6 speed swap, U1000 code, popping fuse
6 speed swap, U1000 code, popping fuse
Well heres a quick background of my situation. I completed an auto to manual transmission swap. I replaced the engine BAY harness, not the engine harness. The harness I replaced connects to the headlights, radiator fans, fuse boxes, clutch, brake and gas pedals etc. I made sure all 3 grounding points on this harness are clean and tight in the original locations. Since I did NOT replace the engine harness, I did a nuetral safety bypass. (tapped into tcm, ran wire to nuetral safety switch, then ran a wire to a ground). By doing this, I left one of the auto transmission connections un-touched/ un-used (at check light stays on). I also placed the battery in the trunk. The original negative terminal is grounded to the firewall. I made sure to clean the paint so that the ground is touching bare metal. I did the same with the new negative cable in the trunk. So quick review of the only ground cables I messed with...
1) Engine Bay Harness- 3 grounds. Checked for cleanliness and tightness
2) Battery Grounds- 2 grounds. Original is now grounded to the fire wire with a cleaned/ bare metal location. Same with new ground in the trunk
3) Nuetral safety Switch- 1 ground. Friend did the ground connection while I was doing other things so I am un- aware if its connection is with bare metal.
Now here's my dilemma. I am throwing a U1000 code. (can message error). Basically, the computers talk to one another and there is a disruption some where in the system. I was told a very likely and common cause to this is a bad ground. My brake lights and blinkers work just fine, but when my running lights turn on at night with my head lights... I keep popping a fuse. But my brake lights and blinkers remain to work.
Here's my hunch to this situation.
1) Not a clean/ good enough ground on the neutral safety switch
2) Since I did not replace the engine harness, I have no reverse lights for the time being... I dont know why this would cause the running lights to pop a fuse but just throwing it out there
3) Original ground on battery needs to be grounded to battery??
4) Since the auto transmission connection is not in use...
If anyone can give me any insight or a solution to this, I would greatly appreciate it
1) Engine Bay Harness- 3 grounds. Checked for cleanliness and tightness
2) Battery Grounds- 2 grounds. Original is now grounded to the fire wire with a cleaned/ bare metal location. Same with new ground in the trunk
3) Nuetral safety Switch- 1 ground. Friend did the ground connection while I was doing other things so I am un- aware if its connection is with bare metal.
Now here's my dilemma. I am throwing a U1000 code. (can message error). Basically, the computers talk to one another and there is a disruption some where in the system. I was told a very likely and common cause to this is a bad ground. My brake lights and blinkers work just fine, but when my running lights turn on at night with my head lights... I keep popping a fuse. But my brake lights and blinkers remain to work.
Here's my hunch to this situation.
1) Not a clean/ good enough ground on the neutral safety switch
2) Since I did not replace the engine harness, I have no reverse lights for the time being... I dont know why this would cause the running lights to pop a fuse but just throwing it out there
3) Original ground on battery needs to be grounded to battery??
4) Since the auto transmission connection is not in use...
If anyone can give me any insight or a solution to this, I would greatly appreciate it
I am wrapping up my auto to 6spd conversion, however I replace the engine harness and the engine bay harness. Everything seems to work fine, maybe you should replace the engine harness. what ecu are you running now?
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yosip1115
The G-Spot
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Aug 20, 2015 10:30 PM




