!! Stripped Cat Bolt !!
Tried to install my RTP's today. We stripped the passenger's side famous evil top bolt that is accessed through the engine bay.
I have all the proper tools and extensions. I used 1/2" breaker bar with a lot of 1/2" extensions and a 14mm 6-head socket and stripped the bolt. Didn't get to loosen it at all. Went to Sears and bought a extract bolt-kit and managed to loosen it about 1/4 turn. Then the bolt stripped some more.
Then I thought maybe we should just break the head of the bolt by over-tightening it. I tightened it about 1/4 then stopped because I wasn't sure if this was a good idea or not.
I've sprayed this bolt with PB blaster over a few days and it's still giving me trouble.
At this point the bolt is tightened normally and is stripped counter-clockwise.
What are my options? After spending all this money on tools and the time I put into it I don't really want to take it to a shop. I can do the install in less than an hour if it weren't for these two top bolts.
I've broken it down to two options:
1. Drive the car around and let the bolt heat-up then try to tighten and break the head of the bolt. (Is this safe? Will the flanges bend?)
2. Take it to a shop and let them blow-torch and remove the bolt. (Can the blow-torch reach the bolt?)
Any suggestions or feedback is appreciated!
Thanks
I have all the proper tools and extensions. I used 1/2" breaker bar with a lot of 1/2" extensions and a 14mm 6-head socket and stripped the bolt. Didn't get to loosen it at all. Went to Sears and bought a extract bolt-kit and managed to loosen it about 1/4 turn. Then the bolt stripped some more.
Then I thought maybe we should just break the head of the bolt by over-tightening it. I tightened it about 1/4 then stopped because I wasn't sure if this was a good idea or not.
I've sprayed this bolt with PB blaster over a few days and it's still giving me trouble.
At this point the bolt is tightened normally and is stripped counter-clockwise.
What are my options? After spending all this money on tools and the time I put into it I don't really want to take it to a shop. I can do the install in less than an hour if it weren't for these two top bolts.
I've broken it down to two options:
1. Drive the car around and let the bolt heat-up then try to tighten and break the head of the bolt. (Is this safe? Will the flanges bend?)
2. Take it to a shop and let them blow-torch and remove the bolt. (Can the blow-torch reach the bolt?)
Any suggestions or feedback is appreciated!
Thanks
Keep trying with the extractors. and fyi, it's a nut not a bolt. I wouldn't over tighten it, nut and stud would act different than a bolt and hole. I had to take one of those stripped bolt removers, put it on the extensions, and hammer it on, then it worked mint.
itll never get hot enough simply by driving it around. youll need that sumabish to be glowing red. def gonna need a torch. another option is cut the nut off carefully and retap the stud. ive had to do it a few times. or last resort,cut the stud off, drill the rest out (suckkkkksssssssss) and then use a nut and bolt to hold cat on.
If the car is an 07 it is a bolt and not a nut with a stud. A well known mechanic told me that they changed it from a stud to a bolt and it always gives him problems when he removes them. I have an 03 and none of the bolts gave me any problems.
Yes, I believe wanagofaster is right..
A lot of members have broken their head bolts and the cats just came off.
I'm assuming I won't have any issues tightening the bolt to try to break off the head of the bolt?
A lot of members have broken their head bolts and the cats just came off.
I'm assuming I won't have any issues tightening the bolt to try to break off the head of the bolt?
I wish I had some suggestions on how to get that bolt out but my mechanic didnt specify. Id say heat is your best friend and if all else fails either drill out the bolt or cut off the nut with a grinder
Cut the nut and stud off with a sawzall, drill out the remaining portion of the stud, and use a new nut and bolt (preferably something that can handle heat and rust).
Next time use air tools. The explosive racheting effect is what makes them effective in breaking the rust loose while not applying constant torque. Using a breaker bar applies constant torque and increases the chances of cross-threading on rusty or dirty threads.
Next time use air tools. The explosive racheting effect is what makes them effective in breaking the rust loose while not applying constant torque. Using a breaker bar applies constant torque and increases the chances of cross-threading on rusty or dirty threads.
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Ended up trying to break the bolt by over-tightening it... Stripped the bolt some more...
Seems like the only way to remove it now is to cut the top head bolt somehow...
Any suggestions?
Seems like the only way to remove it now is to cut the top head bolt somehow...
Any suggestions?
Last time I removed my cats I removed the front wheels and access the nut thru the wheel well! Try that it may be easier to get a dremel or a torch thru there? But I can't remember how much room there is... Let me know how it goes!
I have the same issue going on, I just haven't started at the top ones yet. I did the lazy thing and took it to my local hillbilly exhaust shop and had them try to burn out the stock bolts. When they looked at the front/top they said it wasn't possible to get at them with their torch. My plan is to break the stud off and drive it back down to the muffler shop(open manifolds). After that, have them torch it out and happiness should be found.
I had this happen when installing the Magnaflow crossover at my muffler shop. We heated it up and unscrewed it, quick and easy. Then I replaced every nut/bolt from the manifold back, great insurance it won't happen again soon....
Gary

Gary
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