap and simple to install. It would be nice for somone to actually do a picture by picture DIY. In all these years, I don't anyone has ever posted a picture of these aftermarket e-fans installed on an 03.
#10
11-15-2010, 02:41 PM
I just recently bought an FI kit that cannot be installed without removal of the Mechanical fan the the early 2003 model sedans have. I searched google and g35driver for what to do about efan installs but only found websites for parts. I have no idea how to do the wiring for the install so if anyone can help I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#11
11-15-2010, 03:44 PM
Doesn't it make more sense to add a single e-fan rather than two? The 03 already has a back-up e-fan on the driver's side. My thought would be to not touch that one at all because it's an OEM part and you know it will come on if needed. By removing it, you're taking on some risk in that your assuming all the aftermarket parts you're installing will be reliable in their operation.
Overall, the conversion looks relatively cheap and simple to install. It would be nice for somone to actually do a picture by picture DIY. In all these years, I don't anyone has ever posted a picture of these aftermarket e-fans installed on an 03.
Overall, the conversion looks relatively cheap and simple to install. It would be nice for somone to actually do a picture by picture DIY. In all these years, I don't anyone has ever posted a picture of these aftermarket e-fans installed on an 03.
I noted on the obd scanner that 1 fan alone is not enough to drop temps... it only holds the temps in place. Hence why I went with 2 fans and left the aux fan in place as an emergency fan controlled by the oem ecu.
#12
11-05-2014, 04:43 AM
I know this is a very old thread, but I am looking for help on installing my Mishimoto slim fan on my 03 g35 sedan. I really want it to be simple. I don't have A/C anymore. I don't want it on a rely or anything. All i want is to have the e-fans hooked up to both come on and turn off at the same time at 100% working capacity (since they are one speed already) by a switch that i will have in the center console for it. I plan on tracking this car so I want to be able to control the idle temp by having it on while around town or in traffic at all times to make sure i run cool enough but can turn it off completely while driving around on freeways, in cool temps or on the track. Would I simply just hook up the positives to each other from both fans, dont even use the A/C control wires. Would I even need to use the ignition on wire (yellow with mishimoto) at all and just split the power wire that goes from the fans to the battery and put my switch in there? I think this is pretty simple but since I haven't done much wiring i want to make sure I get this correct and not screw it up..I also want to make sure I have it wired so that It's not a pusher and is wired to be a puller (fans hooked up behind pulling air through as apposed to fans mounted in front and pushing air through it.
Thanks for any help. Really wanna get this hooked up ASAP. Hope someone is still around on this thread.
Thanks for any help. Really wanna get this hooked up ASAP. Hope someone is still around on this thread.
#13
11-05-2014, 05:52 PM
Parts needed
E Fans
thermostat controller discount auto part number 226204
Fuse and fuse holder
Silicone/sealant
16 gauge cable 3.5 to 4 feet (2) cables.
Continous Duty Solenoid
http://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-80AMP-12V/dp/B0050I94XG
4 gauge cable with end connectors 6 inches or less.
Fuse or circuit breaker... circuit breaker is better. (Marine style)
http://crimpsupply.com/80-amp-surface-mount-circuit-breakers.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAsueiBRCT8YOM4PDElsYBEi QAaiI4IIonRuBCRWxGTIUEDBxXA4hwNq2fvCutYGR8Y7kJuYga Ar6B8P8HAQ
You can find them cheaper at marine stores like west marine or such or even amazon..
Goal =
Clean install, thermostatic controlled on and off automatically.
Location of all electronics will be in your battery box.
Snip the thermometer with enough space to create an extension. Using your 16 gauge cables. You'll extend the cables.... you can push the rod of the thermometer into the radiator and using their included bracket hold it in place or use the fan housing to provide the holding placement.
The ideal place to put it is directly in the center per my honest opinion. Because too high and you'll trigger false turn on and offs, too low and fans stay on forever as it has to cool a larger volume of temperature.
The longer your fans are on the less power your engine has. So you'll in essence destroy the advantage of efans by having them on too long.
The solenoid will power the fans. From the circuit breaker and the circuit breaker goes from the battery..
The signal to turn on the solenoid will come from the 226204 controller.
Using this setup you won't have any issues. .. ever...
Get the silicone sealant and ariund the 226204 relay you'll apply it to create a watertight seal as some moisture does get to this area.
Be sure to have the relay upside down to avoid water seeping into the lower housing.
Signal can be used from the harness coming into the battery box.
Install a fuse between battery and 226204 power
Yellow is signal
Orange is power to fan but you wont use it for the fans you'll use it for the solenoid signal.
If any questions 3053002984 eric
It'll take you 1 hour tops to make everything happen.
