My reason for asking is quite simple. You don't just change radiators every year. You obviously have something else causing this problem. Either the fan clutch is not working correctly, or you have something causing too much pressure causing the radiator(s) to fail. It's quite possible that the cap can be stuck closed and making too much pressure for the end tanks.

 

The radiator was replaced a year ago after I hit a deer.

I don't know what a fan clutch is, but thought it was only on the 2003s, I have a 2004.5. I haven't checked temperatures other than on the dashboard where the needle is always in the middle.

Changed the thermostat about six months ago. I thought the thermostat was causing no heat at idle, but all I had to do was bleed the coolant lines.

 

fan clutch = what holds the mechanical fan on the pulley and engages it

you have electric fans not mechanical.

are you using a stock radiator cap?

 

OK.

Yes, stock radiator cap. I'm going to look at my car in a little bit and report back.

 

Reservoir, overfill hose, and radiator cap were not wet. But this is what I found:

 

My car recently start doing the same thing. Its blow cold air at idle n over heating at times. I tried bleeding out the air with this method.
1 start up car and have the heater blowing @ 90* MAX (in this point its blowing cold air bt the temp needle is setting mid way)
2 rev it to 2000rpm heater is blowing hot air, go out to bleed it, come set in the car and the heater is now blowing cold air again.
3 repeat it which seems endless; with the same results...

What could b the problem...help please.

 

My car recently start doing the same thing. Its blow cold air at idle n over heating at times. I tried bleeding out the air with this method.
1 start up car and have the heater blowing @ 90* MAX (in this point its blowing cold air bt the temp needle is setting mid way)
2 rev it to 2000rpm heater is blowing hot air, go out to bleed it, come set in the car and the heater is now blowing cold air again.
3 repeat it which seems endless; with the same results...

What could b the problem...help please.

 

 

Are you sure all the air is out? Could be your thermostat.

 

I'm nt sure..let me get this right; I'm i supposed to rev it to 4k rpm with the bleeder screw open or closed?
Yea Tstat was my first guess and replaced it yesterday bt woke up to this same problem.

 

4k and leave it closed, jump out of the car and slowly open the bleeding screw until a little coolant drips out. I had to do that several times!

 

So everyone who has helping me so far - Does it look like I need to replace the radiator? What radiator would you recommend? Looking for quality at a low price.

 

From personal experience, I have learned that the bleeder screw bleeding method ONLY works when the system has pressure. Under initial startup, your engine gets hotter quicker than what your radiator will. So the system will not be pressurized enough to remove the trapped air.

So drive for a bit, and then try bleeding the air out. REMEMBER the system is under pressure so don't fully remove the screw, just enough to allow air bubbles to come out once it's a solid stream of fluid seal it and drive or let it sit a bit then go again. It's a bit painstaking but it works.

 

End Tanks are leaking.


IMHO, you need a new radiator.

This time buy a radiator for the MANUAL... the two tubes sticking out of the lower end tanks signify that it was for an Automatic. (no big deal) but just less clutter in the way.

Additionally, begin to investigate: WHY?

Why do you continue to replace radiators? Do you have too much pressure in the system? Is the thermostat sticking?

 

Your belts must be squeaking like hell.