To prorgram you can do 1 or two things..
best way...
obd scanner and look at temps.
I've found that opening my setup at 202 degrees works best for me.
I have a pwr radiator and 2 spal 14 inch ap71 fans. The radiator is so large that you have to remember physics come into play (equal opposite reaction)
It takes longer to heat up and thus takes longer to cool down.
Smaller radiator will mean the exact opposite.
Now if you don't have a scanner that gives you live view of data then you can use the cars auxiliary fan as a reference.
That fan turns on at 203 regardless of ac on or off. Ac should be off. Being that you're not using it youll be fine.
So turn the dial on the 226204 until the fans kick on. Move slowly and precisely..
And try to get the fans to turn on just prior to the aux fan turning on.
You can run both fans to the solenoid it'll handle the duty as its 80plus amps.
Again if I can help with anything else call me.
E Fans
thermostat controller discount auto part number 226204
Fuse and fuse holder
Silicone/sealant
16 gauge cable 3.5 to 4 feet (2) cables.
Continous Duty Solenoid
http://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-80AMP-12V/dp/B0050I94XG
4 gauge cable with end connectors 6 inches or less.
Fuse or circuit breaker... circuit breaker is better. (Marine style)
http://crimpsupply.com/80-amp-surface-mount-circuit-breakers.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAsueiBRCT8YOM4PDElsYBEi QAaiI4IIonRuBCRWxGTIUEDBxXA4hwNq2fvCutYGR8Y7kJuYga Ar6B8P8HAQ
You can find them cheaper at marine stores like west marine or such or even amazon..
Goal =
Clean install, thermostatic controlled on and off automatically.
Location of all electronics will be in your battery box.
Snip the thermometer with enough space to create an extension. Using your 16 gauge cables. You'll extend the cables.... you can push the rod of the thermometer into the radiator and using their included bracket hold it in place or use the fan housing to provide the holding placement.
The ideal place to put it is directly in the center per my honest opinion. Because too high and you'll trigger false turn on and offs, too low and fans stay on forever as it has to cool a larger volume of temperature.
The longer your fans are on the less power your engine has. So you'll in essence destroy the advantage of efans by having them on too long.
The solenoid will power the fans. From the circuit breaker and the circuit breaker goes from the battery..
The signal to turn on the solenoid will come from the 226204 controller.
Using this setup you won't have any issues. .. ever...
Get the silicone sealant and ariund the 226204 relay you'll apply it to create a watertight seal as some moisture does get to this area.
Be sure to have the relay upside down to avoid water seeping into the lower housing.
Signal can be used from the harness coming into the battery box.
Install a fuse between battery and 226204 power
Yellow is signal
Orange is power to fan but you wont use it for the fans you'll use it for the solenoid signal.
If any questions 3053002984 eric
It'll take you 1 hour tops to make everything happen.
To prorgram you can do 1 or two things..
best way...
obd scanner and look at temps.
I've found that opening my setup at 202 degrees works best for me.
I have a pwr radiator and 2 spal 14 inch ap71 fans. The radiator is so large that you have to remember physics come into play (equal opposite reaction)
It takes longer to heat up and thus takes longer to cool down.
Smaller radiator will mean the exact opposite.
Now if you don't have a scanner that gives you live view of data then you can use the cars auxiliary fan as a reference.
That fan turns on at 203 regardless of ac on or off. Ac should be off. Being that you're not using it youll be fine.
So turn the dial on the 226204 until the fans kick on. Move slowly and precisely..
And try to get the fans to turn on just prior to the aux fan turning on.
You can run both fans to the solenoid it'll handle the duty as its 80plus amps.
Again if I can help with anything else call me.
The following 4 users liked this post by Eric@TCGMiami:
#14
08-13-2015, 11:14 AM
Eric or anyone
Know where wiring diagram for factory harness showing all eight wires for cooling fans?
I have
Blue
yellow
black
white
on one harness and
black
red
black/white
yellow/red on the other.
Trying to figure out how to wire relays to handle 14' spal fans.
I have cross referenced multiple threads on driver and my350z but none seem to tell me which ones can be used to trigger relay and which are tied into ignition.
I'm obviously not an electrical wiz, to say the least.
Thanks,
George
Know where wiring diagram for factory harness showing all eight wires for cooling fans?
I have
Blue
yellow
black
white
on one harness and
black
red
black/white
yellow/red on the other.
Trying to figure out how to wire relays to handle 14' spal fans.
I have cross referenced multiple threads on driver and my350z but none seem to tell me which ones can be used to trigger relay and which are tied into ignition.
I'm obviously not an electrical wiz, to say the least.
Thanks,
George
#15
08-17-2015, 02:17 PM
